Upgraded Turbos and Timing Retard
#1
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Upgraded Turbos and Timing Retard
I was just curious to know if you guys that are running bigger turbos
Such as a BNR upgrade or other aftermarket turbos.
Are you guys retarding your timing at all, and if so how many degrees?
The reason I am asking is because I spoke to Brian at BNR, and he told me
that I should retard my timing by six degrees running the stock or upgraded turbo. I have never retarded my timing on the other two Turbo-II’s I had previously owned. I was running basically all the basic bolt ons such as, full exhaust with down pipe, intake, colder plugs, “9’s all the way around”; 720’cc injectors in the secondary, stock ic, stock fuel pump, Magnecore R-100 plug wires, and never running more than ten or eleven pounds of boost. I never had a problem at all. Also my EGT gauge was reading 1400 to 1450 at WOT. He told me anything over 1400 degrees is lean and pushing the limit.
I know you have to retard timing when you’re running high boost for example.
I figure for a stock turbo timing retard is not necessary with the above mentioned setup. Can anyone please clarify this?
Such as a BNR upgrade or other aftermarket turbos.
Are you guys retarding your timing at all, and if so how many degrees?
The reason I am asking is because I spoke to Brian at BNR, and he told me
that I should retard my timing by six degrees running the stock or upgraded turbo. I have never retarded my timing on the other two Turbo-II’s I had previously owned. I was running basically all the basic bolt ons such as, full exhaust with down pipe, intake, colder plugs, “9’s all the way around”; 720’cc injectors in the secondary, stock ic, stock fuel pump, Magnecore R-100 plug wires, and never running more than ten or eleven pounds of boost. I never had a problem at all. Also my EGT gauge was reading 1400 to 1450 at WOT. He told me anything over 1400 degrees is lean and pushing the limit.
I know you have to retard timing when you’re running high boost for example.
I figure for a stock turbo timing retard is not necessary with the above mentioned setup. Can anyone please clarify this?
#2
I got the same reply from Brian regarding my BNR turbo and I've been reading and re-reading this thread:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=41915
It's a good read but I'm the type that needs to re-read **** 4, 5 times before it sinks in. Still re-reading it but here is a Quote:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=41915
It's a good read but I'm the type that needs to re-read **** 4, 5 times before it sinks in. Still re-reading it but here is a Quote:
Originally Posted by RXtasy
On turbo charged engines ignition timing plays a mayor role, because combustion temperatures are much higher then N/A engines the ignition split needs to be greator, to prevent detonation, basically running a little to no split will increase combustion temperature, for N/A that is fine, but for turbo charge is dangerous, since your dealing with elevate combustion temperatures already from boost.
I have played with all kinds of timing advance. a 12 degree split will land some power and maintain reliability.
Fuel octane is also very important, On 116 octane I have used up to 19 degrees BTDC for leading with 32psi of boost and 7 deg. for trailing with no detonation and making well over 650rwhp on a friends drag racing car. Using 93 octane I keep leading down to 15-16-17 deg. btdc with a 12 deg. split and depending the amount of boost.
I have played with all kinds of timing advance. a 12 degree split will land some power and maintain reliability.
Fuel octane is also very important, On 116 octane I have used up to 19 degrees BTDC for leading with 32psi of boost and 7 deg. for trailing with no detonation and making well over 650rwhp on a friends drag racing car. Using 93 octane I keep leading down to 15-16-17 deg. btdc with a 12 deg. split and depending the amount of boost.
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At 11PSI the extra fuel keeps you good.
It's when you push it up more that timing gets critical.
I have pushed 14 on a cold morning, but I knew I was on the verge of an unpleasant event. (scary fun)
It's when you push it up more that timing gets critical.
I have pushed 14 on a cold morning, but I knew I was on the verge of an unpleasant event. (scary fun)
#6
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
I have a BNR stage 4 running 7 psi and 720's seconds.
My AFR's are 10.2 on top end... but my low end is hella lean like 14 +-
EVen at stock psi levels would it be more important to retard low end?
My AFR's are 10.2 on top end... but my low end is hella lean like 14 +-
EVen at stock psi levels would it be more important to retard low end?
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