what the hell is a burned up rotor???
 

ok so... this is an update from the last post i did weeks ago.

i finally got my car back to the shop thanks to Lucky7racing. ok so....

theyre telling me that my rotors burned up because it got too hot?

that sounds kind of sketchy dont you think? has anyone here ever heard of a burned up rotor? because rotarys do get pretty hot and i dont think rotors would be in an engine if they just burned up like that....

i think its something at their fault.... i mean i only had the car for 1 week literally... 400 miles on it and it failed.

i invested 4500 dollars and this is what i get?

i will ask for a little bit more of a specific explanation to what the owner means soon...

he said my housings need to be lapped or resurfaced. one of those 2 words. now why would i need that. they should have inspected everything to be within regulation before putting it into my car right?

they fucked me...

and everything else is good. like apex seals and even the cooling system. so im questioning this situation...

lmk what you think. or what i should do.

i dont know much about rebuilding rotaries, so i can't help you with your issue.

i'm just curious what work they previously performed. i'm also curious as to how this eventually turns out as lucky7 is one of the shops i am considering for a rebuild.

best of luck!

pictures?

maybe they used a different terminology. having a lean condition will produce hotter combustion temperatures and essentially burn up the engine.

i think they meant rotor housings , if th spark and combustion is continually too hot it can warp th housings enough to cause damag to apex seals . i believe an dont quote me the most prone spots are the spark plug holes. you pretty much need a new engine dude

If the engine is properly cooled and hasn't been overheated, then that should be a non issue. Highly doubtful at least.

I think Burrito got fucked. Number one, if a motor fails after 400 miles, then the SHOP should be footing the bill. If a shop was not going to carry any warranty on the engine they built, I'd be suspect before I even let them touch the car, and they wouldn't have touched the car. Number two, as Burrito said, if the housings and such had been clearanced properly in the first place, why do they all of the sudden need resurfacing? I wouldn't resurface a housing anyway, because of the VERY thin nitride treatment on them. Another point, why the hell would you lap a surface that needs to hold oil? Mirror finishes don't hold oil very well, thus why cylinder bores are honed (yes, it is a wankel, but the theory still applies).

Personally, I'd be lighting a fire under someones ass right now.

hey i said dont quote me, ha . but in all actuality you said it failed, does it shudder will it start what are its running or starting symptoms , does it feel a great loss in power

In the event I didn't quote you, nothing could be learned. :)

When rebuilding any rotary engine. The side housing,if engine life is your concern. Should be lapped before rebuilding. Its not about making it shinny or mirror like, lapping it will make sure the surface is even. Which is very important for rotary engine. as long as there is enough material on it. (cuz you should not remove more than 0.02 inches of material)

obviously the shop fucked it up. they probably never checked the side housing's clearance.

ok so they did give me a warranty it was a 1 year.

but the problem is that they didnt give it to me in written words, it was just thier words. i wasnt even abusing the car. i was just crusing at 60Mph. and then bam it hit... they also removed all of my emissions components when i didnt ask them and my BOV was not recirculated to my intake and some vacuum ports were left open. it was just a mess..... i didnt really know if it was normal untill one of my friends was looking at it and i was like ah... i see...

so i think ima have to take these fools to court or something because i invested way too much money to now not have a car at all. and yeah i dont think they checked the side iron clearance.thats what they sent me a picture of. i will get the 2 pics that he sent me and post them up.

they said i needed new rotors as well because it got too hot. the car didnt even over heat. the temp gauge was a quarter before hitting over heat.

in any case if my clutch fan went out the car would have been a little over operating temp and when i got the car the operating temperature was a quarter above cold.

pretty stupid reason.... but im planning on going to check out everything in person soon.

thanks.

The shop should be taking care of the issue and not giving you B.S. excuses.

When you get a more specific answer, please also ask why it is not their fault that the engine failed, as I would love to hear this explanation.

holy shit that sounds like bs.....sorry for the language but stuff like this makes me so mad. i am a mechanic and pride myself in doing the best job i can....they clearly did not. keep us updated

Please post the pictures. Sounds like you are getting jerked around for sure, sorry to hear that. If they did something wrong stick it to them and make them make it right, if they get away with it they'll just keep doing it to others.

