Rs4Racer

Hey guys Im repainting my engine bay but I dont know what kind of paint to use, what kind of primer and such do I need? I need to use spray cans becouse I dont know how to setup or use the air brush paint thing.

Heres a picture of an area Ive prepped to be painted, Should I prime it now or wait and strip down the rest first?

banzaitoyota

get some : "zero rust" aerosol. Unless you have a svere rust probleb do not srip the bay down to bare metal.

banzaitoyota

Get a conversion coating, such as OSPHO, on there ASAP! You are already starting to rust!!!

Rs4Racer

Well right now there is no rust on there but there was a lil bit before but I sanded it all off. I dont belive in that rust to metal stuff from my experience it doesnt work. The area that is stripped was basically already stripped before from the brake fluid leaking down there.... what should I prime it with I read somewhere that I need some high temp primer?

As for the rest of the engine bay should I just strip it down to primer and then re paint it?

banzaitoyota

Go to www.zerorust.com
or
www.paintucation.com check out the results with zerorust.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND products that do not work!

SilverT2

Rust converter works well. A better way to do it would to sand, apply rust prevenitve. sand, primer, paint. Rustolem or Dupilcolor would work well.

Rs4Racer

Ok heres the deal There is no rust. It has all been sanded off. (what little there was) I just need to know what I should paint it with. Is there a certain type of primer that I should use or is primer just primer?

SilverT2

Any kind of primer would work well. If your concerned with heat, then get some high temp spray.

banzaitoyota

RS4Ricer: Even if you have sanded off all of the vivisible rust, there is still iron oxide present. You need to convert the non-visible stuff, with OSPHO or some other conversion, suraface prep solution. OF course I don't know what the **** I am talking about, and neither does PPG, Sikkens, Sherwin-Williams, Dupont or any other PAINT or Body Shop. READ A ******* PREP SHEET FOR A BARE METAL BODY REPAIR YOU HARD-HEADED MORON. If you just throw some off the shelf consumer grade primer on there it wont last a year!. Do it right or DONT **** WITH IT. Rou are making it easier for corrosion to attack your car. You are doing more harm then good.

banzaitoyota

From PPG Product Info Sheet:
DZL Primer Surfacers Form P-127 (8/91)

Directions For Use:
Preperation:
Prepare Surface by cleaning thoroughly with DX 330 Acryli-clean Wax and Grease Remover or DX- 380 Low VOC Cleaner. Condition the bare metal with the APPROPIATE PPG METAL CLEANING AND CONDITIONING SYSTEM.

That not enough info? Try this:
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase...=0&DefectId=88

Here is more. young Grasshopper!
The paint lifts from its underlying surface in smooth flakes. These flakes may be easily broken, with a tendency for the edges to peel away from the surface.



Cause
Loss of adhesion between a layer of paint and its underlying surface. This may be caused by:

a) Contamination of the underlying surface by wax, grease, silicone, oil, release agents, water, corrosion or soap.

b) Incorrect or non-use of metal conditioner on steel or aluminium surfaces.

c) Inadequate keying of the surface.

d) Surface too hot or too cold when sprayed.

e) Use of the wrong primer process, primer not properly dry.

f) Incorrect viscosity of paint, use of wrong or poor quality thinner, compressed air pressure too high.

g) Paint film applied too thickly.

h) Build up of stress between two adjacent layers of paint.


Prevention
a) Ensure that the surface to be painted is scrupulously clean. Always dry the surface with clean cloths.

b) Always use the correct metal conditioner on steel or aluminium surfaces. Commence spraying within 30 minutes of preparation to avoid the onset of corrosion.

c) Sand the surface properly before spraying, taking care to remove all sanding dust.

d) Ensure that the surface is within the recommended temperature range during spraying and drying.

e) Use the correct primer process, and ensure that the primer is properly dry before continuing painting.

f) Thin the paint to the correct viscosity, using only recommended thinner. Set compressed air pressure as low as possible consistent with proper atomisation.

g) Apply paint in thin, wet layers.

h) Use a range of products by a single paint manufacturer

Rs4Racer

I didnt know that rust forms out of nowhere, I was under the impression that if you keep it out of the weather and dry that it wouldnt rust.

Since rust will form out of nowhere I took a better look at the sites you posted. Looking at the zerorust page it says that you dont need to top coat it and if you want it glossy to just put clear coat over the zero rust.

So my plan Is to get some zero rust in red oxide and black, and then all that is needed is clear coat. Put down a layer of red oxide and then cover it up with black until I cannot see the red anymore, and then some layers of their crystal coat. (of course clean the area before spraying)

I have some questions though.

How much paint will I need for either spraycan or for an airgun? (red oxide, black, crystal coat)

Should I use their spraycans or should I use an airgun? I believe I have everything to use an airgun but I have never used one before. Do you have any tips for a total newb to the airgun?

chris-reedtn

during school, i found that even after you sand it down and metal wash it, leave it over night, the moisture in the air, and i mean in a closed room, it will begin to rust.

-Chris

Rs4Racer

Well I thought that if you just kept it dry that it wouldnt rust. So I went out today to see if any rust had started to form and so far there is none.

schexy1

metal is always oxidizing. seconds after you remove it, it starts to form again. Moisture does not cause oxidation, it only speeds up the process.

I wouldn't remove any rust until I were ready to primer it.

banzaitoyota

For the area you have shown, get 2 rattle cans of zero rust and some wash prep. Another option is a Preval Sprayer, its a bottle you mix paint it and you screw a pressurrized sprayer on top.

http://www.prevalspraygun.com/

WK Irish

Rs4racer:
Though you've received lots of input from your fellow forum members, I'd like to throw out an idea or two for your consideration.
Flash Rust starts immediately when steel is exposed to oxygen! As was mentioned, moisture speeds up the formation of iron oxide because it enhances the chemical reaction that "rusting" actually is.
Now, as to your present predicament: DIYer's, especially those with limited resources and experience (that's not intended to be a slam - we all have to make a start somewhere!) that our Prep-Step is an ideal way to help you clean up, degrease and prep steel whether bare or still covered with some paint PLUS it forestalls flash rust development AND promotes paint adhesion. It's use allows you to stage your prep work and doing so helps with scheduling your paint job - regardless of what paint you use. It's inexpensive and you can catch run off with a catch basin and reuse it over and over again until it's too contaminated to do so.
As was suggested, a couple of 12 ozs rattle cans of ZR would probably be enough, but you may want to get a couple spares as I'm certain you'll find more areas you will want to protect.
HTH
WK Irish
See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com

banzaitoyota

WK, If you will notice, that is what I have said from the start!

Rs4Racer

Thanks I have a paint spray gun similar to the one in the picture, except the tank on mine is probable about 1.5 liters.

How much paint will I need for either spraycan or for an airgun? (red oxide, black, crystal coat)

banzaitoyota

Buy a qt of zerorust and 1.5Lbs prep step

Rs4Racer

Thanks banzai, is that enuf to paint the whole engine bay?

banzaitoyota

Yep. I would then coat with A regular Primer as requires and Topcaot. But hey I am really ****-retentive about paint.