Wax pellet
07-16-12, 07:04 PM
#28
Well I started it up (haven't reconnected the coolant line to the TB TW yet), but if I lift on the arm the the TW should push up, it only raises the RPM slightly, and will still surge, between 1450-1550 rpm.
Is there something I'm missing? I can't seem to find the fast Idle adjustment screw, is in on the firewall side of the TB, closest to the Dynamic chamber?
Edit:
If that is the fast/high Idle screw, but turning it back it lowered my idle rpm (fully warmed). I can push the throttle shaft further shut, to the "top" screw/ nut stop and it idles down nice. No surge. As soon as I touch the Throttle up at all it won't sit back to the "top" stop and Stays at a touch higher idle.
I also loosened the Throttle cable and that allowed it to idle down a touch...
Is there something I'm missing? I can't seem to find the fast Idle adjustment screw, is in on the firewall side of the TB, closest to the Dynamic chamber?
Edit:
If that is the fast/high Idle screw, but turning it back it lowered my idle rpm (fully warmed). I can push the throttle shaft further shut, to the "top" screw/ nut stop and it idles down nice. No surge. As soon as I touch the Throttle up at all it won't sit back to the "top" stop and Stays at a touch higher idle.
I also loosened the Throttle cable and that allowed it to idle down a touch...
07-16-12, 07:32 PM
#29
try screwing in the phillips screw on the thermowax, similar to what satch mentioned but more permanent. it has a spring under the head and faces straight up, screw it down to compress the spring fully and see if that helps. if not then your throttle cable may be too tight.
07-16-12, 09:04 PM
#30
try screwing in the phillips screw on the thermowax, similar to what satch mentioned but more permanent. it has a spring under the head and faces straight up, screw it down to compress the spring fully and see if that helps. if not then your throttle cable may be too tight.
07-16-12, 09:21 PM
#31
Karack (RE) is talking about the Fast Idle Cam screw which is located on the rear of the throttle body. It's the upside down screw that rests upon the Thermowax piston. In a normal situation as the coolant running to the Thermowax warms it causes the piston to extend downward upon the upside down screw which presses the throttle linkage on the back down which closes the primary plate which lowers the idle.
07-16-12, 09:34 PM
#32
Karack (RE) is talking about the Fast Idle Cam screw which is located on the rear of the throttle body. It's the upside down screw that rests upon the Thermowax piston. In a normal situation as the coolant running to the Thermowax warms it causes the piston to extend downward upon the upside down screw which presses the throttle linkage on the back down which closes the primary plate which lowers the idle.
The other screw, also on the back side of the TB, but closer to the Dynamic chamber. I can adjust it out, but its like the springs on the shaft don't have enough strength to pull it back to the stop screw?
The screw on the right of the pic is what I have adjusted out the most. The stop screw is not depicted on this pic, but is visable from the top of the TB.
07-16-12, 09:38 PM
#33
Actually, I made a boo boo by saying what Karack was referring to. The screw on top of the "Dynamic Chamber is the Idle Adjust Screw and is only adjusted after the Initial set Coupler is jumpered. The small screw at the front of the throttle body, but towards the top of the body helps to set the secondary plates. This bolt is normally tightened down fully from the factory and it need not be tampered with unless someone has messed with it. It normally has a white coating on top of it so as not to mess with it.
07-16-12, 09:45 PM
#34
I have no screw on the top of the dynamic chamber. The second screw Im refering is the on in the pic, just left of the "25*C".
Im Working on my TII. Sorry if that screws up some **** of your explanations? Also just in the process of putting my Retk7 1.7 ecm in. should I hold off til this issue is sorted? The whole reason of all of this was to put 720CC secondaries and cleaned primaries in with the Rtek7. As well as a Boost gauge.
After the last adjustment, I took it for a rip and I has no high rpm jogging like it did before, but also does not boost as high as it did before. Super smooth though throughout the rpm band.
Im Working on my TII. Sorry if that screws up some **** of your explanations? Also just in the process of putting my Retk7 1.7 ecm in. should I hold off til this issue is sorted? The whole reason of all of this was to put 720CC secondaries and cleaned primaries in with the Rtek7. As well as a Boost gauge.
After the last adjustment, I took it for a rip and I has no high rpm jogging like it did before, but also does not boost as high as it did before. Super smooth though throughout the rpm band.
07-16-12, 09:46 PM
#35
screw we're referring to is the one on the left side of that diagram.
remember it is a S4 TII, BAC has the idle set screw as well as the idle hard stop screw which is under the intercooler near the fast idle cam/thermowax adjustment.
without coolant running through the thermowax it won't move much if at all, screwing in the fast idle cam screw will bypass the thermowax to let the throttle idle onto the hard idle set screw. if it isn't touching the hard idle set screw afterwards then be sure the throttle cable has slack in it.
remember it is a S4 TII, BAC has the idle set screw as well as the idle hard stop screw which is under the intercooler near the fast idle cam/thermowax adjustment.
without coolant running through the thermowax it won't move much if at all, screwing in the fast idle cam screw will bypass the thermowax to let the throttle idle onto the hard idle set screw. if it isn't touching the hard idle set screw afterwards then be sure the throttle cable has slack in it.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 07-16-12 at 09:50 PM.
07-16-12, 09:53 PM
#36
The second screw you refer to can adjust the Fast Idle Cam but there are instances where that is not enough of an adjustment because of the cam not sticking downward enough so to make up for the difference then the other screw (left side of your diagram supplied) is then adjusted tighter so it closes the gap between the cam and the tip of the screw thus helping to close the primary plate more. This screw is much easier to access. Yeah, I wasn't sure whether this was the NA you have or the turbo you are currently dealing with.
07-16-12, 10:34 PM
#42
The ISC is jumpered so when you adjust the idle screw at the BAC the BAC won't interfere with the idle adjustment. If it is not jumpered then the BAC will attempt to offeset the idling adjustment. The coupler is located near the leading coil and has two wires (a Black wire and an Orange wire) within a Green connector.
07-16-12, 10:41 PM
#43
The ISC is jumpered so when you adjust the idle screw at the BAC the BAC won't interfere with the idle adjustment. If it is not jumpered then the BAC will attempt to offeset the idling adjustment. The coupler is located near the leading coil and has two wires (a Black wire and an Orange wire) within a Green connector.
After this last test drive, the old secondaries must have been absolutely screwed, cause it now revs perfectly smooth right through to redline. SO Glad its running like brand new, now I can play with the PSI's a little bit.
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