What else do I need for 5 lug conversion?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cooper City, Florida
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What else do I need for 5 lug conversion?
OK, I already pulled the 4 piston Calipers and getting ready to take the hubs and calipers off a GXL and I'm gonna swap it on my 4 lug base. What other stuff do I need? i heard something about getting the master cylinder too?
#5
Is that thing Turbo?
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just did a five lug conversion on my 86 NA, you'll need the whole knuckle assembly up front i think i'm pretty sure that the 4 piston callipers won't bolt to where the 4 lug ones did
#6
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
It is easiest to just pull off the whole lower control arm and then unbolt the strut and remove everything at once.... then swap over up front.
Aside from the rotor/caliper/spindle (up front) and hubs (out back) you need the front brake lines in the wheelwell. I believe from where it disconnects from entering from the engine bay to the wheelwheel.
Every time I've done this conversion the brake master cylinder takes a dump. Don't know why.... but it would not build pressure until I replaced it.
I would prep/paint the calipers while you have them off. Use hi temp brake caliper paint.
I run HAWK HP+ brake pads on the street and like them very much. I did some road racing with them as well and they work great as a dual purpose pad. Major dusting but other than that not too bad.
-GNX7
Aside from the rotor/caliper/spindle (up front) and hubs (out back) you need the front brake lines in the wheelwell. I believe from where it disconnects from entering from the engine bay to the wheelwheel.
Every time I've done this conversion the brake master cylinder takes a dump. Don't know why.... but it would not build pressure until I replaced it.
I would prep/paint the calipers while you have them off. Use hi temp brake caliper paint.
I run HAWK HP+ brake pads on the street and like them very much. I did some road racing with them as well and they work great as a dual purpose pad. Major dusting but other than that not too bad.
-GNX7
Trending Topics
#8
Is that thing Turbo?
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ohh yeah I forgot about the master cylinder it needs to come off the parts car its bigger on the gxl's for those brakes you can see a clear difference if they are placed side by side, the gxl master cylender and booster assembly bolts right up but there is an extra plug on the gxl its white and comes from the bottom of the cylinder I don't know iuf the se's had a anything wired to plug into it the only thing that was there that would reach and fit made my ROOM fuse blow so i left it unplugged and it works great those brakes are soo nice i'd paint those calliper while there off too
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
This thread is full of so much WRONG INFORMATION, I don't even know where to start correcting you people!
There are a thousand write-ups on this on the net. This one is mine:
http://wozzoo.tripod.com/Info/4-5conv.htm
For those of you that don't like to read, here is the nutshell:
#1 You only need the calipers, hub (with bearings) and brake lines for the front.
#2 You don't have to switch the master cylinder
#3 For the rear, it's eaiser to swap the entire rear hub assembly.
There are a thousand write-ups on this on the net. This one is mine:
http://wozzoo.tripod.com/Info/4-5conv.htm
For those of you that don't like to read, here is the nutshell:
#1 You only need the calipers, hub (with bearings) and brake lines for the front.
#2 You don't have to switch the master cylinder
#3 For the rear, it's eaiser to swap the entire rear hub assembly.
Last edited by wozzoom; 04-19-04 at 12:51 PM.
#12
truespin, not tirespin
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Belpre, Ohio
Posts: 655
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wozzoom: your site rules.
I have to let you know though, as I have been searching for that write up for the cold air box for a while, that your pictures are gone.
I have to let you know though, as I have been searching for that write up for the cold air box for a while, that your pictures are gone.
#13
Originally posted by wozzoom
This thread is full of so much WRONG INFORMATION, I don't even know where to start correcting you people!
There are a thousand write-ups on this on the net. This one is mine:
http://wozzoo.tripod.com/Info/4-5conv.htm
For those of you that don't like to read, here is the nutshell:
#1 You only need the calipers, hub (with bearings) and brake lines for the front.
#2 You don't have to switch the master cylinder
#3 For the rear, it's eaiser to swap the entire rear hub assembly.
This thread is full of so much WRONG INFORMATION, I don't even know where to start correcting you people!
There are a thousand write-ups on this on the net. This one is mine:
http://wozzoo.tripod.com/Info/4-5conv.htm
For those of you that don't like to read, here is the nutshell:
#1 You only need the calipers, hub (with bearings) and brake lines for the front.
#2 You don't have to switch the master cylinder
#3 For the rear, it's eaiser to swap the entire rear hub assembly.
The smaller MS (master cylinder) is not designed for the 4-pots. I left the smaller cylinder in my car when I did the conversion and there is way too much peddle travel for my liking.
If you already have a parts car with the correct MS, by all means SWAP IT! You will be glad you did.
Someone told me that the hard lines are bigger as well. So you may as well change those if you can.
I also recommend doing the rear-steer-eliminator while you are at it.
#14
Is that thing Turbo?
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by eyeoutthere
You don’t “need” to change the master cylinder, but you should.
The smaller MS (master cylinder) is not designed for the 4-pots. I left the smaller cylinder in my car when I did the conversion and there is way too much peddle travel for my liking.
If you already have a parts car with the correct MS, by all means SWAP IT! You will be glad you did.
Someone told me that the hard lines are bigger as well. So you may as well change those if you can.
I also recommend doing the rear-steer-eliminator while you are at it.
You don’t “need” to change the master cylinder, but you should.
The smaller MS (master cylinder) is not designed for the 4-pots. I left the smaller cylinder in my car when I did the conversion and there is way too much peddle travel for my liking.
If you already have a parts car with the correct MS, by all means SWAP IT! You will be glad you did.
Someone told me that the hard lines are bigger as well. So you may as well change those if you can.
I also recommend doing the rear-steer-eliminator while you are at it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post