I just want to restore my compression numbers to near new numbers.

how much am I looking at just in parts.

I tried mazdatrix but I didn't know how much of each part I needed.

I have labor taken care of. I have a reputable RX service location here in town that I have thoroughly checked into. I feel they can do the job very well. They won't charge me labor if I help them.

Also how long would a compression rebuild take to complete?

Thanks for the replies.

 

ive gotta do the same, my oil seals are broken and compression sucks. i raced an autox at clemson this weekend and you could see how bad i was smoking. here the site: http://people.clemson.edu/~brewerk/novAutoX/ my car is under pleasefixme.jpg! its about $1000 for all the seals and gaskets. i plan on doing it myself and porting it out. should be fun. it sure is expensive though.

 

Im fixing up an 87 NA too. I have found that Mazdatrix is very helpful with novice mechanics and getting you the right parts. download thier price list and browse. And read a lot in this forum you will learn a lot. Also there is a thread about beefy NA's its got all the mods I think in there. I wouldnt do the carb conversion tho too much hassle.

I was jusyt gonna slam a T2 into mine but... think Ill find a clean T2 to start with and turn it into the super clena project car. Use my NA to "cut my teeth on" as far as fixer uppers or restorations go.

 

When you disassemble and engine to "just" do a compression rebuild it will take the same amount of time as if you were replacing every seal. The entire engine comes apart the same either way. If your "just" going to do a compression rebuild you might as well do every seal. If the people that are going to help you for free don't recommend purchasing a rebuild kit with both hard and soft seals, I would question there ability to correctly rebuild an engine.

I'm saying this from personal experience. I "just" replaced the side seals and apex seals and reassembled an engine. Sure, it ran when I was through but it locked up 4 months later. It was probably something I did wrong or simply missed by not throughly doing the job. If I had done the entire engine properly I would still be driving the car.

 

id recommend doing it before the motor blows if you think that its on its way out. if a seal does blow or somethin then it may cost much more when you do it. i spent about $1400 on all my parts and also did it myself. might as well do it right though while you have it apart. i replaced all seals and bearings and everything. that price also included a new rear housing and 3mm seals so if you do it while the motor is still good your lookin at bout 1100-1200.

 

sorry. that price also included new rotor and main bearings which is also worth while to replace if you have it apart

 

I would ask a couple of the reputable rebuilders people us in this forum as to what you need as far as a rebuild went. But personally I would change out everything I could while I had it apart.

 

If your not going to end up changing everything, get someone to thouroughly inspect the seals to make sure they are ok... occasionally if the condition is good, you can reuse apex seals...(3 of the apex seals in my engine were off a t2 that blew with 150 km on the engine!)

STILL RUNNING STRONG !

 

Comment to niner, just tore my engine apart, and the front rotor is the one that went. totally worthless rotor and even more worthless of a rotor housing , but the rear rotor housing was scrapped really badly, missing the chrome surface everywhere, so bad I cant even use it. All the seals in the rear rotor were still in tack. Sometimes if the motor is on its way out, its already to late to get some rotor hosuings that are good. Of course you will save yourself the cost of a rotor. Unless you like seeing an Apex seal driven in the side of a 9lb cast iron rotor...

 

inspect, inspect, inspect... that is what you really need to do. especially on your rotors and housings. check for any chips and dings. you need to know what is tolerable and what's not. if your motor is blown... oh man do you need to inspect, inspect, inspect... otherwise replace with ALL NEW PARTS. now if u would like someone else to do it, pm me. good luck


see ya,

car 53

 

I do not skimp on anything for my car. I'm poor but I would rather wait until I have the money for a good part then settle for shadetree mechanic quality.

What I am saying is this: I planned on changing all seals (because most seals in the car effect compression as they wear), using 3mm apex seals, using new springs and everything. Nothing overlooked. I want to restore the compression ratio to its original numbers (9.2... I think). Right now I have lost 1/3 of the compression on the car. I'm running in the low 6's (approximately 6.2 kg/cm^2 on front rotor and 6.1 kg/cm^2 on rear). I will replace all seals.

The man that is going to help has been working with rotaries since the late 70's. He's VERY knowledgeable. Knows every nook and crannie of that damn engine.

The car is in no danger of blowing up and it runs great. I'm just graduating college and want to catch up on all the things I missed out on while I was studying. I want to start by rebuilding a reputalbe sports car with a heritage. I chose the might REX!!

Anyway, that was just a little background information on why I want to rebuild my car.

I'm going to buy a second car when I start this rebuild (if my fiance will let me.... she's kind of picky about how I spend my time).

Mods include: RB down pipe and presilencer, RB Y-pipe and stainless steel mufflers (I might add they look great and sound great too). KYB-AGX shox, RB springs and anti-roll bars.

My car handles great in the corners I just want the original punch of the engine to be restored (I don't have any complaints about it now... I'm just really picky).

I appreciate the posts. I plan on spending about $1300 to rebuild it!