well the motor is bad !!!!!!!!!!
 

I have tried and tried to get this motor to start . It still has nocompression and the guy says it was a good motor and told me I blew it up and wont give me my money back what a punk!!!
just to let you all know his email is
TLETCH45@PRODIGY.NET
said he got the motor from a guy in chicago a year ago.
Sorry to post this here but to all the people that tried to give me advise on getting it running thanks . and be aware of this guy!!!!!

Damn. That sucks man...

Lets all send him an e-mail!!!!

Thought about it...Dont know that it would help the situation any...

No compression? Is it flooded? Have you tried to push start it to get it running (get it going at like 4000rpm in first gear)? A lot of the time its just because the motor flooded clearing any oil out of the rotor chamber. Try throwing a bit in the spark plug holes then push starting it for a few blocks. It will start eventually if its not blown. If it does start leave it running for a long time to burn away all that fuel. Then kill it and change the oil. Find out whats causing it to flood.

But if it indeed is blown, bridge port time :D :eek:

Tom Lichtenegger from jackson MO? I know him, have known him a while, have done business with him. Maybe there is more to the story. Tom is a good guy. Maybe he didnt know any better before he sold it. I dunno. Tom? You out there?

agreed...

wow all the posts that were here are gone !!!! Must ahve been to much bitchin . Im sorry guys for what you all read on here . But I had to let you all know what I was going through because I had you all tryin to help me. Thank you again every one.

I wonder why all the posts were removed. Sounded like a difference of opinion. Yet they left Tom's email. Tom did say he responded to some allegations, but I don't see them.
Weird.
RW

yeah he joined the forum to call me names and stuff and try to defend himself . In his remarks he did say that if he wanted to he could have sent the bad motor he had in his back yard or garage what ever and I myself think that is what he sold me. Its plain and simple this motor should of had some kind of compression and at least with 60-65000 miles on it should have started right up with out me haveing to try everything there is to try to get it to start.

The moderatorship SUCKS in this forum. THey pick over something such as this (I read TOm's post, and it was NOT out of line WHATSOEVER) and let some other shit get TOTALLY out of hand. ITs just stupid. BUt, its out of my hands, so whatever.

Yeah. Moderators do suck. But the forum also crashed or moved servers or something. Alot of new posts and replies are gone.

I agree. Some of my replies to other posts disappeared in the last couple of days, so I think in this case, they are having major server problems which is wiping out messages.

That hella sux. . . . .

- James

Everyone, I am back since my last post was wiped off the face of the forum. I joined the Forum so that I could defend myself from alligations from Lloyd R. Ferguson(RX7Bear). No Lloyd, I didn't join just to call you names or anything, I have never refered to you in any other manner than "Mr. Ferguson" or Lloyd, which is about 100 times better than what all you are saying about me. Also, I have never stated that "I know where you live, I have your address and phone number" like you have stated to me. You have threatened me, you have repetedly cussed me, you have falsly accused me of many things, yet, I remain calm and have not retailated, other than offer a calm, plain defense and "my side" of the story.
Now, to go along with my first post, I will finish up here tonite. Mr. Ferguson, since you like beating a dead horse, so to speak, I will entertain you with very possibly, my last post on the Forum. You said the plugs in the motor I sold you were not the correct plugs, and they were not. They were there simply to keep crap from getting into the combustion chambers, that is all, not to run on. I do admit and still stand behind the fact of when I shipped that motor to you, I turned it over again by hand, and it still had 3 very strong and distinct "whooshes" on each rotor. Now, after it left my possession, I have no control over the motor or its well being any more, so I will not offer any type of warranty. Also, since I did not personally build that motor, I will not offer any warranty. It is a used, 14-15 year old motor, that I would not warranty unless I had personally built it. Kevin personally builds his motors and offers a warranty. He can do this because he has confidence in his workmanship, as do I.
Another point you bring up Mr. Ferguson, is the Trust issue. Now, lets look at several points here. 1) I looked all over this area for the least expensive shipper, emailed you with all the different prices and let you decide. I could have told you it was going to cost a lot more, then just pocketed the rest, but I did not. I paid for the shipping, out of my pocket so that you could get the motor a little quicker, since you kept emailing me asking about it, saying how you needed it ASAP! I took your word that you would send the money 4 days after I sent you the motor. You did send the money as I did the motor. You emailed me this past week and said you knew from the first day that the motor was junk, yet you wait a month and a half to actually tell me this. If you would have said something when you got the motor, we could have done something, but a month and a half later? I think not.
To be continued.....

