weird power lost and pick up lost..
#26
i had it at 16psi for 1 day no problems , but its at 14psi right now . and it did it again this time i had alot of gas , randomly pulled like a bat outa hell , but i was watching the AFRS and they were really lean at 16s . but i stoped in 3rd . this happend after driving for about 15 mins and then it went back to normal afrs back to 11s out of no were . i also raced my buddys civic si 2009 with flash pro and we were side to side till half way of 3rd gear . and just walked him in 4th i kept pulling away . but still feels really quick but if im side to side witha civic si all stock with exhuast theres something wrong . my car spins no tires in 1st from a roll chirps 2nd and 3rd gear like nothing so idk lol. i have to dyno the car im waiting for a dyno day to get some cheap dyno pulls
#27
Ruckin'AwesomeFC
Stop boosting with your AFR's at 16:1.....are you crazy? You're asking to blow the motor up.
The reason why you're feeling that power is because cars make more power the leaner the condition. So when you lean your car out to 16:1, that's dangerously high and could cause a lean enough condition to blow the motor. Get a proper standalone and higher CC injectors with a proper tune.
The reason why you're feeling that power is because cars make more power the leaner the condition. So when you lean your car out to 16:1, that's dangerously high and could cause a lean enough condition to blow the motor. Get a proper standalone and higher CC injectors with a proper tune.
#29
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
Shot in the dark here, but it's worth pondering and will at least get some gears turning to hopefully prevent your engine (which seems perfectly healthy) from eating itself.
I'm not too familiar with Rtek ECUs, but from what it seems, there's not a whole lot you can do with them. If your map goes up to a certain pressure (y axis, which may be represented in %load, KPA, psi, etc) and you're boosting past that, the ECU (normally) will just input the same values as the highest bin. So if your ECU only goes up to say 10 psi (which it should have a higher map resolution than that, but let's just use that number for *****/giggles) and you boost to 15 psi, it will take the 10psi number for that RPM and keep using it, thus leaning your mixture out. If your boost pressure is spiking up past whatever it's set at, it'll do the same.
So watch those boost spikes if you're having any, get an actual standalone if you're going to use a BNR stage 4, and definitely upgrade your fuel system.
On my convertible I have a stock S5 turbo set at 10 psi, and I can do a lot more than just walk a Civic Si, it's like the damn thing didn't even try. I don't care how many bolt-on upgrades it has, it's not getting near me.
I'm not too familiar with Rtek ECUs, but from what it seems, there's not a whole lot you can do with them. If your map goes up to a certain pressure (y axis, which may be represented in %load, KPA, psi, etc) and you're boosting past that, the ECU (normally) will just input the same values as the highest bin. So if your ECU only goes up to say 10 psi (which it should have a higher map resolution than that, but let's just use that number for *****/giggles) and you boost to 15 psi, it will take the 10psi number for that RPM and keep using it, thus leaning your mixture out. If your boost pressure is spiking up past whatever it's set at, it'll do the same.
So watch those boost spikes if you're having any, get an actual standalone if you're going to use a BNR stage 4, and definitely upgrade your fuel system.
On my convertible I have a stock S5 turbo set at 10 psi, and I can do a lot more than just walk a Civic Si, it's like the damn thing didn't even try. I don't care how many bolt-on upgrades it has, it's not getting near me.
#30
thats how i feel^^i really think im gonna grab the power fc before i do anything...ill tell u what its ALOT faster then when i got it stock lol. it puts u back in ur seat but ill try to lower the boost and see whats up and my boost guage is autometer hooked up to the side of the TB nipple. tommarow im changing the plugs and going to the dyno wish me luck . lets see whats up
#32
Rotary Revolutionary
iTrader: (16)
I think you should learn to embed videos...lol. Sounds nice, I'm assuming you have a stock flywheel?
You should seriously consider lowering boost until you get an ecu that can handle it , you engine does not like spikes to 16+ afr, and won't survive very many of them.
