water temp gage hook up
#26
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
That's the worst place to put it. That drain is a branch off the coolant passage, so there's no flow over the sensor. It'll eventually read right, but it's response will be much slower than it is supposed to be.
I installed a digital temp gauge a little while ago, and the sender install didn't turn out quite as I expected. I decided to drill and tap one of the air pump bracket bolt holes, but because this was originally a blind hole (not open all the way through), once the sender was installed only the very tip of it was in the coolant flow (~1mm). As above, this would the gauge respond slowly, so I decided to plug this hole, and drill and tap the blank boss on the back of the water pump instead.
This time once I got the sender in I discovered it clashed with the thermostat, and unscrewing it far enough so that the thermostat fitted meant I had the same problem as before. Only the tip of the sender was exposed. So I went back to my original location, but I attacked the inside of the water pump with a die grinder to fully expose the sender to coolant.
IMO this is the ideal location for a temp sender, but only if you modify the pump housing as I did.
I installed a digital temp gauge a little while ago, and the sender install didn't turn out quite as I expected. I decided to drill and tap one of the air pump bracket bolt holes, but because this was originally a blind hole (not open all the way through), once the sender was installed only the very tip of it was in the coolant flow (~1mm). As above, this would the gauge respond slowly, so I decided to plug this hole, and drill and tap the blank boss on the back of the water pump instead.
This time once I got the sender in I discovered it clashed with the thermostat, and unscrewing it far enough so that the thermostat fitted meant I had the same problem as before. Only the tip of the sender was exposed. So I went back to my original location, but I attacked the inside of the water pump with a die grinder to fully expose the sender to coolant.
IMO this is the ideal location for a temp sender, but only if you modify the pump housing as I did.
#27
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My water temp sensor probe is enormous. I think its one of the higher temp ones. Where do i get one small like the one thats in NZ's pic? Or can i use the one with the giant probe?
#28
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Originally Posted by DASUPACAT1
is this a mech. or elect. gauge? who makes it?
Originally Posted by RylAssassin
My water temp sensor probe is enormous. I think its one of the higher temp ones. Where do i get one small like the one thats in NZ's pic? Or can i use the one with the giant probe?
#31
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Yea, I know, but the one guy seemed to be saying that he replaced it with his Autometer sensor. So I was wondering how he made that work with the ECU. Sounds like a problem to me.
#35
rotorhead
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ok i was lazy
you know that little temp sensor on the thermostat housing that activates that extra cooling fan? I just put it in there, with the help of an adapter thing. It's hardly the perfect place to put the thing but it's more accurate than the stock sensor, and I've always got an oil temp gauge to consult...
you know that little temp sensor on the thermostat housing that activates that extra cooling fan? I just put it in there, with the help of an adapter thing. It's hardly the perfect place to put the thing but it's more accurate than the stock sensor, and I've always got an oil temp gauge to consult...
#36
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bump...
Is the NZconvertible spot the way to go? I was looking at my WP housing today and there doesn't really seem to be anyplace on the back to do it. maybe just drill right into the side?
Is the NZconvertible spot the way to go? I was looking at my WP housing today and there doesn't really seem to be anyplace on the back to do it. maybe just drill right into the side?
#38
Rotary Freak
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My 2-5/8" Autometer mechanical water temp guage has a massive sender. It uses a massive 1/2" NPT adapter and a 3/8" NPT compression fitting similar to the flare fittings on brakes. I couldnt find a place that A) was big enough to house the 1/2" fitting, B) didnt have the sender hitting the thermostat, or C) didnt put a nasty kink in the copper line of my mechanical sender.
I ended up taking my thermostat neck to a local welder and paying $5 to have him cut the threads off of the 1/2" adapter and weld the female portion where the OEM fan sensor goes. Since this made it sit up a bit higher than I would have liked, I used a die grinder to remove as much material as I could around the sender to get maximum flow. I ended up with most of the sender getting exposure to coolant and the last inch or more getting direct contact with the coolant. I know this isnt ideal considering it's after the thermostat, but I get acurate readings and a nice, fat guage to keep a watchful eye on my fresh rebuild.
Pic:
I ended up taking my thermostat neck to a local welder and paying $5 to have him cut the threads off of the 1/2" adapter and weld the female portion where the OEM fan sensor goes. Since this made it sit up a bit higher than I would have liked, I used a die grinder to remove as much material as I could around the sender to get maximum flow. I ended up with most of the sender getting exposure to coolant and the last inch or more getting direct contact with the coolant. I know this isnt ideal considering it's after the thermostat, but I get acurate readings and a nice, fat guage to keep a watchful eye on my fresh rebuild.
Pic:
Last edited by Shainiac; 02-11-08 at 06:15 PM.
#39
Looks ahead!
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I apologize for the ambiguity of my past posts.
Also, for future reference the gauge I use is a autometer pro-lite electric one with the aluminum look face.
#40
I knw wht u did last sumr
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http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I would still recommend this gauge though. Digital rocks!
#41
Looks ahead!
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It wasn't me, it was the poster before me.
Also, my gauge is in this series:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+400442+300168
but I have one that is like 1 7/8" and I don't see anything that small there.
Also, my gauge is in this series:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+400442+300168
but I have one that is like 1 7/8" and I don't see anything that small there.
#42
Greddy as well as few others make this, might be worth the $25 if you want to keep the stock sensor as a backup. Buddy Club
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...700+4294843215
http://www.frsport.com/Greddy-Radiat...mm_p_9267.html
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...700+4294843215
http://www.frsport.com/Greddy-Radiat...mm_p_9267.html
#43
The Blue Blur
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sweet, finally hose adapters i have been putting off getting an aftermarket gauge cause i was afraid to drill into the water pump housing, i had one crack on me before driving down the interstate, that was fun, i realize it was prolly just a fluke, but what can happen will happen, and im not lettin that happen again, i cant afford all these repairs lol
#45
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Alright.since this thread is resurrected.I have a Hose "adapter" that will allow me to put a Temp Sender into this Piece and place it in the Rad hose..the Question I am Posing is Which Hose DO I put it in?..the Lower or the UPPER hose?.I don't wish to drill the water pump housing,and I would like to keep the stock sender in it's location..Thanks Guys,STYX..
#46
Rotary Freak
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Definately the upper hose. The lower rad hose has already been cooled off by the radiator, so the temps are irrelevent to the actual temps of the motor. The only problem with having the sender in the rad hose is that in the occurance of a thermostat failure (ruined one of my engines), the gauge wont tell you anything. Upon starting the car, the gauge reads cold until the thermostat pops open and then the temps climp quickly. I usually just keep an eye on my stock gauge until the car is warmed up and my aftermarket gauge is reading. Other than that and the fact that this is one jumbled, ranting post, my gauge works great.
#49
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Okay, i have my pressure cap on my radiator which is the one my overflow tank is run to and the one on the thermostat neck is just to close a hole now, could i just unbolt the plate the pressure cap is on and then take a blockoff plate the same shape and weld a nut with the right sized threads for my sensor and put it there? would this be an OKAY place to put it, i dont want to go drilling holes in stuff thats hard to remove, please dont tell me the pump housing is the best place, i understand that i just flat out refuse to drill any extra holes in anything.