Part 2.
When you said you had to install the new gaskets, yes, YOU requested the motor be a bare block, so I stripped it to a bare block for you.
Now, you also said that I was just wanting everyone to feel sorry for me? No, I just want to be able to tell my side of the story and defend myself of what I am being accused of. I do have lots of 2nd Gen parts still in my garage, hatches, wiring harnesses for an N/A car, ECU's misc. interior pieces, a dash, part of a rearend, just lots of weird stuff. I will not sell any of it to anyone since Mr. Ferguson has started his little escapade here. I will give it away to anyone who wants any or all of it, just come pick it up. I will not ship anything to anyone, sorry.
Now, Mr. Ferguson, if you wish to come to my home, please catch a flight (since you stated you can fly free anywhere) to Lambert Field in St. Louis, MO, then catch a hop to Cape Girardeau, MO municipal airfield. I will meet you in person so this manner can be taken care of however you see fit. Please call me when you have a schedule, but try to make it on the weekend as I do work during the week. I will make it a point to meet you at the airport so this can all be taken care of in a gentlemans fashion, if you wish.
I am sorry again for the waste of bandwidth, but I would lie to wish everyone here a safe and happy season, safe travel during the holiday season and a Merry Christmas to everyone. Please Be careful driving or traveling this holiday season.
Thank You

LMFAO...:rofl:

Guess that about sums it all up. There isnt much more to be said here, really. No one can be sure what happened from the time it left tom's house until the time it got posted here on the forum.

Besides. If I were a buyer, and I am having to give a lot of money for something, I ask for a written guarantee, against DOA if nothing else, and what resolution will be given ahead of time should there be a problem later. IF a buyer wont provide me with this (on a high dollar item mind you) then I usually thank them for their time and let it slide. IF it is a no guarantee part, I either get it fairly cheap or not at all.

Same thing with selling. The parts that I sell untested I generally let go real cheap. This basically means that if you buy a logicon from me that I havent tested, its like buying from a pick-n-pull junkyard...most of em have a no refund policy. THis means if you hand pick it and take it home, its your baby, working or not. But, they let stuff go cheap because of this. You might get a non working part, and you havent really lost much; plus you still have spare parts and can usually put 2 together to make one. Sometimes you luck up and get a perfect part for dirt cheap.

However, if I sell something that I know for a fact worked, then I ask a lot more out of it. THis is because Im putting my name on the line, and it'll cover extra expenses later down the road should a problem arise. As a buyer, keep in mind the tried and true saying: "you get what you paid for". In summary, if you dont get a warranty, get the parts cheap. IF you pay a lot, get a written warranty as well as written recourse in event of a failure.

Couldn't have said it better. Just ask all the people that bought j-spec motors from somewhere else because they were a couple bucks cheaper than mine, then they ended up buying one of mine because theirs doesn't work and there was no warranty or they can't get ahold of them anymore. People must use common sense and good judgement on these higher dollar items like Kevin said. I try to warn people about situations that could turn sour when they email me, but you can only do so much over the internet.

Good luck to both of you. I hope that something can be resolved between you guys.

I did ask him if it was good when we were talking about me buying it. And did tell him I want a refund if it isnt. He is just saying I took to long to tell him it is bad.
I love my car and took my time doing the install I dont have a garage to do it in and if anyone on here is from Maryland knows it has rained quite alot here just so happened it didnt start till I got the motor. At the beginning of Oct.When I got a good week end to do it I rented the lift pulled my old one and tried to install it but my motor mount was shot so I had to wait another week.
You all saw all the posts on here asking what might be wrong and what can I try. The same day I started asking all that he was emailed about it and was nice to me. But now that it turns out to be bad Im th ebad guy because he said it was a good motor I bought it took my time to put it in found out its bad and want a refund.
I see were he is coming from ? NOT
Ive worked for th epublic along time the customer is always right so they say and there are laws to protect people from being ripped off. That is why he was told I have your name address and phone number. And can travel for free due to the fact that the guy who purchased this engine form him is in the army and is a higher end person and does have access to very very good lawyers.
Everything was fine with all this till I told him I have done everything to get it started and I want a refund then I get hit with excuse after excuse . Very bad person to due bussness this way.

