NZ_87_TURBO

when i installed my new eng i swaped on a polished water pump from some guy i know. It has the water thermo sensor and the temp switch on the top.
My old water pump had both of these plus another sender unit next to the water thermo sensor. i cant remember if it was pluged in or not but what could this be?
i ask as my car still isnt starting. it cranks and almost starts ( it is firing ) but wont run. ive got gas and checked my spark ( good) im pretty sure my timing is sweet as i havnt changed it since it stopped running ( after my flywheel swap ) my afm is sweet ( checked ) and so is my fuel pump.
I think my TPS is fucked . was reading 1.8kohms at idol ( untouched ) and i couldnt get a reading at all when i moved the throttle and held it. I was using a digital reader with a new battery. but apparently the car should run with out even having the tps plugged in...? is this correct? does this mena it should run if its fucked? or just if its not pluged in???

i am yet to check my water thermo sensor and air temp sensor ( will be doing tonight ) but they are both plugged in.
I will take a video tonight of me trying to crank it over so it may help some more.

NZConvertible

S4 and S5 have different water pump housings with different sensor arrangements and different thermostat covers. Both have the the ECU thermosensor on the back of the water pump. The S4 pump housing has the e-fan thermoswitch on the top of the aluminium 2-bolt thermostat cover. The S5 pump housing has the e-fan thermoswitch on the back next to the ECU thermosensor and has a plastic 3-bolt thermostat cover.

None of this has anything to do with the engine not running though. The thermosensor is the only thing that effects engine operation, and if it's bad the ECU will ignore it and assume the engine is warm. This might make starting harder, but shouldn't prevent it. Same with the TPS, even if it's bad the engine should start fine.

Are you sure it's not just flooded? Try clearing the chambers out (leading plugs out, EGI fuse out, throttle open, crank for 5-10 seconds) and maybe try a small squirt of engine oil on each chamber.

NZ_87_TURBO

hmmm. ok so maybe it is flooding. do you think the fact that it has a stage 2 port on the secondarys and is still running everything standard else could be causing it to mis calculate the air mass/ fuel mixtures for idol/ start up.
i havnt replaced my plugs but i did clean them and turn the motor over while the plugs were out for a listening comp test.
just to confirm i havnt done anything stupid. the rear rotor ( closest to fire wall ) is rotor 1 right?? ie my L1 and T1 leads goto the rear rotor?

NZConvertible

No, it shouldn't have any effect at all.

Nope, just like a piston engine the rotors are numbers from front to back, so L1 and T1 go to the front rotor. This doesn't actually matter for the leading plugs (wasted spark, both fire at the same time) but it does matter for the trailing plugs. Connecting them the wrong way round will result in the mixture being ignited far too early.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

and L = LEADING = LOWER
T = TRAILING = TOP.

NZ_87_TURBO

Awesome!!!
HAHA i had my leads on backwards. **** knows wherei got the idea that the rear rotor was number1!!! the car started up last night anyho with a fully charged battery. maybe my idol issue is coming from my leads being the wrong way round!! i just wana go home now and change them. what a drama.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

If it still wont start once you switch them, try unflooding it. It could be flooded as a result of the backwards wires.

NZ_87_TURBO

yea i think i will unflodd it first then see what happens when i goto start it up.
thanks for the help NZ vert
us kiwi boys gota look out for our own aye!!
another question while its up here

at idol my oil pressure ( stock gauge ) is sitting down by the bottom line ie like no oil pressure, as soon as i give it gas it builds pressure straight away and goes upto where it should be. ive just been searching this also.

HAILERS

What can I say. *The Lead plugs fire at the same time*, is one thing I could say. Matters not the placement.

Another thing I could say is *it matters where the Trail plugs are*.

I could say *get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what It reads. That is the way to go for checking oil pressure.

I could say that the afm is NOT used during START. An internal *map* is used by the ECU during Start.

NZ_87_TURBO

and i could say wtf are you talking about?
i will get a mechanical oil pressure guage and maybe a new sender unit also just to be sure.


and why are you telling me this? it is helpful info for sure but im still confused.

i noticed i also have a vacum leak to as my vac pressure was sitting a about 7psi ( i'll get some ether adn find where it is ( hopefully not under the UIM )

NZConvertible

No worries mate.

Check the wire clipped onto the sender. They're often losse and/or caked in dirt and oil, and this causes a bad signal. I got much better readings after cleaning and tightening mine. I eventually replaced it with a VDO mechanical gauge and found the stock gauge had still been reading low.

The attached photos shows the best way to find vac leaks. This showed my TB is leaking at the front, so off comes the UIM. Dammit...

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Could you go into some more detail about that? Those pictures help, but I'm still not sure what the hell is going on. Compressed air?

NZ_87_TURBO

yep. hes pumping compressed air into the turbo which will flow through the system and come out of any leaks. I think im gona have to do this also. Is that just a 3" PVC cap in front of the turbo. i dont have a compressor but i'll borrow one.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Kinda what I thought. Where would you suggest doing it for an N/A?

NZ_87_TURBO

it cant hurt aye

NZConvertible

I got the idea from this website. I used a PVC end cap drilled and tapped to take brass fittings with a gauge and air line connector. This replaces the TID and allows me to pressurize the whole intake system. The PVC crossover pipe replaces the TMIC so I can actually see stuff (and also make idle adjustments to a running engine). After weeks of trying to locate a suspected vac leak, this showed me exactly where it was in a matter of seconds. As soon as I cracked open the valve on the compressor I heard the hiss from underneath the TB. It only took a couple of psi to show up the leak. At ~15psi one of the unglued joints in the crossover pipe popped apart with a loud bang...

Remove the AFM and insert it into the intake duct. You may need to find something that fits the plastic duct better, as it won't clamp down easily like silicone does.

It's actually a 50mm end cap, which has a 70mm OD. My 3" silicone coupler clamps down onto it fine. I flogged it from our work store but any plumbing or hardware store should have one.

I highly recommend buying one. Small ones suitable for home garage work are quite cheap, and can make your life easier in so many ways. The cheap air tools on TradeMe are great too. Dunno how I lived without it...