Ok, this morning I gave it a good wash and then started it up, let it do the warmup process, and then it sorta wanted to die so I kept the rpms at 3000 for about a minute or two and it finally idled at 500-, but it was steady and sometimes had a few blips -

Nick, FlyBy116 said that when he loaded it onto the truck the air/fuel mixture was like 1 bar over rich when it was warmed up... well I drove it for about 5 miles and it stayed at 1 bar in the LEAN section... NOT GOOD!!! I've found an English version of the S-AFC manual and still don't know how to make it more rich than it is... I need help! I still have yet to get a smooth start from a dead stop... I can drive a stickshift, but this is extremely difficult and I always seem to bump a long for like 3 seconds (If it doesn't die) before I take off...

I'm taking it in to Firestone to see if they can fix the vaccuum leak, considering I have no idea as to where in the hell the hose is or how to fix it! Nick you should have done it for me man!!

Please, if you know how to enrich the fuel mixture with the S-AFC, that would be great of you to PM me or something... I have no idea what "Lo cam and Hi cam" or "Wide throttle and Narrow throttle" means!! Thanks guys, I REALLY appreciate it.

 

Don't take it to anyone that doesn't work on RX-7's. You need to learn stick baddly if you bump along for that long. If the S-AFC is leaned out then someone probably changed it when it was being shipped. The vaccume leak could also have been cause by the shipper I am sure that Nick would have fixed it if he knew about it beforehand. In any case you are acting like a spoiled child with a broken toy. Now get your butt to reading and investigating the vaccume leak. There is more than enough information to keep you tied up for a week on this board concerning vaccume leaks and wierd idles.


Santiago

 

Have you tried adjusting the idle? The little screw on top of the throttle body adjusts the idle. It's covered by a little rubber cap.

 

i would check all the connections to all of the sensors, make sure everything is tight

something could have loosened up on the trip over

 

Hmm Ill be on AIM tonight when I get time and try to help you out. THe starting part though...yea...takes practice I told you the car might be hard to start lol. But the A/F gauge is reading funny now. Maybe jsut the O2 sensor went bad..not sure like I said it was all cool before it went. But tell me what happens.
Nick

 

Hmm Ill be on AIM tonight when I get time and try to help you out. THe starting part though...yea...takes practice I told you the car might be hard to start lol. But the A/F gauge is reading funny now. Maybe jsut the O2 sensor went bad..not sure like I said it was all cool before it went. But tell me what happens.
Nick

 

Not sure if it's reading funny or not... damn the trucker if he messed it up!! Oh, and 1987, I'm not a spoiled child that has a broken toy, I just don't really have the time to search thread by thread for bits and pieces... everyon else that posted on this thread had no problem... chill man!

 

Stop screwing with the S-AFC, if you have a vac leak, it WILL READ LEAN.

 

SonicRat is right. And thats why I told you not to touch it! lol

Nick

 

Dude, I haven't been messing with it, all I've done is watch the cool monitor modes...

Nick- You told me that it was rich whenever you put it on the truck, so obviously, since it had the vac leak then too, it wouldn't be the cause for the lean fuel.

Just took the car to a Mazda dealership to get the leak fixed and the A/C!! Nick you never told me that the A/C didn't work you little ****! hah...

 

A/C does work man! Let it run for a few min its not like a new car were its ice cold the first sec!
Nick

 

A/C? Who needs A/C!? Anywho, the reason not to mess with the S-AFC is because the vac leak could've EASILY gotten bigger, or something else could've popped off, so don't play with it, find the leak, fix it, find the other leaks, fix those, then start playing

 

I, for one, needs AC.

 

Nobody asked you assrat. (Note this is NOT directed towards assrat) Did you check for leaks with the carb cleaner like I said?

 

What are you talking about?

 

LoL... assrat, good one sonic...

Sonic- I didn't try the carb thing, I don't have any carb cleaner, I'm no mechanic... I'm 16 and my dad doesn't know **** about fixing cars, especially rotaries. I took it to a Mazda dealership to get it checked out...

Nick, I let my dad drive it around to see how he likes it, and he loves it!! The engine was plenty warm considering we drove it for 15 miles... Still wasn't COLD, but it was slightly cooler than the outside air. I need A/C for when it gets up to 105 Degrees in Oklahoma!!

Anyways, The Mazda dealership should call back with pricing and stuff tomorrow, I'll let you know how that goes, and thanks for all your help!

 

I think theyll charge you an arm and a leg or maybe make some rediculous claim about something else wrong with the car. Hope you find a solution.

 

Most likely, but what else am I supposed to do? Nobody that I know is good with rotaries -- I know two that own them, but hell I've owned mine for 2 days where as they've had theirs for like 6mo. -- I already know more than them!! (They aren't members here, the morons)

 

Just because you're 16 and don't know anything about rotaries doesn't mean you couldn't have easily found the vac leak problem and fixed it yourself. Have a little faith, this isn't all that hard. You just go buy a can of carb cleaner at a gas station/walmart, and start spraying around the engine with it, aiming at seams & hoses, and you're bound to find it eventually, come tell us where it's at, and we direct you to what to do. Simple.

 

Do I just spray the stuff with the engine running, and wait to hear a difference?

 

Yep, you start it up, get it to idle at whatever it will idle at, and then start spraying (try to avoid spraying directly on exhaust manifold as sometimes that causes flames) Just spray the hoses, around the intake manifolds, on the inlet duct, etc, eventually you'll come accross a spot where if you spray, the engine will rev up and smoothen out, you can hear it. Easy

 

Ah I see... thanks for the info!

I can't get the car to idle at all, It would die, I guess I would just have a friend keep it at a steady 750rpm..

I'm so illiterate on this engine stuff though it's not even funny... Exhaust manifold I think I know where it is and I have located it (sort of a blue tint from the installation/welding) No idea where the intake manifold is, inlet duct or any of that I guess I just need a diagram or something...

 

Inlet duct is just the pipe that connects the air flow meter (by the air filter) to the engine itself. Intake manifolds are they grey/silverish things with 4 tubes (runners) on them, (this is the upper intake manifold) if you follow that you'll notice it's bolted to another one, this is the lower (on the passanger side of the car, right above the exhaust manifold/header/whatever)

 

thanks Sonic, you're a cool guy... sorry for my dumbness...

Any of you can raise the n00b flag if ya want, I won't be offended!!