What a crime! If I may ask, how much did you pay for the motor? I hope this opens everyone's eyes as to what might happen when parts are purchased.
I purchased an upgraded ecu for my '89 TII. Performs great, yup N370. Paid $300 and when it arrived N326 n/a. Sent it back, but no money returned. Took him to small claims court via phone Naples, Fla. Got a default judgement which will accrue @ 9% per year plus additional expenses. I will pursue this further next year.
Everyone be careful.

603.00 credit card transaction through paypal.

That even makes it worse.....$603 for nothing. At least an upstanding person should offer some consideration to you in this matter. Problem is he can't recoup any monies he paid for the engine...If he paid anything for it.
If your stuck with it, best thing is to have somebody that's knowledgeable open it up, see what's the problem, and report back. That way you'll have proof it was junk! Wish I could offer some assistance rather than just sympathy for a deal gone bad.

tell me about it . You being from NJ knows it has been rainning here on the east coast almost everyweek end since Sept. Not that we dont need it !!!!!!!! But damn I dont have a garage to do this work in and I want that peice of shit motor out of my car .

Turbonut,
Like I have said in previous posts, I will not refund his money for several reasons.
1: I turned the motor over by hand before it was shipped, 3 very strong "whooshes" from each rotor.
2: *if* Lloyd "RX7Bear" would have contacted me in a civilized manner rather than threats and cussing me, there may have been some sympathy.
3: Lloyd had the motor 1 1/2 months before he ever complained to me that it was supposedly bad.
4: Lloyd paid $603.00 for a good 1987-88 N/A 13B motor, which is exactly what I sent him. What he did to it after he took possession, I cannot control and will not give any refunds for.
5: Lloyd has since stated that he has dragged the car for miles at high RPM. Now, if there was any damage done, it would definately be done now.
6: Lloyd supposedly has a "certified mechanic" helping him install this motor, yet he still has to ask what fuel line goes where?
7: Lloyd changed the CAS for some unknown reason with his.

Sorry, but I personally do not know Mr. Fergusons mechanical abilities on a rotary, but I am not giving any refund. He is more than welcome to come to Missouri and this can be settled however he sees fit.
Thank You,

Tom:
Believe me, I understand both positions. You've got a 13/14 year old engine with 60,000 miles? That's @ 4,000 miles per year. Doesn't sound logical.That's why I recommended to have the engine specifically examined by someone that is knowledgeable on rotaries. I also find it interesting the engine has zero compression... meaning all seals gone. It's just a shame that the 2 of you couldn't come to a mutual understanding. You must expect the buyer to be annoyed, and therefore very outspoken after the findings described. Conversely I understand your feathers being ruffled after hearing/seeing all this.
I think both should calm down and digest this situation. It's rediculous to ask the buyer to fly down and we'll discuss it. It could be done up front.
Maybe a mediator is needed!

See what I mean people !!!Now hes doing it on here. I sold ya the motor and I have no way to know what you did to it it dont run you are screwed. Thats why I just contacted the missouri consumer protection agency to let them know about what was done to me too. This guy does not seem to understand what this forum is about . People helping other people with their problems and tring in everyway to help them . not rag on them for their questions.
As far as I can say we all tried to get this motor to start !!! We all know how tempermental these cars can be . I know for a fact they are. I myself have changed it froman auto to a 5speed all new struts 4 piston calipers brand new new rotors header cat for here in Md were we have emissions new gauge faceplate new injectors all new silicon vacume lines and black magic elec fan . Radiator K&N air filter kit my car is a very nice clean no rust michigan car believe it or not no rust and will get its original motor put back in it rebuilt . Maybe not anytime soon because of weather and money but she will be back on the road. And I will not deal with anyone who will not in writing refund money for bad items.
As you can tell by the remarks above no matter what is said or done this guy has a million excuses.

Ummmm... thanks Kevin. The posts were gone due to a crash/restore from backup... but I appreciate your vote of confidence. :rolleyes:

Brad

Lloyd,
He's not giving you excuses, he is telling you a simple business formula.
He sent the motor out without a warranty, express or implied.
That means you bought it "AS IS". Those are extremely important words under the UCC (Uniform Commercial Code).
Tom is giving you your arguments back. He is saying he sent it out in ok condition. You say after a month, you installed it and it was no good. He is simply saying that it broke while in your possession due to something you did. A very valid argument. As you would be the plaintiff, you would have to prove your case, if there was a case. That means you would have to take the motor apart and prove it was sent in bad condition. Then you still have to get over the argument that you bought the motor "AS IS". That very defense on Tom's part will shut you down immediately. You'll never even get to the merit of your case due to this argument.

