Next week, I'm going to be towing a GXL from West Virginia to Illinois. I'm a bit fuzzy on what exactly I'm going to need in order to tow it, though. Can I get away with a tow bar, or do I need a tow dolly? And, if the latter, how well does it fit with the low ground clearance?

I've also been told that I should take out the driveshaft before towing it - it's just the 4 bolts at the differential flange & it slides out, correct (and mark it for reinstall so it's oriented the same way)?

Anything else I should know?

-=Russ=-

 

I just used a single axle tow dolly. I towed an 87 N/A w. 5 speed over 1200 miles, and I didnt even take the driveshaft out.

 

you only need to remove the driveshaft if you are towing an automatic. The thing you have to be careful of, is that as soon as you remove the driveshaft gear oil will begin draining out the back of the transmission.

and yes, if you do remove the driveshaft, it is simply the four bolts at the diff flange.

 

What are you planning on towing it with?

 

If you have the ability just get a trailer.

 

best and easiest to use a dolly as Rat suggested. Removing the shaft is not necessary in manual models, however, I take the time to do so (call me ****...). take a 1qt freezerbag and place it on the tail section after the shaft is removed and using a tie wrap secure it. add a second for insurance. Try to make the bag tight against the tail section to minimize fluid loss. the second can be loose.

 

Ditto...except mine is an 86 N/A. Went from Virginia Beach, VA to Bossier City, LA. No problems. When I rented the dolly, they told me it would'nt work because of the low ground clearance. I said whatever I still want it. All I had to do was put some 2x4s in front of the ramps and put the car up. Didnt scrape when I did that. Much like you have to do to get your car up on ramps for working underneath.

 

I rented a tow dolly for my s4 TII with KYB shocks Ebiach springs and low series tires and it was just fine didnt scrape once.

 

Full size van.

I'll try to remember to bring some 2x4s - that's a good idea.

What is the difference between a tow dolly & a tow bar (and how does a tow bar connect)?

-=Russ=-

 

tow dolly will tow a 7 no problem, as loing as it isnt auto you dont have to do anything to the DS. I've towed literally hundreds of 7s this way, short and long distances.

A tow bar leaves all 4 wheels on the ground, and is less stable than a dolly. A with a dolly you're only speed limited by conditions, your setup, and common sense. With a tow bar, about 50-55mph is max speed, in my experience. I've run tow dollies at 80mph for long distance trips, and was perfectly in control.

 

Thanks, Kevin! I'll probably spend the extra few $$ for the tow dolly then.

-=Russ=-

 

The tow bar has to have the fittings welded to the frame.. Tow dolly is the way to go.

 

i tow dollied my T2 about 500 miles with no problem, only bitch is you can't back up whatsoever or you wind up with a pretzel...

 

Yeah, try not to get into a situation where you have to back up. Its not like backing a trailer, the tow dolly platform pivots on the frame to help make the dolly follow the vehicle towing it. It tends to turn and cause the vehicle to go left or right when you try to back it straight up.

 

i guess this is kinda a threadjack, but could be used for good info, i just bought an fb in florida, can i just put the back wheels on a tow dollie and igntition lock the steering wheel straight... its auto

 

not a good idea, I dont even think it will lock up str8. Dolly is good for front wheels up, or if not rent a trailer. I think its like $20-30 a day.

 

I highly recommend the use of a full trailer. I towed my vert from Omaha, NE to Mankato, MN without any problems. It is defenitely worth considering even if it is 20+ more a day to rent. After all how much do you love your car?!

 

If you lock the front wheels straight, then the car will have a hard time turning when you tow it around corners. The rear wheels will follow because they are attached to a differential which allows them to rotate at different speeds. I think the front wheels have to be unlocked if the rear wheels are on a trailer.

 

Um... $20 or $30 a day? Where are you renting these things? I was quoted $300 to rent a tow dolly for a one way trip.

-=Russ=-

 

$300?

i rented one for $35 for one day and told them i was using it locally since their insurance didn't cover out of the area. you could almost buy one for $300...

 

U-haul.....here in really expensive LA area only charged me $54 per day for a double axle trailer.

And by far the full trailor was the best bet when my water pump went out. I drove out to the car and within 10 minutes I was back on the road with the 7 on the trailer. No drive shaft to worry about. No locking of wheels, nothing just drive it up an be gone. The only reason I could argue against the trailer is that your 7 is disabled and won't drive on it's own and you couldn't get the car up there. (of course it will be hard to get one on a car dolly) or you don't have the the extra $10 bux to get a trailer......just couldn't see crawling under the 7 in the middleof the night and getting to those 4 bolts in the dark and then haveing to go through all the steps described above for a measly $10 bux difference

 

Would pushing the '7 onto a full trailer be something that 2 or 3 grown men could accomplish? I really have no idea how high up they are. I suppose I could always disable the clutch safety switch & use the starter to help crank it up, but that's probably not going to make the starter terribly happy with me.

-=Russ=-

 

I've checked on Uhaul rates for moving. Local moves are cheap, but they like to run the rates up for a cross country move. He said he was moving from somewhere in Virginia to Louisiana. They most likely are charging him by the mile and not by the day. If they charge him by the day, he will be more tempted to speed, save time, thus save money and not be a safe driver. Charging by the mile means you pay the same no matter how fast you get there, so you have the incentive to go speeding with a truck and a trailor.

 

Yes, you can do that. But, even with a column lock, you have a little bit of steering play in the wheels, plus they never lock exactly straight anyway, even though it appears so. As a result you usually have a tendency to swap and tug especially at medium to high speeds, so you're usually limited to 50-55mph at max...not good for a long trip. IN this case, it's worthwhile to just pull the DS first. If it's less than 100 miles, I'd probably just pull it backwards, cause by the time you pull the DS you coulda been halfway there!


Trailers are unnecessary. They cost more to rent, or to buy. They weigh 4x as much as a tow dolly. They place much added strain to the tow vehicle, both in the form of weight to be pulled forward by the engine/trans, stopped by the brakes, and tongue weight on the suspension. IF you're going 2 ways to pick up a car with a trailer, you've destroyed any chance at decent gas mileage even on the half of the trip that the trailer isn't loaded...whereas with a dolly you're still not much over stock. Plus the rental places often won't rent a trailer to a medium or smaller truck, but they will a tow dolly.

Uhm...it's painfully obvious to me that you dont have much towing/trailering experience, and don't really know what you're talking about. Please disregard this man's advice.

Never rent one way unless it's absolutely necessary. Trailers and dollies have no odometers, therefore mileage doesnt matter. Rent it local, take it (empty) to get the car (which, with a dolly doesn't cost you anything extra since it doesnt really hurt your tow vehicles gas mileage), tow it back, and return it the next day. Locals are usually $55 per day dolly, $80 for trailer.

 

Eat your Wheaties and get a running start at the trailer and 3 grown menprobably can be able to get it up on the trailer.