what happens between 0.1% and 0% throttle?
07-29-03, 07:01 PM
#26
Former Rx7 *****
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damn i have this too... i thought it was the mounts on the tranny or diff...
this happens in 1st gear and 2nd gear when i'm coasting in a parking lot... it jerks a lot... =(
this happens in 1st gear and 2nd gear when i'm coasting in a parking lot... it jerks a lot... =(
07-29-03, 07:18 PM
#27
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after regrounding my car the on off throttle is less jerky, but I have my secondary throttle plates removed and a nice size street port on my primary intake ports
07-29-03, 07:45 PM
#28
Displacement > Boost
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Originally posted by Blowtus
88integra... if somehow with 0.1% throttle I've dramatically changed the mixture, then I guess that was my problem. Spose it would have been a good idea to have a look at o2 sensor voltages at idle and throttle cracked open, before I changed it...
88integra... if somehow with 0.1% throttle I've dramatically changed the mixture, then I guess that was my problem. Spose it would have been a good idea to have a look at o2 sensor voltages at idle and throttle cracked open, before I changed it...
07-30-03, 06:03 AM
#29
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally posted by Blowtus
ok nz, so you say the injectors turn off based purely on tps value, right? So my current, slight throttle opening setup is still shutting them off, because I adjusted the tps so without any throttle pedal movement (though still slight throttle, because of the change I made) it's slightly below 1k ohm. That would lead me to believe the stumble I had wasn't to do with the injectors opening and closing, because according to you they'll still be doing that. So the only real difference now should be a slightly open throttle when coasting down hills, but not injecting any fuel, so not causing any economy problems?
ok nz, so you say the injectors turn off based purely on tps value, right? So my current, slight throttle opening setup is still shutting them off, because I adjusted the tps so without any throttle pedal movement (though still slight throttle, because of the change I made) it's slightly below 1k ohm. That would lead me to believe the stumble I had wasn't to do with the injectors opening and closing, because according to you they'll still be doing that. So the only real difference now should be a slightly open throttle when coasting down hills, but not injecting any fuel, so not causing any economy problems?
Last edited by NZConvertible; 07-30-03 at 06:05 AM.
07-30-03, 06:54 AM
#30
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I've got it set the same value now, but things are a heap smoother with the absence of freeplay... ah well, I'll just see how it goes and report back for anyone interested.
05-22-04, 08:13 PM
#31
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Hey guys, im ressurecting this post because I have this problem and I decided to do a search. I was wondering if anyone has any updates on how to fix this condition or a walkthru of how to remove the whole thing like kevin did. I have been messing with the fast idle screw and the screw that adjusts the tension of the throttle cable on the back of the engine, but so far it hasnt seemed to help. Thanks.
05-22-04, 09:51 PM
#32
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Open the hood. Disconnect the tps plug. Go for a ride. Did the problem change. FWIW. I've no experience with this PROBLEM.
Love reading old threads. One thing came to mind after reading the KIWI remarks. The suggestion about too much air blah, blah, blah. Which made me think about all the folk who like to mess with their throttle stop screw. You know, the one that had the tamper proof glue on it. That and reading how there is a reason for the tamper proof glue/mud/ adhesive. As in the afm being adjusted for a specific throttle/butterfly/throttle plate opening. As being *matched*. Just a thought. bumpity, bump.
Love reading old threads. One thing came to mind after reading the KIWI remarks. The suggestion about too much air blah, blah, blah. Which made me think about all the folk who like to mess with their throttle stop screw. You know, the one that had the tamper proof glue on it. That and reading how there is a reason for the tamper proof glue/mud/ adhesive. As in the afm being adjusted for a specific throttle/butterfly/throttle plate opening. As being *matched*. Just a thought. bumpity, bump.
05-22-04, 09:54 PM
#33
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Open the hood. Disconnect the tps plug. Go for a ride. Did the problem change. FWIW. I've no experience with this PROBLEM.
Love reading old threads. One thing came to mind after reading the KIWI remarks. The suggestion about too much air blah, blah, blah. Which made me think about all the folk who like to mess with their throttle stop screw. You know, the one that had the tamper proof glue on it. That and reading how there is a reason for the tamper proof glue/mud/ adhesive. As in the afm being adjusted for a specific throttle/butterfly/throttle plate opening. As being *matched*. Just a thought. Sorta related to the removal of those emission devices. Like removihng the air source for the airbleeds, removing the airsource for the oil injectors, err, ahh, like removing designed sources of air during the idle on an original engine. My smart **** remark for the day. bumpity, bump.
Love reading old threads. One thing came to mind after reading the KIWI remarks. The suggestion about too much air blah, blah, blah. Which made me think about all the folk who like to mess with their throttle stop screw. You know, the one that had the tamper proof glue on it. That and reading how there is a reason for the tamper proof glue/mud/ adhesive. As in the afm being adjusted for a specific throttle/butterfly/throttle plate opening. As being *matched*. Just a thought. Sorta related to the removal of those emission devices. Like removihng the air source for the airbleeds, removing the airsource for the oil injectors, err, ahh, like removing designed sources of air during the idle on an original engine. My smart **** remark for the day. bumpity, bump.
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