Prod

Ok, thanks for the help guys, this has been very informative.

On my list of things to do:
Audio wiring (the radio is already out, but huge groundings for a pretty big system are still lying in the trunk)
A/C
Carpet/padding
Sound deadening
Aluminum hood (considering fiberglass or CF)
Lightweight rims
Spare tire + jack removed, fix-a-flat in its place
Lighter seats
UNSCREW storage bins & support frame
Lightweight battery

Things I'll consider:
Fiberglass doors
Stainless single exhaust
Power steering
Flywheel

I'd like to leave the door panels and dash intact as much as possible, though I may dump this idea if/when I put in a roll cage. The fiber glass doors would be a good idea so I don't have to get into the driver's seat Dukes of Hazzard style, or JDM style in the event the window is up. There already looks to be an aftermarket exhaust on the car, so I want to inspect that before jumping on a single exhaust system. I was also considering doing a chop job and making it a single exhaust with a cutout option, would this yield a worthwhile gain? (I guess it would depend on the exhaust that's on there right now.)

About the budget issue. I said I'm on a college budget because I'm cheap (Economics major). I have a NROTC full tuition scholarship and I get paid monthly during school as well. I don't drink or have a girlfriend so I basically have no expenses. I have a very reliable daily driver (05 Legacy GT) and I have money from working summer jobs for spending. I had money set aside for education that I'm obviously not using, so I've invested it, so it's not like I'm losing any huge opportunities by not saving my summer job money. The NROTC scholarship means that I automatically have a job for 4 years upon graduation, so once again, I'm not really concerned about my financial future. I'm trying to get the car fully functional for under $1k, and race prepped for under $2k total. And yes, I have no idea what I'm going to do with the car when I get into the Navy.

rarson

Woah, don't underestimate saving your money. I mean, it's good what you've got already. You are already ahead of 90% of the people out there (I say this out of experience with people my age both in the Navy and the civilian world). But it's ALWAYS a good thing to save more money, and it sounds like this car isn't such a dire need... I know in 15 years you'd be happier saving the money than spending it on the car.

Anyway, when you go in the Navy, I'd suggest leaving your car at your parent's place, if you can. I left my Eclipse sit for 3 years and once the battery got charged, it started right up like the day I left it, and I didn't prep it to sit at all. I'm now out of the Navy and driving it every day (of course, I did change the fluids and everything first chance I got). Otherwise, if your parents can't hold onto it, I'd say put it in storage, but then you might want to use that summer job money to pay for that.

It's really weird, but see the thing is, when you're in the Navy, you're surrounded by people with "disposable income" and they do crazy things like buy brand-new $40k cars on a whim. And you know what? You'll get to drive them, a lot, without spending a dime. And you get to a point where you realize that these people are really wasting money on things they don't need, and it really makes you feel glad that you have a stable financial future. You'll feel glad that you aren't paying $550 a month in car payments (and spending the rest on strippers) for something that really doesn't feel that great anyway.

Since you're close to entering hell (the Navy), I'd suggest saving that money up and when you get out, you'll have that much more to go crazy with. And besides, you might get out early like I did and then you'll be looking for a job, living off the savings that you've got so far (and if you're like 80% of the people in the Navy, you'll have gotten married and might even have a kid and thus more of your money will be spent each month). Just a little advice from someone who's been there, done that.

Prod

I know the value of savings, but I'm also frequently hassled by family that I save too much money. My mom paid for the Legacy since I got the scholarship, and in my family's experience with Subarus, I'll almost guarantee that it'll last as a reliable daily driver in excess of 10 years. So I won't be making any new car payments anytime soon.