Makes me mad also, stuff like that is what gives rotary engines a bad reputation, which in turn is bad for us all (depreciates resale value, etc). Has anyone else had any bad experiences with the same builder?

$4500.00 how did that break down?

$1000.00 to pull it
$1000.00 to rebuild it
$1500.00 for the rebuild kit
$1000.00 to reinstall it
$4500.00

quick edit on your math there, it was 5000 total lol :D

Sorry to hear that... Keep us posted on what happens.

i always thought lucky 7 were good guys..... i never would have thought they would do someone in our rotary fam like that.. sounds highly unlikely of them

here is the link to the other post i did if any of yall wanna check it out.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...1#post10027125

Dude, I'm sorry but a reputable company like Lucky7 isn't going to screw over your motor and cut corners in a build especially if it is going to cost them money to fix something that could go wrong in the future. They listed all the issues with the car when they got it.

Theirs only a couple things that could have really happened here:
1. It legitimately blew up
2. You did a WOT pull on the highway to try it out and it popped (you claimed doing 60 when it died)
3. It was running funny during break in and you tried to fix it buy unplugging the TPS? Putting wrong plugs in it? and taking off the downpipe? causing it to lean out real bad and destroy the rotors and probably housings instead of calling fris/tony and telling them.

On top of everything, you tampered with it, which is usually the #1 rule of most warranties. Your lucky their even looking at it after seeing that you tampered with it.

No offense, but you tell a different story than your blown up motor does. Builders can tell how you drive from what they see in the motor. It's really easy with rotaries.

nope. . .
 

it LEGITAMENTLY blew up. i wouldnt do a WOT run i know what i needed to be doing because tony told me. and other people as well including racing beats write up and rotary resurrections write up on breaking an engine in.my friend (justinsfdpoweredfc) ALSO told me on how to drive it and he has like 30g's invested into his car and im pretty sure he wouldnt give me some BS information. he is on my friends list look for him. the TPS was already unplugged AFTER the car died and i replaced the plugs AFTER the car died and the downpipe was removed AFTER the car died. and they werent the wrong plugs i replaced them AFTER the car was dead. i didnt tamper with one thing. and when i got the car the o2 sensor wasnt hooked up i had to hook it up myself. so chill. you dont even know.

i dont see y every one here can talk so much shit, were u there? no did u build it? no? then y the negativity? i know for a fact that the o2 sensor wasnt hooked when it left the shop. and it shouldnt just pop after 400miles, if you guys are just gonna talk shit then y even bother postin? it sounds to me like there was a fault in the assembly, cuz y else would it just pop? ive never seen a rotary just pop like that under normal break in conditions. and all that was changed or removed was after it died, wouldnt you want to check shit out if ur stuck on the side of the road and its ur only ride??? i dont see why its turned into a damn bitch fest cuz someones car blew up, just look at it and get it fixed, and thats to you lucky7, this is bullshit!! its not that hard to figure out a problem with these engines, like theres so much that you have to go threw. if ur "reputable shop" then y the bullshit? just give a strait answer and get it over with. you think blamin a customer is gonna help your reputation out? i doubt it, your shop is there to work on these cars not bitch at its customers.

If everyone reads the same thread in the west forums you'll find that lil red with Lucky7 posted this:

Funny story.

When we got the car back at the shop. We noticed right away the car had been tampered with. In our warranty it states that if ANYTHING goes wrong we must check it out and take it apart (most shops have the same warranty). How can we warranty your engine if you worked on it yourself?

Things we noticed:
Unplugged TPS
Top mount intercooler bolts missing
downpipe removed
leading spark plugs were not the correct plugs for the car (car left with a set of new ngk stock plugs)
and the funniest of all PAPER (paper towel, napkin, i dunno exactly what it is) stuck in the intake ports, in the manifold, even in the block when we took it apart. But how did that paper get in there? It's still a mystery, because he has no idea how the paper got in there. LOL The car would not drive from our shop to wherever he drove it to with paper stuck in the ports. It would not run, and/or would be shredded to pieces in seconds, anyone knows that.

