looks like im getting the Air Pump with the ACV being $4 extra

I will check the FSM for the steps too - and thanks for youyr help so far satch

 

now that i think about it... will i need to be prepared with any gaskets or anything?

 

Why don't you hook up the air pump first and then check the condition of the ACV that's on the car already before replacing it or am I missing something here?

 

na, you didnt miss anything. my feeling is, since i have 300k anyway, an air pump for $30 is worth it since it will have half the usage mine does. and it ACV was $4 extra so i figured what tha heck.

at 300k - EVERYTHING has less miles on it. ha

 

It's your car but if the current ACV checks out well then I wouldn't replace it with a $4 part. It's best to replace things as needed for it might open a can of worms if you choose to do otherwise. Again, it's your car.

 

okay. i'll look in the manual for the testing method for the ACV and test it. it is probably easy since it's on top of the motor.

 

To test the Relief valve of the ACV (there are three valves overall) all you have to do is remove the bottom hose of the ACV that runs to the area "underneath" the air box. So we're talking about the hose is disconnected "at" the ACV.

Start the car and get it fully warmed up and idling and feel for air coming from the outlet of the ACV where you disconnected the hose and you should barely feel air escaping from the ACV outlet.

Then go to the other side of the car where the emission solenoids are (driver's side) and unplug the two wire connector to the Relief solenoid. This is the Blue connector and the solenoid that is closest to the front of the engine (looking at the solenoids from the driver's side and it's the one on the far left).

Then go back to the same outlet where the hose was disconnected from the ACV and there should be a full rush of air coming out of the outlet. Then replug the two wire plug disconnected from the Relief solenoid and the air coming out of the ACV outlet should go back to a trickle. If the ACV does this then that aspect of it is working okay. The air pump needs to be connected and running to do this test.

 

what is the "initial set coupler" and the "BAC"?

 

the information you seek...can be search for, rather than asked for, see abv. in the common asked questions. also download the fsm if you plan to do repair work to your car.

 

Because I'm bored:
-The initial set coupler is a diagnostic plug that tells the ECU you're making adjustments and not to fight them.

-The Bypass Air Control (BAC) is a valve that the ECU uses to allow the engine to suck more metered air when the computer wants to control the idle (for instance, during cold start or AC operation). It is not an emissions device.