I failed emissions last week and have been fixing/replacing/upgrading lots of stuff to get it to work.

None of these parts are installed. My car only has a downpipe as far as performance mods go. I have porterfield brake pads, billet pedals, cf demister vents and Defi Boost gauge plus my EGR is blocked off and I removed my ABS.

I finally got my hoses for my airpump so my ACV is fully functional, and works nicely. Idles at 750 pretty consistently now.

Got a 3" bend of pipe for a TID, FD BOV, One way valve and AFM adaptor and a H-Trim S4 Hybrid turbo from local rotorheads
Got a early 86 overflow tank NOS off of E-Bay

I had a dirty air filter and 2 cracks in my stock Turbo Inlet Duct which have been "temp fixed" for about 5 months with duct tape LOL.
So I'm finally doing a real TID. Still need to get a cheap 3" cone filter which WILL be replaced by a K&N, and am going to order silicone couplers (black) from hosetechniques tonight.
I grabbed the one way valve from a friend because I told him I was going to get one HDR (home depot racing) style, but he had one from his old car and just gave me it as part of the package deal. I need it to put in-line with the BOV so that I don't have to recirculate it.
The stockers will cause a huge vacuum leak because they don't close under vacuum. Now I can vent, but I had some major flooding issues when I was borrowing his Blitz BOV vented to atmosphere.
I still may have a bung welded onto the TID to recirculate. With a cone filter I will be able to hear the BOV anyways, just not as loud which is fine by me.

I got the FD BOV because its just like the FC one but can take higher pressures and more boost without failure


I got the hybrid because I want a small upgrade but nothing crazy, since my car is already an s4. This is just one less piece to buy (s5 manifold) even though the s5 is divided and better wastegates this one is hogged out so it doesnt really make a difference.
It needs rebuilt but I don't care as I don't intend on using it until a few months out. I could use it now as I have a HKS F-Con and FD fuel pump but I really don't care for much more power right now. I still have some bugs to sort out in my car before I go about blowing it up by being greedy and stupid.

I was pondering getting the hot side ceramic coated while its being rebuilt but I'm wondering if with a rotary that heat would cause problems with the turbine wheel. Not to mention clearance problems possibly.
I am going to have my downpipe ceramic coated though. Just have to find a few days that I can have my car down to have it done. Or just upgrade to a 3" downpipe.
Right now I'm thinking of keeping my stock cat, airpump and catback for as long as possible to see what I can get out of my car. I love the tone of my exhaust with just a downpipe but would like it a tiny bit louder.


Now that I've written a damned book time to get to the last part

For those of you who don't know what a early 86 overflow tank NOS is. NOS means New Old Stock which means its a brand new mazda part. Not used, not aftermarket, brand new baby!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

This mounts by the fuse box and coils on the front of the drivers fender wall. It is what goes on those couple of holes/studs that have nothing on them.
I'm going to use this as the resevoir tank for my water injection system.
I want to keep my stock intercooler for a while and use this as a bandaid to help with air temps.
I'm going to inject it at the TB elbow right between the intercooler and the throttlebody. My only worry is that it won't have good enough distribution between the 3 barrels of the throttlebody.
I'm following the setup that my friend Tom93R1 did on his FD. Water Tank > water filter > solenoid > 60psi water pump > nozzle injecting into the TB
Tom uses a boost switch that he got off of e-bay from coolmist (FD3Boost or whatever on the rx7club). I checked his store and found he has nozzles and water filters and stuff. Should cost me about $120-150 total for all of the parts

I think that I will try water/alky mixed as tom has had great results that I have seen in person. Like dropping 30 degrees celcius from 50/50 water/alky injection. That alcohol cools like the bajesus.

I'll have to talk to J-Rat as he runs alcohol injection too (not just for his liver, but his car too!). I'm hoping that the plastic tank will not have any problems with the alcohol. I doubt it would. But the pump on the otherhand has to be alcohol specific as tom found out the hard way when he burnt up his pump seal from running alcohol.
I went on my lunchbreak to a local pump store to get a new seal and found out that the owner has a 10AE. So I'll go to the same place to get my pump.

Alright, thats all
I would appreciate any comments or feedback, positive or negative

Thanks,
Ben Martin (I'm hungry, hungry for boost)

 

Cliff notes?

 

lmao, erm. maybe another day.

I'm going to pick up the hybrid from G-Rat in about 20 minutes
I got the FD BOV, one way valve and afm adaptor from kevin, and the TID bend from aaron. Gotta love our local rotorheads.

Rat, gimme some advise and stuff for my water injection.

d'oh, just saw i put watercooling and not waterinjection. my bad

 

My advice for water injection is to run alcohol or methanol. But I seem to be the minority in the FC section.. Oh well, nobody likes change..