Also, I have enough in the bank. I don't like to talk in specific numbers. Yes, keeping more money in the bank would always be better, but I think it's good to have a few hobbies. Racing is something that I really enjoy and I think I'll do for the rest of my life, so I see this project as an investment in learning how to build a race car. My mom is giving my brother the boat, so she's dropping some money on me as fair compensation. (I totally pulled the "equal treatment" card to my benefit.) This money is well over my planned cost for the 7 project, so even if I go slighty over budget, I'll still have money to add to my savings. Also, I want to go aviation, so that's essentially a 10 year commitment, and I plan on doing a 20+ year career, but it's a little early to call that one. If I don't go aviation, I'll go subs, which of course is oodles of money. I've pretty much got a full backup plan should my primary plans not work out.

robtechfabrications

honestly...if you want to seriously race prep a car its gonna cost more than 2 grand...you cant cut springs and gut a car and call that race prepped. i mean good coilovers alone are gonne be 1500 and thats nto counting bushing, sway bars, associated linkage, strut bars.......etc...and thats just suspension...then there's tires, wheels, racing seats, harnesses rollcage...we still havent touched engine or drive train...

Bluewind

iTrader: (16)

I've read these 7 pages, but nobody has mentioned the human factor involved. We're really digging into the extremes of eliminating any excess weight from the car, but I know I could lose quite a few pounds if needed. Celery anyone?

rarson

Well, I don't want to pry, but it sounds like you already got plenty in the bank, so in that case, yeah I agree with you.

About the Navy... DON'T go subs. Especially as an officer. First of all, there's only 1 officer on a sub that isn't a nuke officer, and that's the Supply Officer... though, I wouldn't say that's much better than being a nuke officer (unless you somehow are able to stay off a ship). Secondly, as an officer, you'll be making a lot more money to do a lot less work than all the enlisted people solely because of that piece of paper (a degree, and this is true anywhere in the Navy), and some of these people have direct access to your food. It's sad the attitude some people have, but I'm just trying to warn you, I've seen what some people have done to other people's food. Thirdly, there's just a lot more individual responsibility in the submarine environment. We drive the ship, fight fires, and make the water ourselves, we do it all. That means more time spent awake for fire drills, etc. And extra money? We make barely more than any surface sailors, and in some cases, we actually make less.

If you want big money, nuke officer is the way to go, but you don't have to go subs to do that. Once you hit O-3, you can go to Engineer school and once qualified, you automatically receive a yearly $20,000 kicker (just for being qualified). That's some serious dough!

Sorry to jack your thread, but I'm just trying to help. I've seen a lot of nice guys with great attitudes come to my boat only to have it totally destroy them. Guys who wanted 20+ year careers who decide to get out ASAP (I believe as a nuke officer you'd have to do 6, but I'm not sure, the school is almost 2 years long). Enlisted and officer. By the way, nuclear power isn't very interesting.

SupraMikesRX7

iTrader: (1)

Megan Racing coilovers are much less and offer the same adjustability as the more expensive units. If you are looking to do a budget buildup (who isn't???) There are several souces you can use to get fairly good products at a decent price. Remember... Ebay is your freind.

Caveat emptor.

robtechfabrications

yea ebay is you're friend...but you still cant raceprep a car for 2 grand without a lot of hookups

GTU_FAN

2k will get you some new tires, some shocks & springs, a turbo brake/swaybar upgrade, cheap catback and maybe a clutch if you need it. But that's far from race prepped. I think your misusing the term "race-prepped."

[I]Race Prepped[I] means that you are building the car for a certain class of racing either for SCCA or NASA. (Which are the only professional racing groups that run 2nd gen RX7's btw) RX7's usually run in T1 or stock classes. Either way they require a cage, electrical cut-off switch and other safety equipment which aint cheap. Then you need your racing license and all that unless you are just running weekend driving-schools.

[B][I]IF you mean "race prepped" as in the fastest most stripped hard-core RX7 you can build which probably wont remain street legal I have bad news. You wont be able to race it in any sort of professional race. They are very strict with modifications. You'll just be running open-track days and autocross.
If your lucky you might be able to compete in drift events though or if your rich you can try and run the cannonball. Good luck with your street-demon.

NOPR

they're cheap because they're garbage.

