good wire diagram viperdude. its all pretty much the same thing you just are either using the ecu or an rpm switch.

do the airhorn pumps have internal bleed vales? i thought people were having problems getting the ports to close after the pump turned off because there was no where for the air to go with out making an external bleed valve? if it work without any valving than an airhorn pump will work just fine, but the lumbar pums already have mounting straps

oh and for the part numbers, there are at least a doven different numbers they will show up under since they were used in many different fords over the years. i think the nly real differences between them will be the shape of the mounting strap, but the pump itself should all be the same whichever you can get your hands on.

 

I am running a very simple set up also and it works well. This is what I am using a MSD RPM switch and a common 12v lighter plug tire pump I cut the lighter plug off wired in a relay (MSD) to the RPM switch put in an adjustable RPM pellet and plugged in the Air line to the line coming off the valves this is where my only two problems with it arise 1) the two hoses keep separating (going tochange to one solid line from the pump soon) and 2) The pump has a valve core in the side of it that you can remove to release pressure I just have it backed out a little so the pressure will bleed off (I know the 35+ psi pump puts out way to much) I need some kind of BOV or check valve or relief valve of some sort any suggestions

 

hey i am currious, do you get the error codes for the 6pi/vdi solenoids being missing or do those not popup since you have the wires still hooked up to something?

 

speaker wire will howl power fine as long as you aren't sending more than the gauge can handle, i know my speaker wire see's more power than most wires in my car

 

the last time i pulled codes the aux/vdi didnt come up (but all my other emmisions stuff did, hehe) as far as the ecu is concerned its the same thing, since a relay is baisicaly a solenoid that just opens a circuit instead of a valve. i think it just looks for continuity, and as long as you have that you wont get a code.

 

this is the advantage of the lumbar pumps!!

they have an internal bleed valve that keeps them from overheating when running for extended periods, it cant overpressurize or blow out tha actuators, and also lets the actuators close very quickly once the pump is turned of. it realy simplies setting a rig like this up.

 

Okay I know I'm a knoob for asking this but whats the big deal about the air pumps? I understand they open the auxillary ports on an S5 like mine above a certain RPM but what is the advantage of using an electric over a belt driven one besides the minimal power drain on the engine?

 

Cleans up the engine and some people see it as more reliable.

Also, its good for S4 people who don't want to worry about backpressure to open up the ports.

 

can some1 repost the diagrams? whats everything (emissions wise) you can take off going this route? and for s5 owners can we use the rpm switch? it seems the easiest way imo.

 

I run a Lincoln air suspension pump in my s4, and one of the things I'd say is don't get Radio Shack relays. They are junk. I've blown out at least 5 of them. They are not robust at all--they are supposed to be 30 amp but they die really easily.

Granted, part of this was due to happenstance or my own mistakes. I blew a 25 amp fuse one time from the battery to the relay (which powered the pump) and the relay died. Other times it just randomly died on me, but it could have been because I had accidently put the wrong wires into the wrong terminals. It's easy to do that b/c the numbers are hard to read on there. My alternator died and it mysteriously blew out the relay again.

Finally I said **** it and bought a Bosch universal relay at Carquest. It looks very much like the radioshack unit but hopefully will hold up better.