Ishibubu

So I bought an Rx-7 about 2 months ago. I was excited as can be but I found out a little while after I had jumped to conclusions. I bought a 1990 GXL/GTU with a TII motor in it from Japan. Everything was great when he was showing me the car, it wasn't until I brought it home that I saw it's secrets. First thing I had done was got the oil changed and had my dads friend who races 1st gens check it out.

Heres what he said:
He said the compression was fine (cant find the exact numbers right now)
Driveshaft U-Joints are bad - Have TII Driveshaft just need LSD
Has sort of a bouncy idle
Right front wheel bearing is bad
Needs tires
Trans Cross Mount broken
Thermostat is bad (may need a wire)
No A/C, P/S
Speedo Cable missing
No converter
No air pump
Camber is off on the pass. tire (top angled outward, not terribly but it is)
I believe there is an oil leak, I forget exactly where he said.
And the car smokes, pretty much the whole time it's on. Dark gray/black smoke when under boost, whitish gray when idling.

I received this list and my jaw dropped. I had a DD at the time so I kinda shrugged it off and tried to sell the car for whatever I could. I am now in need of a DD badly and have turned back to this car. Only one problem... It no longer wants to crank.

I'll put the key in and turn it to crank position but all I hear is this click, the lights come on but the engine doesn't turn over. I have no idea how this randomly happened because one day it was fine, next day it wouldn't run. I have also been hesitant to run her because the coolant needs to be changed and honestly I can't even find it, I think I have but the cap doesn't say anything about coolant.

I'd like to know what my issue could possibly be because i'd like to get it started, change the coolant, fix the camber if possible and run it on my old DD tires 205/16/45's and hopefully make it my DD until I can find a project I can handle.

Any help is appreciated, I'm still a newb in the rotary category. No matter how much I've read when it came down to it I just don't know what I'm doing.

freemanrx7

Try and find someone local who knows these cars and will help you.

PICS?

Ishibubu

Don't have to many engine bay shots let me see if I can find one.

I figured my dad's friend but he bailed saying it wasn't going to be worth his time.

Also there was this odd box hooked up to the thing that regulates fuel that was making it run super rich. He took it off, and then after that it wouldn't really hold an idle so I put it back. I'll take pics of that later but here's what I have:





Battery Relocated

DavidHolmesIII

Wheres the AFM?

Chance

Did you check the main 100 A fuse under the hood? I got in my car one day and it wouldn't crank at all, only made a clicking sound when trying to start it. The main fuse ended up being blown somehow.

Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

What a nice job they did re-locating the battery, I love how the ground terminal is halfway on the battery post.

I'm 90% sure that the battery "re-location" is why you have no juice. Check your cables, if there is a problem it'll likely be obvious.

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

the AFM is there....it's an S5.

dot_txt

iTrader: (1)

A voltmeter will go a long way in this case.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Damn...

First things first, add coolant at the top of the radiator. You can see your radiator-cap at the end of the "neck" sticking off of the radiator. Check your oil and make sure the level is good.

I would find some way to temporarily mount your fuse-panel upright and away from your spark-plug wires (I see it just dangling).

You should also look into repositioning and securing your throttle-cable so it also isn't just hanging like it is.

Check all the couplers from your turbo, intake and intercooler and make sure all the clamps are tight.

Do a SEARCH in this section for "setting TPS" and then set your TPS (throttle positioning sensor) correctly to make your bouncing idle go away.

Also check the numbers on your air-flow meter (AFM), pressure sensor and your ECU. Pull up the passenger side carpeting and remove the metal plate below where the pass. feet rest. It would be nice to know what components were used when the person did the swap. Tell us the numbers on these three items.

I would also consider purchasing a used (stock) clutch-fan and fan-shroud to help cool your radiator. Judging by the rest of that engine-bay, I wouldn't trust that fan to be hooked up correctly or work properly.

Also look into buying a "dual belt pulley" for your alternator. You only have one belt being turned by the engine because there is no airpump, AC or power-steering. This is bad because this belt will want to "slip" and make squealing noises and want to burn itself out. If you get a dual-belt pulley then you can run an extra belt with your alternator (right next to each other) and they will help to keep everything tight without slipping, even with the A/C, P/S and A/P removed.

Take pics of this "fuel box". I'm guessing it was maybe an FCD... (fuel cut defenser) and that when you removed it, you forgot to plug the pressure sensor plug back in, making your car run poorly.

FuStEr

looks kinda bad, how much you pay?

Ex-Eg-Driver

iTrader: (1)

Atleast it starts...for now.....MUAHAHAHAHA!!!!

VacavilleFC

wow what a hack job, the fuse box is just dangling there

arghx

iTrader: (3)

It's too bad you need this car to run right now. If it were me, I'd either pull the motor or tear it down to the bare keg and check/replace all the wiring, vacuum lines, everything.

Ishibubu

I paid 1500, stupid mistake but it was supposed to come with tires.

Sketchy sellers...

I'm tryin to see if it will be worth putting money in to. I'm not sure how good of condition the body is in, the control arm on that pass side is different than the one on the drivers. Also the pass door has trouble fully shutting if you don't hold the top and the middle and close it.

I believe it may have been into a wreck. But the frame looks ok. I'm contemplating putting the money into this car or buying a TII shell for 700-900 that doesn't have interior problems etc.

I work today but i'll try to do some of the smaller things you guys have suggested and take the pictures of the FCD etc.

P.S That's an old picture of the batter, the ground terminal has been fully attatched now.

FuStEr

hope it goes well for you

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

three letters

P O S

areexdrift

+1 ^

whereiscarmensandiego

its not that bad everything looks prety easlily fixed its just that u are gonna have to do some reading and learning on rx7s and get a shop manual. nothing towards u but u didnt even know where the radiator cap was ,u got aways to go.
7vens require lots of maintenance to run properly,theres nothing wrong with having one as a dd but it takes knowlede to kepp one running in tiptop shape.

and it appears that everything has been thrown together to make a quick sell. i would go over it with detail before i would even drive it on the street.

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

seller made out nicly on this one..if you just bought it i would call him back and return that car asap after all those things needing replaced..everything looks half assed too i wouldnt drive it untill i went back over all drivetrain components re torque wheels etc...that is a death trap my friend. all i have to say is the exterior must look a whole lot better than that engine to pay that price for her.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

+4

freemanrx7

You should read as much as you can off this site. I learned all I could and did a rebulid on a TII in six months. I also did a lot of mods along the way. One thing at a time.


Here is what an rx7 engine should look like (S4)

Ishibubu

I know I made a mistake. I kick myself in the face every day. The engine was supposed to be the best part of the car.

LAN

iTrader: (1)

You paid $1500 right?


Show some more photos. Exterior/Interior Etc.

evasive_one

This could be a nice little $1500 learning experience..
Looks like you got some work on your hands but it can be fixed with time and knowledge.

red_dragon

iTrader: (10)

dang that is a POS. I also got ripped off with my S5 GXL. Tranny, driveshaft and clutch were shot, and coolant hose blew up...but at least the engine seems ok... lock nuts on the wheels were stripped too =(

I hope you get this sorted out one way or the other.