affinitee

The situation started on a spirited run....
I was pushing out 6000 rpm in 3rd gear, then I started to slow for the sign, on deceleration the car was fine... but when I stopped, the idle of the car started to lope really bad like the car lost a rotor.... but when I accelerate the car has normal power...
I pulled the plugs and they look o.k.,but I noticed the L plug on front rotor has a small knick out of the surrond....Replaced all plugs....
I had a hard time starting the car, so I pulled the harness under the dash waited for car to start to fire then plug it back in....
Once the car was running, it still had a really bad lope in the idle, I advanced the timing and the variable resistor so the car would stay running, I checked vaccum hoses with wd-40 to see if car would rev if a vac leak was found, all of the upper hoses are fine.... Replaced with silicon hose.... But when I sprayed wd-40 under intake cars idle increased and idle returned to normal.....

I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the Vaccum hose spider under intake???? If so, I could use some info on what gaskets to order so I can tear of the upper half of the engine off!!!!

• 88 10th Ann Fc3s
• K&N Intake
• Magnecor Wires
• 3" Es Design Downpipe
• Dynomax High-Flo Cat
• Tokico Shocks
• Eibach Springs

SpeedRacer

You'll want to get the expansion chamber to upper intake gasket, as well as the upper intake to lower intake gasket. Also you'll need to get the o-rings and grommets for your fuel injectors which will need to come off. And since your going to be down there, you might want to pop off the lower intake and replace the lower intake to engine gasket, but thats completely optional. Mazdatrix has all the gaskets and the o-rings and grommets you'll need. Give yourself a good 3-4 hours to do this if you've never done it before. And be careful not to drop anything in your intake manifold or you'll have to fish it out. The fuel injector grommets tend to want to fall out when you remove the injectors, and the lower intake runners are right below the injectors.

Chris Ng

places that can leak under the dynamic chamber (upper intake manifold)

1-Fuel injector grommets
2-Oil injector hoses
3-Sub-Zero startup hoses
4-there is a nipple between the secondary oil injectors that plugs back to the rear of the throttle body

Gaskets you'll need (if the old gaskets are no longer any good) - intake manifold gasket ...

That's it..I'm not sure how speedracer has managed to remove the lower intake manifold to replace the gasket there without removeing the turbo.. it's only 4 bolts.. however the turbo does get in the way... alot yourself a few more hours if you are going to remove the lower manifold.. and expect to find the turbo to manifold gasket cracked..

affinitee

UPDATE!!!!

I have decided to take apart the intake to look at vaccum hose spider today, but I still didn't find a problem....
1. Pulled upper intake off
2. Pulled primary fuel rail
3. Pulled Vac hose spider

I need to know what to do to make this worth my time....
Since the car is dismantled, I want to know what I should clean/adjust/replace while I have the car down this far????

I plan on replacing primary fuel injectors.... I'm not sure what the correct cc for the primaries???
Plan to replace Vaccum hose spider....
Plan to replace oil metering lines while down there as well, What is the correct way to remove them? (Factory Service manual does not describe this...)

Chris Ng

If you don't plan to drive the car in the winter, or can afford to let it warm up at idle for awhile before driving off you might want to concider rerouting the coolant hose that attached under the TB back to the line from the BAC, or cap the 2 ends up completely.. this will make life easier when resassembling and if you ever have to dismantal it again (I do this weekly) .. while you're at it, concider removing the secondary throttle plates, thermowax etc...

Stock injectors on a T2 are 550cc for both primaries and secondaries.. these are high impedance injectors.. you should see 13ohoms across the terminals.. if you plan on getting larger injectors for more fueling, concider sending your stock secondaries to RC eng. to have them just bore out your stock to 750.. this will save you from having to wire resistors (since 95% of 750 injectors are low impedance units)..

To remove the oil metering lines you'll have to unscrew the oil injectors out of the block.. easy enough to do .. and while you're at that, check your oil injectors.. check to make sure the oil injectors arn't leaking air thru the checkvalve.. you should be able to blow through the injectors, however you should NOT be able to suck any air outta them.. use a hand pump if you have one handy..

if you ever wanted to clean out the throttle body or the intake manifold of all the baked on crud and carbon deposits, the best thing I have found to have worked is permatex gasket remover.. becareful of this stuff as it strips paint.. just spray the insides on the TB and intake manifold .. let it sit for about 10 minutes, then take an old toothbrush and brush away the grime.. make sure you wash the units out with alot of water when you're done..

SpeedRacer

Thats easy...I have an NA ...I didn't notice that affinitee had a 10thAE..sorry!