alright so everyday I do something to my car makes me really want to kill the PO of my car. Today I was doing research on the 5th and 6th ports because my car did not feel like what my old one did. Plus the exhuast smells of gas really bad when reving the motor.
So in the midst of searching I go out to look at where my ports are supposed to be and there is almost nothing having to do with the system there at all except the ports themselves and of course you would think they would be open because thats what some people do but no they where closed and my front one is stuck.
Damn
Now some how i need to figure out what pieces i need to make it work and get it all back together. This is going to sound like typical FC owner but if there is anyone who knows how to do this really cheap please help me. I have never worked on this system before and have no idea what I am doing. I do have a copy of the FSM and haynes manual so that should help.
But I want to make it work with out the exhuast back pressure, because i have a straight pipe and only one factory cat, and I am not having much luck so a little help would be nice.
please and thank you
Luke-

 

ok really sorry about all thoughs posts i did not mean to do that if a mod could delete them please and thank you
again really sorry
Luke-

 

I am going to assume that this is on your 88.
First, check that you have a stock cat. It will have a pipe coming off of the pass side of it with a flange on the end.
Since he took off the actuators, I assume that you have an aftermarket exhaust system.

If you have the stock cat or something else with the pipe/flange on it like described, then you will need a split air pipe and 2 actuators, plus the gaskets for them (cheap.) All but the gaskets you can find at a junkyard or the f/s section of the forums. The gaskets you can get at a dealership or mazdatrix. Take the parts and assemble like stock.

If you don't have any attachment for the split air pipe, then you will need an alternative method of opening them. You are probably looking at 75-100 bucks in parts if this is the case. I wrote a write-up on one way to do it here: http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=48&co=1&vi=1

 

Sorry yes it is my 88. Ok I do have one cat with that pipe on it but yeah the rest is all custom piping. So all I need is the 2 actuators, a split air pipe, and some gaskets. what are the gaskets for? I dont see anything that needs a gasket in the FSM.
I was reading up on it and eventually I would like to go to solenoids personally with the rpm switch but I cant afford that right now and just want them working so hopefully this works i just need to find the parts and figure out what you mean by the gaskets.
Thank you for the help.
Luke-

 

Smog pump still thier? Without it they wont work.

 

damn no there is no smog pump

 

No. The 6pi system on the 86-88 models is actuated solely by back pressure created by the exhaust. The 89-91 system worked with the air pump.

To the O.P. you need to take the actuators off and clean them first off. That procedure should be in the Haynes manual, but there are basicly two screws that hold them on. Take them off clean them and make sure they don't stick after you clean them up. The split air pipe runs to the ACV and then to the actuators themselves, if I remember correctly. Try that then report back.

 

Ok well first I need to get the stuff together because I dont actually have any part of the system. But quick question what is the ACV and what does it do just so i know.
also what can i use as a split air pipe because my cat is aftermarket and is not in the stock location.
other wise this is what i have figured out.
i need a split air pipe that goes to the ACV (which i need) and then some how the ACV connects to the actuators (which i should clean) and the actuators attach to the manifold by two screws and then they connect to the 5th & 6th ports
is that right?
Luke-

 

Actually, you don't need the ACV. In fact, the split air pipe diesn't even directly go to the ACV. It connects to the back part of the LIM, which has air routed from the ACV. But that isn't the part you are concerned with. All you are worried about is the small little tube that shoots off just before the solenoid near the engine side of the pipe. This is what connects to the actuators, or more specifically a metal tube that feeds the actuators (which is attached to the bottom of the LIM).
Even though your cat is aftermarket, you should be able to use the stock split air pipe. The only worry is that there is too little pressure to operate the actuators, but since you have a functioning cat, it should be OK.

Now, on to the cleaning part. As stated earlier, you will need to make sure the sleeves can actually freely rotate before you put on the actuators. You can try freeing it up with some WD-40 or something, but there is a decent chance you will have to pull off the LIM as that is the only way to get to them.

Also, the gaskets are for where the actuators connect to the LIM. You might get away with some RTV if you are really careful, but the holes are pretty small and easy to clog (trust me, I've done it.)

 

ok well the front port is sort of stuck it does move just only half way so i think i can get it free.
ok so i just need that metal tube the actuators and a split air pipe even though the cat is not in the stock location.

 

you can take out the auctuaters and soak them down in wd40 and move the rod up and down, which helps a bit

but if you want an easy fix you could take off the actuaters and zip tie them open OR you could take off the lower intake manifold and take out both sleeves and block off the holes from the rod prop linkage

 

First, he doesn't have the actuators, that is the problem. Second, he wants to have a working system, not a half-*** fix.


To the OP, how far off from stock is the location of the tube on the cat? If its way different you might have to improvise to make it match up. You just need to get the air from the tube on the cat to the actuators, how you do it doesn't really matter.

 

yeah i definatly dont want to wire them open that defeats the purpose of them being there mazda put them there for a reason . i am not sure of distance exactly i just know the only thing stock on the exhuast right now is the manifold. so i could just get some vacum line tubing and run it from the cat to the split air pipe.
I attached a quick sketch of what my exhuast looks like. key word real quick

 

They may have put them their for a reason, but it can be changed. Some people do wire them open, some leave them intact to open on their own.

 

I know people wire them open, but I just dont see a good reason to do so we all know it causes a loss in low end power so why do it unless they are broken and its the only option you have.

 

I wired mine open cause i kept burning up electric air pumps, but it has no gain in powe wireing them open a dyno graph would show that same curve after they open on a functioning system, below that point you just lose power, thats why maxda put em there.
OP spray some wd-40 or something on those stuck rods and let it soak, hopefully you can get em free without having to pull the intake manifold

 

i am going to do that today with the WD-40
hopefully it comes unstuck because it does move about half way befor it gets stuck. I think if i just keep working it she'll come unstuck.
lol
thanks for the help ill keep posting progress as i get things together and unstuck and stuff.
thanks to everyone for the help so far

 

oh yeah but mine are technicaly wired closed so yeah once i hit 4k i get a strange hesitation and then bog not to much power and being N/A i dont have much as it is

 

so i got the front port almost moving freely still alittle sticky but it moves about 90% of its movement instead of 25%

 

where is all of this stuff at? is it on the TB?

anyone got some pix of the 5th/6th port location and where the actuator is at?

 

Ok I dont have a picture of the actuators but I have some of where they are supposed to be.
Here is a close up the red circles are where the actuators are supposed to be I believe the red arrow points at where the split air pipe attaches and the blue arrow shows where the air would come out if someone had not filled mine with problem plastic stuff now i have to figure out how to get it all out.
also you can see where the manifold attaches to the rest of the exhuast is welded together what where they thinking. that big vacum line at the top of the pic was clamped shut too no idea why but it was.
Here is a further back view for reference.

I have more pics of the engine bay but they dont really have to do with this subject so ill make another thread involving everything else I might need help with.
Thanks all.
Luke-

 

EDIT: Just realized what I have to say has nothing to do with this. Feel free to ignore.

 

oh ok but either way you are right you dont want to know who i got it from. thankfully I only payed $300 for it.
and it runs and drives pretty good considering everything I find wrong with it.
Eventually I want to pull the motor rebuild, bridge port or street port it not sure yet and then put on a turbo like Aaron Cake did because I just love turbos and I need just alittle more speed but I still want it reliable

 

U dodged a bullet by editing ur post b4 i posted.

 

haha i know i was about to go at him but my computer messed up then it was edited before i could respond lol