like the title says.....im wondering the effectiveness of the walbro using the stock pump wires.....i have the FD alt and normally i dont see anything lower than a 13V with everything running lights, radio, heater blower, stepping on breaks.....so would there be anything else in the circuit that would lower the actual voltage that the walbro would see?.......

im planning this to go with my 550/750 with rtek 1.7

 

me too

 

check the voltage... if its the same as the batt then it shouldn't be too bad...
fatter wires (lower gauge) wouldn't hurt thow... just to be sure
whenever i install a fuel pump i figure its a good time to relocate the batt too

 

yeah thats in the works..but 1) no money to buy a sealed batt box, 2) no time 3)want to fix the flooding problem asap with some new 550/750 rtek 4)i know i'll screw it up trying to rewire...somehow...

 

does the pump turn on when the key is turned to the second click or only activates when u crank.....i dont seem to get pressure when the key is in the notch right before the crank..but as soon as i crank the engine theres pressure.....is this normal?

 

I thought the stock wiring for even the stock pump was crap, something about only being able to supply like 9v when it should be 12, thats why everyone does the fuel pump rewire mod.

 

rewiring is not hard and a very very very very very very very very very very very very good thing to do

 

I would say it depends on the condition of the wiring. I've checked mine numerous times and find voltage to be as required. Why would I want 12 volts running the pump all the time if there is no problem. The only reason I can see why everyone does the rewire is that everyone thinks the wiring deteriorates with time and should be rewired. Do the test then proceeed.

 

No the fuel pump rewire is to remove the voltage drop that is controlled by the maf and injector resistor pack. These two items drop voltage to the pump to increase fuel economy and shut the pump of if there is no air flow through the maf. And No the pump will not run unless cranking the motor. You can force it to pump if you jumper the test wire on the passenger side strut tower under the hood.





Correct me please if I am wrong

 

Sounds right to me.

There is also the added benefit of have a completely seperate line of some beefy gaged wire to supply voltage/grounding.

Honestly the wiring on these cars SUCK! The crimp points at some places are ok at best.