Besides, traveling to Missouri several times to have the case filed, heard, put off for continuances and then bringing your witnesses in will cost more than the motor is worth. Even if you use the old argument "its the principle of the thing", the economics are all turned around on this one. You have got to look at this objectively.

Further, if you make allegations that are found not to be true, you open yourself up for malicious prosecution in the worst case, if not slander/libel charges...The reason for this is that many people have told you that your theory on this motor may not be correct. Be careful how, to whom and about what you speak. Reputation is a protected matter in this country.

OK, that's all the free advice I'm giving on this one! Take it or leave it.
RW

Well thank you for all that. Makes sence to me I just wish I had the email he sent that stated it But since then I have formated my pc and lost all of it . I thought I printed it all out but didnt because I have been looking for it. I guess it will be taken apart and sold on ebay. Glad I have a basement to do that in at least. Mine is getting rebuilt .

I wasnt so much talking about you as the others. IN fact I wasnt aware you still did much of any moderating in here for a while..havent seen you post/reply/move/close anything in forever.

You have to admit, that a lot of dumb shit goes on in here unmoderated, and a lot of borderline/ok stuff gets snipped or deleted, case in point Ted's last post about a FC meet. NOw I know, I know, you all dont get paid to do this and you cant be everywhere, blah blah, but I think there should be a little bit of a flatline standard, as opposed to whose ever opinion reigns at the moment, which is what it often seems to be.

I mean, I can often come into this section and find no less than 5 seperate topics, posted by the same user the same day, on the front page. ONe might say "help I blew my engine" and another might say "how to get 400 reliable rwhp from my NA", and both were posted in succession.

Sorry you took offense Brad, but like I said I wasnt still aware you did much moderating these days. Its mainly the fact that I have not agreed with the opinions of some of the other moderators in here and elsewhere...

Hummm... I've bought several parts from Tom; although, nothing like a motor. He's one of the most honest and considerate people I've yet to meet. It will take a whole lot of doing, to believe he would/could intentionally sell anything worthless. That said, I certainly feel for anyone who's in your predicament. Hope it'll workout in the end

its a crappy situation, no doubt about that. think of this with a little more intelligence though; the motor has no warranty, you can't return it if it's bad. moreover it's not a new part, it's used and 14 years used at that. i'm not trying to sound un-sympathetic, I'd be very discouraged and upset if it happened to me. I don't know the seller but a bunch of people on the forums seem to and I highly highly doubt that he would knowingly sell you a bad motor bc of the exact shit-storm thats playing out in this thread. part the motor out online somehow, keep it as a spare, use some of it's parts on your current rebuild. There must be some way to make your money back. hell, sell it "as is" to someone who just wants a platform for a rebuild. hope it all works out for you, we all know that playin around w/ these cars is never as easy as it should be

buying used parts is a lottery. you got the bad end of the stick, get over it. If you want something reliable you get a rebuilt one with warranty.

I know it is and after going to the web page for rotoryreserrection I see I could have gotten one for 1000.00 with a warrenty. And damn I would have drove there to get a discount too.
I just will never do a deal unless I have a paper signed from the seller again not just his or her word.

RX7BEAR I'm sorry you are having difficulties... Kevin ISN'T that far, and could have done both a rebuild AND install for you... or probably either. He's inexpensive (NOT the same as cheap- cheap implies shoddy work!) and has a good reputation. Perhaps you should talk to him.

Brad

Yes he is a very nice person from what I've read . Thanks

Exactly. RX7BEAR: First off, if you're using paypal you have to be weary of what you're buying. I'm not saying Tom isn't trustworthy, but if he can't even accept credit cards that has to tell you something. Use your head. You're telling us it rained for a month and a half straight? Even if it did, when doing something yourself, you have to plan on the unexpected. If you can't afford to get someone else to put it in and you can't do it yourself, take the bus and save up some money. Looks like you learned a lesson--You get what you pay for. I recently purchased a $75 used radiator from Eur-Asian in Colorado for my TII after my old one blew, and I nearly got screwed over. (By the way, a horrible place to do business with). Another thing, RX7BEAR, is that you should learn to deal with things in a more civilized manner. Calling people names on a forum won't do anything. Get that free plane ride you claimed, and go settle it with Tom right now. I really do feel for you, but wise up man, you put yourself in this spot.

