I've asked this on a previous thread and It was concluded that It was best to use the 12v green diagnostic plug at the Leading Coil Pack or the Ignition Switch Itself.

Although I am not that familiar with the Ignition Switch and don't feel absolutely comfortable using the diagnostic plug for my 88 GXL, what would be an alternative Ignition source to use for the electric fan?

Mind you, previous owner disabled and removed the AAS which I would have used to begin with.

 

not sure but you might hook it up to one of your fuses in the fuse box, the cig light one maybe..............

 

Why not? 12V is 12V, no matter where you get it from. A relay only draws about 0.1-0.2A to switch, so the load on the wiring is negligible. If it really bothers you, go to the main relay, in the left rear corner of the engine bay. Which is where the diagnostic plug is fed from...

 

The reason why I don't feel confortable by using the 12v diagostic plug Is, here you have a thick wire running from the Flex-A-Lite Black Magic 150 being PLUGGED Into this tiny diagnostic plug. I was looking for a more solid approach. Then again, you maybe right, but for me, I'm wanting a source that I could solder in...

 

It probably would work, but I'm looking for something I could use In the engine bay.

 

A fan is powered from the battery via a relay, never from the ignition! Didn't the fan come with a wiring diagram? Does it have a built-in thermostat?

 

On my 87 I ran the thick red wire to a circuit breaker to the battery bus in front of the left strut tower. I let the fan run after the ignition was turned off untill the stat said it was cool enough..
bill

 

It came with a crude diagram. I wired my Ignition wire directly to my battery. Doing It this way allows the fan to run for a couple of minutes even after the car Is off. The fan eventully shuts off once It reaches the preset temp level.

Another reason why I want to do redirect the Ignition wire to serve Its true Intention, besides the fact this fan Is sucking the juice of my battery, Is I am unable to activate my aftermarket alarm which tends t go off If I set It when the fan Is running and the carsIgnition Is off.

For what It Is worth, here are the Instructions to the Installation of the fan:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/instructions/150.pdf

 

Oops, I see what you mean. I had no alarm to deal with. It looks like you will have to add an ignition powered relay to the Bat wire. The ECU fuse is handy.

 

I just got the time to look at the instructions. Step 2 note 1 says the "+" will cut the fan. That's a low current pin. The diagnostic plug will work - or the ECU fuse if you prefer.

 

Why dont you jusr hook into the FACTORY CONNECTOR?

I understand these fans were once factory on some cars.
Look in the wiring diagram to see where the fan belongs in the harness and hook in there!

 

I can’t understand the big deal. Those fans are so damn easy to wire up, as the relay and thermoswitch is all built in.
Wire the B terminal to the battery via a fuse, wire the + terminal to the diagnostic plug (or any other switched 12V source) and wire the G terminal to ground. It doesn’t get much simpler.
It’s pointless to leave the fan running while the engine’s off, because no coolant is being pumped. All you’re doing is cooling the coolant in the radiator and draining your battery.

 

Um...I kind of already know all the above. I have done just that with the exception of the "+" (Ignition source). The one and only reason why I brought up this thread Is to conclude what would be the BEST source of Ignition for this fan. If nothing else comes to mind than I'll try the 12v diagnostic plug. I'll let you know how It turns out when I get to It.

 

OK, you sounded a bit unsure. Sorry. There should be plenty of switched ignition sources under the bonnet, the diagnostic plug is just the easuest because it’s close to the fan and doesn’t require any cutting or soldering of wires. There’s no reason it why shouldn’t be used.