Well It's Officially Undrivable...
03-31-04, 01:13 AM
#51
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I am going to Radioshack first thing in the emorning to make a code light.... did a search and got th instructions. I've replaced all the sensors, i believe, so i figure i know they are ok so if it reads all f-d up it's probably the ecu...right?
03-31-04, 01:20 AM
#52
Well, you should know pretty much right off the bat. The ECU should give you the 2 diag lights. If those come on, the ECU is most likely okay (but it never hurts to swap it anyways).
Then comes the fun part. if you suspect a bad sensor, but dont know which one (with what you've replaced, you've really only scratched the surface), its time to break out the handy multimeter and check all the signals going to, and coming out of the ECU. The FSM gives you the pinout, what the signals are, and what you should be seeing. Its not a fun task by any means, but I have been successful in fixing FCs this way.
You really need to get AIM or something so we can talk.
Then comes the fun part. if you suspect a bad sensor, but dont know which one (with what you've replaced, you've really only scratched the surface), its time to break out the handy multimeter and check all the signals going to, and coming out of the ECU. The FSM gives you the pinout, what the signals are, and what you should be seeing. Its not a fun task by any means, but I have been successful in fixing FCs this way.
You really need to get AIM or something so we can talk.
03-31-04, 03:47 AM
#57
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dude I told you already this happend to me once and everytime I told you, you never answered back. Check your harness it sounds like its shorting some where. My engine would idle fine but once I would punch it, it would sound like if I had a 2 step on it. If thats how the symptoms sound, then check your wiring. Good luck
04-01-04, 01:41 PM
#60
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Well I replaced the ecu today.... and i am so FREAKIN happy because it fixed the problem! Yes the saga is almost over... The only thing now is I can't seem to set the tps, when i put the probes in the rear of the connector the car sputters and dies... wierd any idea on this? Also what could have caused the ecu to go out? is it my headers getting too hot or what, i would kinda like to avoid this unpleaseantness again if i can. Thanks to all who helped! It feels great to be able to really drive her again...redlined 3 gears and no hesitation problems! I would really like to set the tps though, any idea on that would be great.
thanks a million
Trevor
thanks a million
Trevor
04-01-04, 03:25 PM
#61
Rotary Enthusiast
TPS Adjustment 101
Im not sure if you were trying to set the TPS with the car running (Which is what it sounds like how I read the way you are doing it... I used these instructions to set mine, and it worked out perfectly. )
Quoted from Mr. Aaron Cake:
All this and more found at:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=setting+tps
Hope this helps.
Quoted from Mr. Aaron Cake:
If you need 4 turns of the TPS screw to adjust things "properly", then there's something else seriously wrong. The proper procedure is below:
Adjusting the TPS is a simple maintenance item that should be preformed at any oil change. The benefits include better gas mileage, better performance and a smoother idle. Adjustment only takes a few minutes if you follow the directions below.
What You Need
· Ohmmeter
· Flathead Screwdriver
· Half an hour
How To Adjust
· Warm the car completely by driving for 20 minutes
· If your car is a turbo, remove the intercooler. Loosen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet, remove the vacuum line, and then remove the four 10MM bolts. Lift off the cooler. Do this quickly so the car does not cool.
· Unplug the TPS. On 89+ cars, you want to unplug the connector leading from the lower TPS.
· Hold the TPS connector so the hump points up. Connect your meter between top connection and rightmost connection.
· Adjust the stop screw until the meter reads 1K (1000 Ohms)
· Plug the TPS back in
· If necessary, reinstall the intercooler. Don’t overtighten the hose clamps
· Drive the car for a few minutes, then repeat the procedure
Adjusting the TPS is a simple maintenance item that should be preformed at any oil change. The benefits include better gas mileage, better performance and a smoother idle. Adjustment only takes a few minutes if you follow the directions below.
What You Need
· Ohmmeter
· Flathead Screwdriver
· Half an hour
How To Adjust
· Warm the car completely by driving for 20 minutes
· If your car is a turbo, remove the intercooler. Loosen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet, remove the vacuum line, and then remove the four 10MM bolts. Lift off the cooler. Do this quickly so the car does not cool.
· Unplug the TPS. On 89+ cars, you want to unplug the connector leading from the lower TPS.
· Hold the TPS connector so the hump points up. Connect your meter between top connection and rightmost connection.
· Adjust the stop screw until the meter reads 1K (1000 Ohms)
· Plug the TPS back in
· If necessary, reinstall the intercooler. Don’t overtighten the hose clamps
· Drive the car for a few minutes, then repeat the procedure
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=setting+tps
Hope this helps.
04-01-04, 06:14 PM
#63
Rotary Freak
When my catalitic converters clogged at 90-some thousand miles, I could not move at more than 20 mph. It skipped, missed, and did all kinds of horrible things.
If you have a test pipe, you should install it and see if it makes a difference.
If you have a test pipe, you should install it and see if it makes a difference.
04-02-04, 01:02 AM
#64
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Back to the drawing board guys and gals....I fried the new ecu today, it lasted 6 hours...man that was a great 6 hours though.