Bad juju here. Let me say that I have personally dealt with Tom L. over many parts. EVERY single one was recieved as advertised. He is as honest as they come. I think theres a big mis-understanding going on here. I know for a fact that Tom would not send you junk, hes always been a stand up guy in all my dealings with him. Maybe it got damaged in shipping? Maybe you accidentally damaged it somehow without realizing it? But like everyone said, this is just like buying from a pick and pull. You want rock bottom prices, thats the way to go, but dont bitch now that your having a problem, and certainly dont slander someone when you have not one shred of proof that he decieved you or did anything unethical. You tried to cheap out, you got bit, it happens, thats life, deal with it. YOU put yourself in this spot is right. Sorry, we've all been there. You want a good motor with a guarantee and return policy?, go pay $1000-$3000 for a rebuild. AS IS means AS IS. Live and learn.

Rx7 Bear...I feel for you as I have been in the same position in the past..Since you did not get any written agreement to the condition of the motor, you are SOL...

Here is my suggestions for the future...:

"1 I turned the motor over by hand before it was shipped, 3 very strong "whooshes" from each rotor."

This was a quote from the seller...I would like to see where on my compression gauge the 'whoosh' range is?...Next time get the motor compression tested even if It means hooking up a starter and battery...That is the best way to tell if it is good or not...

Get everything in writing and get his DL number, address, and see a picture ID...Then if he is not for real, he will back out, or you have the channels to go after him if he screws you...

Lucky you only ended up 600 bones in the hole..I have a buddy who is down $4000 from Mazdaracing.com....

Just my .02...Talk to Kevin to see if he can help you out with it...He is top notch...

Most of these posts have been a rehash of what was said earlier. What most fail to realize though is that unless you pay with a credit card, you cannot do a charge-back. And even if you do a chargeback, you have to be able to clearly and concisely state why you want your money back to the credit card company.
Further, to say that if you get a ton of information and you have been truly injured, you will have an avenue of redress is plain naive.
Generally, its called a right without a remedy. YOu may have the right to get your money back, but how will you do that? Make endless trips out of state to file a lawsuit? Live with continuances? Have the defendant remove the case to district court if its in small claims court? Hire an attorney with a retainer of $2000 win or loose?
Its a crap shoot. But with Tom, you know that he is honest. NOw, go read the threads about a guy named RSOkinawa. Now there is a genuine bad guy! You do business with him and its virtually guaranteed something will go wrong.
RW

thanks for all the advise and info on this matter everyone. Yes I got burned and that is my judgement on it. He may not think he did it but it is his word against mine. I have learned a lesson and will not let it happen again. It is nice to see so many people looking at this and putting in their remarks. Some people would not like what they read but I take it in stride and love knowledge. And this is what this is to me all of it.
As for going out to Toms or the airport it to me is not worth the time I have been offered money for this motor and or parts off it so I will make my money back on it and be able to use parts off it I dont sell.

Hah, I went through the same damn thing, bought a series5 turboII engine, and SPECIFICALLY asked if it had series 5 turbo/etc on it, and the asshat sends me a series 5 block, with series 4 manifolds, turbo, injectors! And guess what? It was dead! No compression what-so-ever on the front rotor, take it apart and everyone of the side seals is toasted, not to mention bad oil rings! Then, I also bought a series 5 ECU from him, and he sends me a series 4! And he still has never sent me the clutch fan I also bought! Talk about a shitty deal, but what can be done? You probably got screwed, but there's nothing that we can do about it, except give Mr.Landers some buisness, cuz he's one of the last people worth trusting on this damned internet.

Oh come on.... I am not taking any sides here, and I don't know this story, nor do I know either of the parties involved, but what the hell kind of test is that???
I have an engine with 90/20/20 compression, and I get "3 distict and strong whooshes"
I tested an engine with 0/0/0 comp. and it had "3 distinct whooshes"
I'm not implying that the seller doesn't know rotaries (or am I?) but he's got to know that that sort of test holds next to no bearing on the actual compression of the engine once the combustion chamber is sealed with a spark plug!!