He also claims he was cruising his car and it overheated. We did a coolant system pressure test. The engine held good pressure without any pressure drop. Also when taken apart the viton coolant seals are in perfect condition.

The reason the irons will need to be resurfaced is because of the damage. Not because the motor was assembled with bad parts. So don't say something like that if you don't know.

I'm not connected to this problem, but EFF[[Buhrrito]]CEE left this and a few other important things out of his complaints. Suggesting the shop put worn parts together in a rebuild that now need to be lapped is alot different from the shop saying paper got sucked through the engine and that is the reason they need to be lapped.

it would be funny if the paper thats what found was the written warranty by lucky7 LOL but lucky7 is right on this if you got your car worked on by them and they gave you a warranty and for any reason your car breaks down and most likely an engine related problem then i would have just called AAA to tow me to the shop so they can work on it right away and get it resolved. then whats the whole point of giving a warranty right? and your warranty should have been voided if you did tamper with it in any way or form after it broke down on youi was like what the fuck!!!!

:facepalm3:

For future reference, you can't expect anybody to honor a warranty if you screw with the item. This goes for engines, electronics, and anything else.

this speaks leagues to me, as i've seen what a small over heat does these seals, vs a medium overheat, and an overheat so bad it blew a heater core hose off.

sounds like a Stand up shop to me.

wtf
 

Yeah I owned myself because I checked the car out after it died...

Stupid fuck

Seriously man. You need to not be a dick about it. Like I said before, a car doesn't kill itself randomly driving normal. The builder can tell how you drove it from what it looked like when they took it apart.

Killing rotors takes SKILL. EXTREME lean conditions. Which is VERY hard to do on the stock computer considering the stock fuel maps throw enough fuel to drown a whale in seconds. Now if you were by chance driving with the TPS unplugged and O2 sensor unhooked and decided to see how it felt for whatever reason, you could have easily melted the rotor and housing.

hahha
ill buy your rolling chassis or did you stuff that with paper towels too
btw you gave your self away when you said ' i didnt put those paper towels in there'
no one else said that they were paper towels, they said some sort of paper or paper towels , you clarified what they were but you have no idea how they got there,awefully suspicious

huh?
 

thats cuz to my knowledge and what tony from lucky 7 said to me over the phone oh and guess what you werent there so you dont even know what we talked about so dont trip, he said they were some sort of shop towel, and obviously some shop towels are made out of paper. . . . so go try and act smart somewhere else.

im sorry but im with lucky7 on this one. if it is a warranty of any type you dont fuck with it until the company has seen it for themselves. unfortunately im no longer a tech but as a manager i deal with this shit everyday, anything that has been tampered with as simple as an unplugged positive cable on the battery your warranty will be void for suspicions of tampering. even if you take it to court you will lose due to lack of hard evidence. all i gotta say is just let it go and admit youve just owned yourself.

ok whatever.. ill chill. its just people dont know whats up and theyre like oh i did it. i have video evidence of the car and how i was driving it on my youtube. and no i wasnt the TPS was unplugged AFTER the car was towed to my house and it was dead because i was testing the resistance. and the O2 sensor unplugged is how i got it. thats on the video as well. the TPS was held together with a zip tie and i had to snap the tie to unplug it to chek the resistance. the clip of the TPs was already chewed up when i got the car.

i have hard evidence. lol hell i have VIDEO evidence of how i got the car AND how i was supposed to be driving it.

alright, where was the video taken?

shop towels are usually disposable type clotthe towels blue ones not paper and your right im just see what you say and what they say and response is just like body language , it tells a lot especially after you said in other post you removed the tb to get to the injectors , i know thats bs cause i just spent this past week tearing my topend off and i have mechanical experience. it is impossible to get to the injectors by just removing the tb the whole uim has to come off to access either set of injectors

This what I wrote on the west section.

Thread closed per EFF[[Buhrrito]]CEE requests.