Here's my list of sysptoms and possible problems
same as before about the missing now....
the car shudders on 850 idle engine rocks a lot
(new motor mounts 4k ago when rebuilt)
Tps sensor sweeps way past 5k ohms ( have three and they all do)
Terrible g-miliage
crappy crappy crappyness all round
Wont stay in time....or when i get it timed the leading and trailing coils will end up lining up to the same mark when the light is shined on them.
Could the rebuild company have messed up the timing marks? And is it possible i am like 180 dg out of time? WHY ARE MY ECU's FRYING? does anyone have a spare s4 harness (COMPLETE AND UNCUT FOR SALE?) I hate this.....
Here's my list of sysptoms and possible problems
same as before about the missing now....
the car shudders on 850 idle engine rocks a lot
(new motor mounts 4k ago when rebuilt)
Tps sensor sweeps way past 5k ohms ( have three and they all do)
Terrible g-miliage
crappy crappy crappyness all round
Wont stay in time....or when i get it timed the leading and trailing coils will end up lining up to the same mark when the light is shined on them.
Could the rebuild company have messed up the timing marks? And is it possible i am like 180 dg out of time? WHY ARE MY ECU's FRYING? does anyone have a spare s4 harness (COMPLETE AND UNCUT FOR SALE?) I hate this.....
04-02-04, 07:42 AM
#65
Jesus is the Messiah
I think you're on the right track now. Just find whatever is frying the ECU and you should be set.
If you have trouble finding it, something that will help you narrow it down to a given system is poping the thing open and looking for either burn marks, browning, or melted parts.
Worst case, break out the multimiter on it.
I had a supra that had to have problems tapped out in this manner. It ended up being the stock alarm system.
If you do end up needing it, I have a friend with an SE parts car that I can prolly fish out the harness for you on. I'll ask how much he'd want for it. I doubt you'll need it though.
Good luck man.
If you have trouble finding it, something that will help you narrow it down to a given system is poping the thing open and looking for either burn marks, browning, or melted parts.
Worst case, break out the multimiter on it.
I had a supra that had to have problems tapped out in this manner. It ended up being the stock alarm system.
If you do end up needing it, I have a friend with an SE parts car that I can prolly fish out the harness for you on. I'll ask how much he'd want for it. I doubt you'll need it though.
Good luck man.
Last edited by Tofuball; 04-02-04 at 07:45 AM.
04-05-04, 09:54 AM
#67
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Anyone with a STOCK UNCUT s4 Main Harness I am interested to buy. I am going to take the harness out and look for shorts, I am also going to WELD grounds to various parts of the car to make sure they are grounded good, where is the bes place to ground the ECU? Thanks again and I hope to have her on the ground and running really soon. The Slushbox Alero is killing me.....
-trevor
-trevor
04-06-04, 02:07 AM
#69
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Ok well, i opened up both ecu's tonight and could see no visible electronic damage...wierd. Ok so after 4.32 hours of pouring over the search pages these are the next steps i am taking...
Replace thermosensor and make sure connections are good
Check for clogged cat
New battery
Another set of spark plugs....
we'll see what happens.
Tps isn't adjusting right, can i check it off the car? I am going to buy a new one but before i do i want to know if you can check it outside the car...i would rather not buy one for $150 from autozone if i can avoid it. And it seems odd that all my tps's and all the ones from the junk yard are all bad and functioning exactly the same,
Replace thermosensor and make sure connections are good
Check for clogged cat
New battery
Another set of spark plugs....
we'll see what happens.
Tps isn't adjusting right, can i check it off the car? I am going to buy a new one but before i do i want to know if you can check it outside the car...i would rather not buy one for $150 from autozone if i can avoid it. And it seems odd that all my tps's and all the ones from the junk yard are all bad and functioning exactly the same,
04-06-04, 02:23 PM
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Ok well i made the code reader today, And the first code it threw up was the Thermosensor! So I replaced it and the car runs a LOT better! Not the same miss it had before but it still stumbles a little up in the high (6-7k rpm range) Not bad though. The next code was tps sensor so i swapeed it out and the idle isn't any better but the ecu isn't sending up that code now... I am going to check the cat tommorrow.... were almost there i think...
edit- Jrat that is really funny that you put that up there, I was searching last night and that is what made me think to check the thermosensor.....Thanks for your help. Now all i need to do is figure out how to set the idle smooth....it bounces between 750rpms and 900.. kinda lumpy and the motor itself still rocks at idle, hmmm
edit- Jrat that is really funny that you put that up there, I was searching last night and that is what made me think to check the thermosensor.....Thanks for your help. Now all i need to do is figure out how to set the idle smooth....it bounces between 750rpms and 900.. kinda lumpy and the motor itself still rocks at idle, hmmm
Last edited by RRTEC; 04-06-04 at 02:26 PM.
04-06-04, 02:30 PM
#73
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Yeah but it still sweeps way past 5k and it really didn't make a difference, I might just whip out $150 out of my REAR and buy a new on just to settle my mind...
04-06-04, 02:45 PM
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ok i'll hold out a little longer...Now we just need to track down the shaking at idle.... flywheel? clogged cat?.... Hey maybe after my post is done i will have had every problem ever out of a rx-7 and this can be the FIX ALL YOUR PROBLEMS IN ONE post...he he....