SupraMikesRX7

iTrader: (1)

Actually they're the only product in the megan line that's worth a damn. And only because Meagn doesn't make them. They are re-anodized Apex units.

And I agree totally with you guys about the definition of "race prepped"
Look to spend near 7k to have a legalcar in SCCA or NASA.

I've got about 1300 in my car now with about 3k left to spend before it's ready for open track days. Doing all of your own work will save on cost immensly.

BTW, More progress on the weight removal in my car.




Album URL: http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f268/rmikemcd/RX7/

Bluewind

iTrader: (16)

Apex'i stopped making their ExV lineup. They housings are of the same manufacturer, but the valving is another story. Apex'i does their own valving, which is superior to that of Megan Racing. Both models adjust bump and rebound simultaneously, but so do most affordable coilover systems out on the market, which amounts to an inferior product in terms of adjustability.

I don't understand why coilovers came into the jumble of "weight reduction". Let's stay focused.

SupraMikesRX7

iTrader: (1)

800 vs 1000+ x budget = megan

for the money, they arent THAT bad..

mattjp

My 88 TII weighed in on a truck scale at 3000 with the rear carpets/bins removed, and a big 'ol speaker box in the back.

Half a tank of gas and my 150 pound rear in the seat.

Don't know how accurate that is, but i figured i'd throw in my .02

SupraMikesRX7

iTrader: (1)

Damn... That's portly for an FC

Prod

Ok, I'll agree that I was using the term incorrectly. What I want is a car that will initially be used for autocross and track days and then I can build up to a SCCA or NASA class. As far as getting to the SCCA or NASA class for under $2k, I realize that the number is probably highly optimistic. But I'm doing all the work myself or with help from friends, and I've only spent $230 on the car thus far. ($100 for the car, $130 for a motor, now to lots of praying that the swap operation will work)

GTU_FAN

Well that's what I'm trying to say. You have to plan your modifications very carefully to fit within the rulebook of the SCCA. I have the rulebook at home if you want me to quote it to you. But basically modifications are minimal. For example you cant upgrade the brake callipers, put in different suspension bushings or modify the engine in any way besides the cooling system.

Therefor most of what you could do to make a kick-*** autocross car will make you inelligable to race in the SCCA. SCCA racers are not much faster then street cars. They get their speed on a track through suspension setups mostly.

So just keep that in mind. If you want to build an SCCA racer GET THE RULEBOOK and plan your modifications carefully. If you want to make the fastest autocrosser then forget about racing in the SCCA.

robtechfabrications

whereas if you want to build a drift car rip everythign out, build a stiff suspension, make sure you're collcage is spec and keep zipties in your car at all times

Omixeo

iTrader: (1)

Zipties are gods gift to man.

cpubugs

I see a lot of folks suggesting single exit exhaust to save weight? Are you losing any performance in your opinion by not sticking with the duals?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

IMHO, it depends if you're running a turbo or N/A, or 3-rotor. I really only see the benefit of sticking with the duals if you have a true dual exhaust (i.e. RB's Road Race NA Exhaust System). If you're running a collected header, or a turboback exhuast, I don't see how a single exhaust would hurt you.

robtechfabrications

rotary doesnt push enough exhaust volume to need duals...i mean the factory dual is a single exhaust that Ys out at the end.its the same diameter before and after the Y. all you need is a single. saves weight, is easier to fit...but th trade off is its louder.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

mmm, i think, especially with NA, the true duals serve to limit backpressure to retain the low end, but have enough overall volume that it doesn't restrict the high end. That's my guess at least at the road/race header.

cpubugs

But isn't exhaust just air? Which would follow the same rule as water and electricity. Take the Path of least resistance. So dual exhaust even when splitting from the Y pipes would allow more flow. So you think the weight you save by going to single exhaust is worth the small if any power loss?

SupraMikesRX7

iTrader: (1)

No. You can get a single exhaust that will flow more than the stock "dual" anyways. Anything over 3" is overkill for an NA rotary.

Turbo cars will do best with the largest diameter piping you can get/afford.