Warning Lights fuse location
05-05-10, 04:47 PM
#1
Warning Lights fuse location
I found this in the FAQ
My clock/idiot lights don't work correctly or the clock doesn't hold memory when the key is off
Probably the fuse is blown or you have cold solder joints on the clock/idiot light panel.
And thats what's happening on mine. The idiot lights come on when i power on the car, but don't report anything while the car is on. and the clock doesn't come on. The quote above says the fuse - but i didn't know which one it was because the fuse box doesn't have one called "internal lights or anything". and I didn't see a pic about the spot to solder if thats what I need to do.
My clock/idiot lights don't work correctly or the clock doesn't hold memory when the key is off
Probably the fuse is blown or you have cold solder joints on the clock/idiot light panel.
And thats what's happening on mine. The idiot lights come on when i power on the car, but don't report anything while the car is on. and the clock doesn't come on. The quote above says the fuse - but i didn't know which one it was because the fuse box doesn't have one called "internal lights or anything". and I didn't see a pic about the spot to solder if thats what I need to do.
05-05-10, 05:01 PM
#2
The 7.5A Room fuse feeds the warning lights, along with many other things. If it were blown the warning lights would not come on when you turn the key to the ON position. You would also have no interior lights, etc... When you say they never report anything, they stay blacked out no matter what you do? The lights for the handbrake and seat belts should be the two you would see most. You can test some of the others by messing with sensors. The low coolant sensor wire for example can be disconnected to make the light & buzzer come on. Some (like the low fuel light) will probably not work at all, since the sender tends to break down and stop working.
05-05-10, 09:17 PM
#3
okay. if i am looking at this right, since i dont have a fuse box cover, and took these pics.
the yellow one at the top in the second pic is what i am guessing is the ROOM one, but its got a 20AMP one in it. Also, in the other pic, when i removed it, that spot is raised or something somehow. not sure whats up with that
and a 20 fuse in a 7.5 amp spot might be whats messing it up right?
the yellow one at the top in the second pic is what i am guessing is the ROOM one, but its got a 20AMP one in it. Also, in the other pic, when i removed it, that spot is raised or something somehow. not sure whats up with that
and a 20 fuse in a 7.5 amp spot might be whats messing it up right?
05-05-10, 10:01 PM
#4
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The LID for the Under the dash fuse panel is Shown in one of the STICKY threads on the top of the Sec Gen specific section,.That should help you and tell you which fuse is what.
05-06-10, 05:46 PM
#7
okay. swapped out the fuse for the warning lights. it had a 20 amp and i dropped a 10 in there. someone had put little shims in there cause it was a loose fit for the fuse, and when i would try to put the 20 amp back in, it would spark. unplugged the battery and pulled those pieces out and bent the fuse connectors together and it fit fine.
warning lights still dont work though - so where am i soldering?
warning lights still dont work though - so where am i soldering?
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05-07-10, 10:59 PM
#9
Replacing a 20amp fuse with a 10amp doesn't tell you anything. Fuses are there to protect the circuit in case of a short. It would work the same with a fuse of any size. You didn't answer the question I asked before. As for the clock, you can desolder/solder any joints that look poor on the warning light circuit board. With the board in your hand, it is easy to see where the clock connects. Like I said already, if the warning lights EVER turn on, there's nothing wrong with their connections to the circuit board.
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