You may have posted on the first on of these posts, but I have narrowed my shopping down to 4 little groups of bolt-ons for the TII. check out my mods (sig) and let me know what you think i should buy.

 

definitely do the 720's and the S-afc. This allows for future "expansion" of mods, like a catback, while still being safe at the same time.

The BOV will protect your stock turbo better than the stock BOV, and it sounds neato

my vote is the first one, followed by a catback SOON. Ive heard too many stock catbacks with a DP and MP, doesn't sound too pretty.

Good luck, and wise choices!

Jameson

 

i have 2.5" downpipe and straightpipe.

 

yup, i read that in your sig

I was just suggesting you get a catback, so it sounds awesome, but AFTER you build your fuel system.

 

nice

 

i'm a monster, braaaawwr

 

save it and get a Haltech first

 

After having a bit of personal expirience, I have decided my own safe method to rotary performance. Anyways, have these mods installed as SETS;

Set 1:
1. Walbro in tank pump
2. POrt w/g on S4 turbo or get S5 turbo
3. Full exhaust and FCD (You'll run rich at top end pruven by my dyno tuning)

Forget the SAFC if you are going to do the next set;
Set 2:
4. S5 turbo (W/G port optional)
5. FMIC (Greddy, 920 shipped)
6. Haltech e6k or e11
7. Injector uprades (tuned)

Set 3:
8. Custom TID, cold air intake
9. Engine porting
10. dyno tuned

Set 4:
11. Custom turbo
12. External wastegate
13. You are nuts

Thats what my plan is like. I am halfway into step 2 as I bought a fmic and s5 turbo. Although my s5 turbo has an upgraded compressor so that pushes me further down the list I guess.

 

what about the bigger injectors? i already have a walbro.

 

Set one from my above sets really does not require injectors. You will actually run quite a bit rich if that setup boosts you to 6psi (like mine). 203 rwhp was my score.

I guess you can go the cheap way out and get exhaust, ported w/g, safc, intake, fcd, injectors and then dyno tune it all but thats really the bandaid method. The stock ECU sucks. Ever feel the car buck for no reason? Yep. Its really slow.

 

well i already have: walbro255, FCD, HKS intake, 2.5"dp, straightpipe. right now i am at about 9 psi. what if i were to add a fmic?

 

Dude! go with the front mount!! Your going to add power from having nice cold air, Think about when you drive your car when is cold out! you could have that power all the time! Cold air is going to give you less chance of detionation. Buying a SAFC is a wast of money! save for a haltech.

 

yeah, i was thinking of getting a nice used intercooler with some piping and some 720 injectors. you agree?

 

720's, FMIC plus your mods? turn up the boost! That would be sweet, what are you going to use to control your 720's? I had a SAFC on my TII and it didn't like the extra fuel! but than i run 100 octain minimum. I would say final decision!!


FMIC, catback and $10 dollar TID mod! run stock boost 5 psi and have boost creap to 9-10 psi in third and fouth gear. Dyno your car! make sure your A\F is still safe on there wide band. RX7.com has some good pics of the greddy FMIC on the websight, it's mean!!

 

I agree with Tec

 

I don't know why you are only seeing 6psi with full exhaust. I gues if you still have the stock intake a wastegate ported all to hell its possible. But giving him advice that he will run rich with a full exhaust, fcd and walbro isn't all that helpful. There are plenty of people that don't run very rich or that run lean. Every car's not the same.

 

if i were to get an fmic and a catback (providing i could afford it) would i really need to turn up the boost? the problem here is that i cant afford 720s, fmic, AND something to control the fuel.

 

What kind of fmic are you looking to get? With full exhaust, intake and fmic you need a walbro(you have), fcd(you have), larger secondaries, and a way to tune the fuel. Now if you skip the catback you might be able to get away without the larger secondaries for now, but you'd need to get the car on a dyno with a wideband to be sure. So to sum it up, you might be able to get away with dp/mp/fmic/intake with using s-afc/walbro/fcd. Thats a maybe, just depends on your boost with your setup. But if you can't afford something, don't let it be a fuel mod.

And to answer your last question...you won't have to turn up the boost if you have full exhaust/intake/fmic. It will turn its self up.

 

ok the bottom line here is that i want to be around 215-220 wheel horsepower. can i do that without buying injectors and an s-afc (the problem is that i HAVE to have something to control that extra fuel)

 

do i really have to have something to control the fuel with bigger secondaries?

 

Yea you do. I mean the bigger secondaries will prolly make you run pig rich. Like I said before, don't short the fuel system. If you must skip somthing, let it be something that will raise your boost/HP. If you get the fuel system taken care of then you can do whatever HP mods you want, and most importantly-SAFELY.

 

yeah thats what i was thinking. well maybe i will tr to gather some more funds and get safc, fmic, and 720s...

 

Ya thats a good idea. Get the s-afc and injectors out of the way now. Save whatever you have left and start saving for a fmic. Do you have a particular brand you want to get or are you going to try for a custom setup?

 

well, i was thinkin about trying to find a custom one (350-400 bucks or so) and having someone fabricate me some piping so i cna afford an safc and injectors.

 

Ya I was planning on doing that myself. Then i found that for $885 shipped I could get the GReddy fmic kit. I figured the cost of the intercooler($350 or so), cost for custom piping($100 yourself or a few hundred to have someone do it) plus the headache and added to it that it won't be as good of a setup as the GReddy. Then I ordered the GReddy. If you can afford $400 for an intercooler then just save it and wait until you can get the GReddy one. Its been tested and proven.