I also agree w/ AGreen, a unless a civic is boosted, the race should be over by 3rd gear.....even if you start from a 3rd gear roll. And that's on a stock turbo at 10-12 psi.
You should seriously consider lowering boost until you get an ecu that can handle it , you engine does not like spikes to 16+ afr, and won't survive very many of them.
I also agree w/ AGreen, a unless a civic is boosted, the race should be over by 3rd gear.....even if you start from a 3rd gear roll. And that's on a stock turbo at 10-12 psi.
#33
well did a dyno today . on a dyno jet first run at 14psi was 226 and 221 tq , second run was 240hp and 232 tq at 15psi then did one again at 16 psi 245whp and 233 tq...so idk it was running rich whole time at 12 afrs low 11s . i changed the plugs before going there . the dyno graphhh was smoooooooooth as helll all the way to 7.5 k started falling off after 6700 picked up around 5500 . so yea i need atleast 280whp car didnt smoke once not even tiny bit . so standalone or something else wrong with the car and i readjusted tps before hand
#34
ALL FIXED NOW LOL ...so umm long story short i went outside and just stared at the motor . then i was like wondering if the secondary throttle plates were opening...hmm guess wat NOPE they never opened the dashpot was no good or something . so i did a mini throttle body mod . so they stay open all the time .. and wow ...the boost went to 17psi and i almost lost traction in 3rd lmao . ran lean real fast . so i pulled over turned it down to 14psi still leaning up top and pulling really ******* hard compared to before . now i turned it down to 12psi and its at a steady 12-13 AFRS . deff closer to 300whp now im happy. crazy huh . dyno saturday should be well over 250 whp now
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#35
Registered Loser
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stock map sensor can't see past 14.5psi, rtek only retards one degree timing per psi past 9. so -5 degree max. 720x4 is barely enough for 300whp, but the stock chipped ECU wont know how to balance all this. 720x4 is so the stock turbo runs like stock when upped to 12psi with all the proper bolt ons/fuel upgrades.
#36
Rotary Revolutionary
iTrader: (16)
Well, glad you figured that out, it makes sense why your boost was so high and power was so low 220-240whp is definitely stock turbo #s and its in line w/ your performance against the civic si.
Now just gotta keep boost low, because you are testing the capacity of your fuel system.
Now just gotta keep boost low, because you are testing the capacity of your fuel system.
#38
i have it set to like 6psi its almost hitting 14afrs at 7k now . i think im gonna junk this rtek soon the hot starts have been getting worse it started up faster on stock ecu by itsself on the rtek it floods alot now . i have 1700 miles on the motor so far so good . so 1600cc secondarys and a stand alone should fix all this and a vmount set up
#39
Rotary Power
iTrader: (15)
What standalone you going with? Haltech, microtech? megasquirt is cheap but harder to hook up etc but I know one guy that's posted on your thread is using one (fc3sdrift) and he's running a similar setup and pulling 11.4. Best 1/4 mile time with it I believe.
What makes rtek cause hot starts? Use seen some people running some good power on.the rtek
What makes rtek cause hot starts? Use seen some people running some good power on.the rtek
#40
ive been doing alot of reasearching . i think im gonna try that rtek 2.1 with bigger secandarys . and idk as soon as i put the rtek in it it was harder to start with stock injecters and ecu starts up real easy so i know its not motor lol . then powerr fc this winter when i redo my motor for 500whp .
#47
well the AFR were really high on accident i thought i set it to 10 psi so im happy knowing the motor its self is good im about to stop driving it and wait to get bigger secondarys n stand alone . cause its getting anoying now . and i got a walbro pump with 4x720cc injecters
#48
Rotary Power
iTrader: (15)
Yea should be 350+ whp or more maybe its stage 2 not stage 4? Honesty id be happy running just 10psi, or whatever your fuel system is capable of, probably best to learn to tune it for low boost before turning up the boost and tuning high boost, power isn't everything. Many people on here wish they could get just 200+ whp and you're way beyond that.
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The Shaolin
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