Very rough idle... Popping and spluttering!
10-17-17, 07:57 AM
#76
Full Member
Thread Starter
Video footage of rear cylinder:
View My Video
Apologies for the quality, I really needed 3 hands for this job.
It 'appears' that all 3 Apex seals are there, plus tons of carbon.
Thoughts?
View My Video
Apologies for the quality, I really needed 3 hands for this job.
It 'appears' that all 3 Apex seals are there, plus tons of carbon.
Thoughts?
10-17-17, 10:07 AM
#78
Full Member
Thread Starter
Doesn't look like I can get MMO too easily.
I've spun the engine over and used a screwdriver (wrapped in cloth) to push in on all the apex seals, and while some were stiffer than others they all moved.
I did the same both cylinders.
Had a good go at getting it started again, it nearly does. It will kick once or twice and then no more, at which point I have to do the deflood procedure, it will then kick a few times and rinse repeat.
I've spun the engine over and used a screwdriver (wrapped in cloth) to push in on all the apex seals, and while some were stiffer than others they all moved.
I did the same both cylinders.
Had a good go at getting it started again, it nearly does. It will kick once or twice and then no more, at which point I have to do the deflood procedure, it will then kick a few times and rinse repeat.
10-17-17, 11:28 AM
#79
Penis Healthy
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Doesn't look like I can get MMO too easily.
I've spun the engine over and used a screwdriver (wrapped in cloth) to push in on all the apex seals, and while some were stiffer than others they all moved.
I did the same both cylinders.
Had a good go at getting it started again, it nearly does. It will kick once or twice and then no more, at which point I have to do the deflood procedure, it will then kick a few times and rinse repeat.
I've spun the engine over and used a screwdriver (wrapped in cloth) to push in on all the apex seals, and while some were stiffer than others they all moved.
I did the same both cylinders.
Had a good go at getting it started again, it nearly does. It will kick once or twice and then no more, at which point I have to do the deflood procedure, it will then kick a few times and rinse repeat.
10-17-17, 12:04 PM
#80
Full Member
Thread Starter
I've got a couple of things left to try, but failing that I think the tow option will be the best.
10-20-17, 04:30 AM
#81
Full Member
Thread Starter
Update for anyone interested.
Tried to tow start today, at around 3.5-4k in 1st gear with the foot flat on the floor it would slowly catch up the tow car, but would die if let go for even a second.
So that was my last play, and its rebuild time.
Tried to tow start today, at around 3.5-4k in 1st gear with the foot flat on the floor it would slowly catch up the tow car, but would die if let go for even a second.
So that was my last play, and its rebuild time.
10-20-17, 02:57 PM
#84
Sucker for Punishment
The problem is your engine is blown. You've determined this already. There is no need to tow it down the road. Time for an overhaul. End of story.
You're trying to play Thunderstruck without a B string. Go buy a B string
You're trying to play Thunderstruck without a B string. Go buy a B string
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 10-20-17 at 03:01 PM.
11-17-17, 05:16 PM
#89
Full Member
Thread Starter
Well the engine is half stripped down, thought I better show you guys what I found:
As you can see, something has stuck the side seal, causing damage to the rotor and sticking the middle of the seal into place, I've no idea how something has managed to get to that particular place, even if I dropped something down the intake, (despite stuffing it with rags etc to stop stuff dropping in) I've no idea what could cause such a clean bit of damage, its still surprising that something managed to hit there, but not the apex seals.
The housing is perfect, almost as new condition.
However the centre iron:
at a distance, not so bad, but close up.
With a bit of luck I can grind that fair again at least re-use the iron. But I suspect that rotor is finished.
As you can see, something has stuck the side seal, causing damage to the rotor and sticking the middle of the seal into place, I've no idea how something has managed to get to that particular place, even if I dropped something down the intake, (despite stuffing it with rags etc to stop stuff dropping in) I've no idea what could cause such a clean bit of damage, its still surprising that something managed to hit there, but not the apex seals.
The housing is perfect, almost as new condition.
However the centre iron:
at a distance, not so bad, but close up.
With a bit of luck I can grind that fair again at least re-use the iron. But I suspect that rotor is finished.
11-17-17, 07:26 PM
#90
rotorhole
you may run into oil burning issues as the outer oil seal sweeps over that spot and the outer oil control ring does most of the oil sweeping duties, IMO that iron is a brick but the rotor looks salvageable.
something had to manage to get into the intake, unfortunately it happens even if you are careful sometimes.
something had to manage to get into the intake, unfortunately it happens even if you are careful sometimes.
11-17-17, 08:42 PM
#91
Full Member
Thread Starter
you may run into oil burning issues as the outer oil seal sweeps over that spot and the outer oil control ring does most of the oil sweeping duties, IMO that iron is a brick but the rotor looks salvageable.
something had to manage to get into the intake, unfortunately it happens even if you are careful sometimes.
something had to manage to get into the intake, unfortunately it happens even if you are careful sometimes.
I'll see tomorrow if the front rotor is the same.
As for the rotor, I'll have to see what it looks like after I get the rest of the seal out. I may have to do some careful fettling with a needle file.
11-17-17, 11:18 PM
#92
rotorhole
there is only 2 oil seals, the outer 3rd channel is a carbon catch/slinger. the renesis is the only rotary that incorporated a 3rd oil seal, mainly due to the side port exhaust potentially burning the seals so it acted as a buffer.
you can get the seal out by cutting an old short apex seal spring at a 45 angle, straightening it and clamping it in some channel locks and light tapping it through the channel to dig out the seal. may take a few tries but it looks savable to me.
you can get the seal out by cutting an old short apex seal spring at a 45 angle, straightening it and clamping it in some channel locks and light tapping it through the channel to dig out the seal. may take a few tries but it looks savable to me.
Last edited by insightful; 11-17-17 at 11:22 PM.
11-18-17, 08:31 PM
#93
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
I'm betting the oil burning wouldn't even be noticeable. I've seen so much worse run and run just fine. Something definitely got caught between the rotor and the intake port. You have found your problem.