barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

So im looking for advice on how to setup my rad for the v mount

so the basics:
I have a 3 inch intercooler
and a stock rad

and I have two ideas

1) is to drop the rad in its stock location down 3.5 inches and have half of an inch between the rad and intercooler ..... the issue I see here is that the underside of the intercooler is open to hot engine air .... to get air to it I plan on running custom ducting from the TII hood to the top of the intercooler and possible a duct between the rad and intercooler

OR

2) i tilt the rad forward so the top is close to the pulleys and the intercooler is flush with it and then run ducting on the side of the rad back to the front of the car and I would probably still run the custom ducting on the TII hood to the top of the intercooler or get a reverse vented hood

let me know what you think

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

any advice?

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Option #2 is your better option. If you're running an electric fan, you should be fine (don't forget toe FULLY bleed that puppy!).

The only thing you'll be looking at is (obviously) different lengths of pipe (both charge and water).

The bracketing is pretty common sense, so all you'll really need is time.

bumpstart

option 3
retain the original radiator angle
just make a frame which pushes the entire assembly rearwards
so that the bottom outlet is nestled in the bump in the sway bar
and the intercooler fits in the space provided right down to the brace to the bonnet latch

-- i have a very large intercooler !
it has 3 inch outlets,, and the car is running 2.5 inch piping
the silicon 90 bends are reducers down to 2.5 inch
( and doesnt lose any diameter due to the 100 degree angle )

and all this fits with minimal cut and shut and ultra short pipe work
- despite the large custom radiator pictured
i have had the stock,, and the ASI radiator mounted here
the frame is made with multiple captive nuts suit either

my front bar remains unmolested ,, all i have cut is some of the side gusset for the original radiator support
and the only extra required beyond the visible flat bar
is i have used the rear hose from a 12a oil cooler line on the front to give a longer line to suit the revised oil cooler position

all the cooler airflows are independent and parallel and not serial into one another
- nothing shares 2nd hand cooling air

PS
my oil cooler is flat mounted from the bottom of the radiator forwards,, thus forming a bottom "V"

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Except the OEM radiator angle isn't vertical, it's actually sloped forward, isn't it? Mine is, but we already know my problems.

I think he was asking if slanting it back, he'd be able to make the bracketing to set the FMIC in where the rad top was sitting (without the fan shroud, and an E-Fan, you've got like, 2' of space).

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

^ This is what I did. Works great.

https://www.rx7club.com/members/nick_d_tii-14272-albums-srt-4-intercooler-3687/

bumpstart

that one i have pictured is mounted using the original angle,, if it looks vertical, the pic angle is misleading

- yes most V mount setups reverse the angle on the radiator
but this now makes issues for the hoses and outlet angles

- mines doesnt,, when fitted with the original radiator used the same hoses ,albiet trimmed
( and incidentally the already offset fitted thermo fan to clear the motor pulleys )

there is all sorts of ways to do it,, good, bad , better, cheaper
but weigh up the cost and the effort and the permanent changes that may be required to the body
- and dont disregard any drawbacks


-- the reversed angle method may demand a custom radiator or outlet angles and hoses
its also going to potentially alter the original factory head tank height ,, with issues that shouldn't be discounted
--1:like potential unusual after shut off thermo cycling
-2: after shutdown heatsoak raising to soak the intercooler above it
-3: fill up air traps that will require burping and potentially filling three times over a week to chase a persistent bubble

it may also demand more radical cuts the to body frame , speculative, cause no one has seen his design
but definitely typical when you look at how others have done it previously


if you make the simple frame and retain the factory angles,, you retain the original header tank height
you retain the original hoses and radiator ( not s5 as the filler may hit the P/S )
and you free up demonstrated large area forward to the latch brace , large enough for very large coolers
( formed by the skirt panels behind the bumper that is easily sealed with foam strip )
- yes - more forward than any intercooler fitted with a reversed radiator
--but in no position to take any of the radiators heat,,, especially due to that original angle



i found this one allows the easiest fit,, the least drawbacks , lowest initial cost,, and potential later for very large radiators
as pictured above,, the radiator i have customed ( with a curved outlet out the bottom of the bottom header tank )
is very much larger than stock,, and the ASI early rx7 crossflow

since i have fitted it,, i havent got the motor above 180 F !!!
( methinks its time to undo the bypass block off and re-instate the thermostat !! )
[[ aussie perth == very hot driving conditions in summer ]]

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

No thermo? Any benefits there?

bumpstart

MFR water pump have the bypass hole deleted and the thermostat removed for maximum flow through to the radiator
- there is absolutely no chance any of the hot flow kick-back through the bypass hole and does another lap of the block

no thermostat = longer warmup ( who cares i run LPG ) but much faster recovery from heatsoak runs

do not delete the thermostat unless you bung the bypass hole under it with a 1/2 NPT bilnd fitting

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Right on. The S5 housing that I just swapped to didn't have one, so I put the one from my old housing in it. Should work fine.

bumpstart

umm unfortunately the ealier s4 FC ( two bolt thermo neck ) has the thermostat that is compatible with all the older 13b and SD 12a's

the later 3 bolt thermoneck indicates the 8 bolt water pump ,, and these use a different thermostat

the change comes in mid 1988 and some very late s4's copped the changeover,, but the s5's all have it
-- indeed the lower water pump outlet angle is revised to clear a s5 EOMP

the thermostat for these is cheap,, and is the FD one

you MUST use the rubber gasket ring around its circumference for it to seat and seal the bypass hole

also note that if you use the 3 bolt top,, you MUST have a late s4 radiator,,, or a s5 one,, else you will lack a fill point

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

A v-mount is what is picutred above^^^

A V-Mount set up's point is to push air up through the radiator/intercooler and out of the vented hood. V-Mounts are common uses for a car that dose no idle or is not daily driven. The reason is that there is no e-fan to circulate the air while out waiting at the stop light or suck in traffic for 30 min to an hour.

1) Hot engine air is one of the last problems because you will mostlakely be moving forward( as explained above that the v-mount is ment for a car that is constantly moving). How will you get air to the radiator, cut the bumper up? Ducting, E-Fan?

2) Whats cooling the Oil cooler and radiator(air)? is the angle angled enough to get sufficent air flow?

Im not home at my computer but if you search v-mount you will find pictures of others set up, notice that they are well ducted and angled properly

A v-mount is what is picutred above^^^

barnett87rx7

iTrader: (1)

thats a good idea except my intercooler is just to big to fit in there but thanks for the advice everyone