And to the buyer- if this was the seller told you this before you bought the engine, and implied that it represented a healthy engine, that should have raised a big red flag in your head... why not an actual comp. test? Hmmm... wonder why......
Granted, it's difficult with a bare block that's not hooked up to a starter, but you can still crank an engine quickly enough with a socket on the main pulley... and with a comp. tester, you may not be able to get exact comp. numbers, but you can get an idea if the comp is good, bad, or very uneven.

Did you try unflooding the engine, or unsticking any seals with ATF and kerosene??

IT's a funny thing then, that I use this test daily to check core motors and parts cars for engine health, then later the gauge always reaffirms what I already knew...:rolleyes:

I would have to say that you dont know what youre talking about then. An engine with NO compression on a whole rotor will NOT produce any whooshes, or move any air out of the plug hole. By definition, no compression = no moved air. As far as whooshes, the moderately experienced ear can discern a loud whoosh (moving air through the plughole) from the deep, echoing, "thug" that occurs when spinning a rotor around with no compression. Compression whistles, no compression makes kathunk sounds or none at all.

Now we're getting somewhere. IF the engine was being sold as is, the buyer could have asked any questions or asked that any specific test be performed before purchase. Evidently he didnt.

IN general it DOES, and if you surveyed all the members of this forum I would say about 90% would agree(independent of this thread). GO read the "no compression/blown engine" threads...the first thing people say is to pull both plugs and listen for strong whooshes. You're saying everybody else is wrong and you're right??:confused:

Nothing personal, but that's bullshit. :bsflag:

You can NOT turn the engine fast enough by hand to get any kind of accurate reading on a gauge. This from someone who tests engines DAILY both inside and out of the car both by ear and with a gauge. You can crank it over to listen for whooshes but youll never register an even semi-accurate number on the gauge. Compression *numbers* are HIGHLY dependent on cranking sped....read the FSM section on the subject if you dont believe that. If cranking speed were not important as you say, the FSM would not include a graph of cranking speed and compression numbers to correct by...

You can, however, check an engine ouyt of the car with a tranny, flywheel, starter, battery, and the throttle held open. This will yeild a pretty accurate number, as long as both plugs are out at once.

I just pulled my old engine apart God the rear rotor housing is shot !!! Its got a big gouge in it from the 2 apex seals that went. And the rotor its self is bad too got a chip out of it were the apex seal is and gouges all over it. plus all the seals were cracked in half . Looks like I will have to find a rotor and rear housing before I even think about rebuilding this motor.

As for th eone in my car now that I cant get to start. I have one last thing Im going to try but just dont feel like tearing off the top end again . But I will we are supose to get some nicerweather here so Im gonna get to work on it . Will let ya all know what comes out of it.

Weak/cracked/stuck apex seals can produce air movement but as soon as there is sealed combustion chamber, the weak seal cannot conpress the air.
I would invite you to listen to my engine cranking over with one spark plug removed, my rear rotor is 90/40/40.
There is ABSOLUTELY NO difference in tone or anything between the three pulses/whooshes exiting through the plug hole.
If you thread a plug in just a half turn or so, so it's 90% sealing the chamber, THEN you can hear a difference in the tiny bit of air coming out around the plug, since it requires much more compression to force the air out.
Please don't say I don't know what I'm talking about, I've checked a lot of engines.

Also, of course compression numbers depend on cranking speed... I actually have a graph that gives the exact compression desired depending on cranking RPM, but you can still get an IDEA as to what the compression is like. Maybe not on a 90/90/85 motor, but definatly on a 90/0/0 one. That's what I'm getting at.
Relax.

Okay guys I had a very nice day to work on this motor again. I took off the intake and header.I sprayed all 6 apex seals with B12 Chemtool and Dumped a full bottle of MMO in here through the intake ports. Making sure I rotated the motor some for each rotor face. Now Im gonna let it sit as long as I can like a week to break that shit loose and hope it will give me some kinda compression on this motor. I will go out each day and turn her over by hand so all the oil in it will get circulated .
Im still sure that this motor is no good but I will give it one more try .

I'd be willing to be it's not apex seals. Probably carbon scored the housing (this causes many non turbo engien deahts) Or when you installed it you dropped something in the engine :P

LOL no nothing dropped in it

okay every one day three turned engine over by hand to get oil on all internal parts .