Turbo23

iTrader: (4)

Well i search alot on this and bascially havent gotten a straight answer. Ive gone e6k with this recent rebuild and and have gotten to the switching actuator. problem is i have a s4 turbo ( thought about going s5 but i would need one with a manfiold for about 150) Now the switching actuator finally goes fully open around 2700rpm. Well 90 percent of driving a rotary is done above 3k anyways. So then is it really needed? I would however like to keep it, but i dont know how to set it up! Suggestions please!

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

its possible, but most ppl simple remove those flapper doors in mani for overall higher flow

how exactly to set it up is question for Haltech forum, most likely original vacuum routing to solenoid and hook it up to one of unused outputs of E6K (PWM?)

torean

i think his problem is that hes removing the rats nest...so im not sure if hes got any solenoids to hook it up to

Turbo23

iTrader: (4)

well i might be able to remove the selonid off the rats nest. Also another question. The pulsation damper also i beleive runs into the rats nest, where would i plum that to now?(may be wrong)

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

pulsation damper is not hooked up to vacuum lines

fuel pressure regulator is (u can hook it up to any source of vacuum - after TB)

NZConvertible

Un, no. Not even close. Unless you like crusing around in 3rd, which would be silly...

The twin-scroll is easy to get working. All you need is a solenoid valve and check valve (both taken from the vac rack) plumbed up as per the schematic on FSM page 4B-53. Connect one of the the solenoid's pins to switched 12V and the other pin to one of the Haltech's outputs, set up to be ON below 2700rpm and OFF above it. Cakewalk.