deadRX7Conv

Slpin, thanks for the ratios for the S4. For those in warmer climates, you can get away with a higher percentage of distilled water. The S5 has a narrower range of requirements.

Waterwetter works best with the least amount of glycol.
Regardless of ratio chosen, everyone should still change their antifreeze or water regularly.

Concerning corrosion, the anti-corrosion additives in a gallon of normal antifreeze is usually 1-2% and then we dilute it 50:50 with water. Thats what, a couple of ounces of brand specific additives floating in your entire cooling system. For those non believers, thats not a lot at all now, is it? Waterwetter provides those additives without the EG.
EthyleneGlycol is not a rust corrosion crud preventative. EG is the antifreeze. EG is the anti-boilover protection. EG doesn't do anything else. Actually it sucks as a coolant and is why we run it diluted with water.

1 ounce of water wetter per quart of water provides the additives needed to prevent corrosion along with the additives needed to reduce water surface tension and localized hot spot boiling. Also, overdosing isn't a benefit. So, learn to measure and not just blindly dump bottles of WW into your cooling system.

I'm not a fan or believer in running straight water. It boils at too low of a temp and there are hundreds of threads with overheating issues.
If you want to run water+water wetter, it is important that your pump/thermostat/fan/radiator....are working perfectly, and that your outside temp never drops below freezing(this includes windchill). And, IMO, you MUST run a higher PSI cap to increase the waters boiling point. That'll also stress the seals/hoses/clamps a little and might help create or locate unknown leaks.

edmcguirk

Please correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think those guidelines are recommended any more.

Those guidelines are perfectly good for preventing freezing but when you dilute water with 20% antifreeze, you end up shortchanging yourself on the anticorrosion additives. (replacing coolant more often would make up for that)

I believe that some time in the '90s they decided to just recommend 50/50 for all cars and all climates.

ed

InNeedOfBoost

i might not push it every day but it does get REALLY hot here in south texas and i do a lot of stop and go driving (i deliver pizza) and just under normal driving (not punching it everywhere or redlining it) the temp still shoots up after a couple of hours. today will be the 1st day of using the water wetter, so ill see how it holds up now. i used a full bottle of water wetter and the rest distilled water with about a quart of normal antifreeze.

sholitz

iTrader: (1)

I've read that water alone will do what this guys was talking about. but the water wetter will couteract any corrosion. which is one of it's primary functions. word but dont take my word for it read the facts like socalrotar said......go here........http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp...yyyep

slpin

iTrader: (9)

waterwetter is good enough
i run straight water + waterwetter in my chevelle
no rust.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

surely, you would think mazda engineers would have thought of that before you and before they would recommend this mixture... dont you agree?

edmcguirk

What year was the 86 manual written?

Back then the same ratios were printed on the back of all the antifreeze bottles too. They don't do that any more.

They expected you to change coolant more often. That's not what manufacturers are shooting for now.

I think it has more to do with extended maintenance periods. They just wanted a standard that would allow a consistent recommendation for all cars in all climates.

ed

InNeedOfBoost

well, after driving it around all night last night that annoying "add coolant" buzzer kept going off. when i checked it it was up to the full line. after about an hour i noticed it had gone up. by the end of the night the coolant in the reservoir was almost to the point of overflowing. i took some out today at work and it came on once right when i started it but it hasnt done it again since.

drago86

Sounds like you just might have a bubble tripping the add coolent light, whent he car is cold remove the bleeder screw from the side of the rad and start the car for a few, then top it off until coolent is flowing out the bleed hole (a little messy), replace the screw while the coolent is still flowing out and top her off completely. Thats how i do it to make sure there are no bubbles atleast.

InNeedOfBoost

so ive read on other threads that this might be the trouble, if not its the sensor going bad or some other electrical problem...if so, i suck at wiring =X