hi im in the middle of a project, building a turbo motor for my 91 gtu. the basis is a factory reman 6 port that is getting a balanced rotating assembly with FD rotors and a big port, including bridging the 6 ports (which will be wired open).

i've decided on the manifold i want, and i've been looking into this stud kit. there doesnt seem to be many high quality alternatives to JHB's ridiculously overpriced stuff. i was going to have extra/enlarged dowel pins installed on motor, but its not really worth the time to do it myself (and possibly wreck the motor), and about $1300 worth of machine work.

i've been looking into getting a set of these because they're pretty cheap and look like high quality: http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=52863

if youve ever purchased head studs for a v8 or v12 you know how expensive this is. its almost that much to stud an inline 4, so i guess for a low cost alternative its worth trying, i've seen too many irons that had incurred rotor slap on stock NA motors.

i decided on these because i already bought a manifold from 1revvin7 that is top notch in every way. i bought it cause its the only t04 manifold i know of that will clear the s5 LIM
not to mention it looks great and these coatings seem to be the real deal

anyways thats the basis of my setup. i havent purchased or sized a turbo yet, i was thinking a 60-1 but im not sure what A/R's to go with. boost should come on fast (obviously), so im thinking something big. this is my first time ever sizing a turbo for a rotary engine, so i could really use some input. right now im thinking 720cc for primary and secondary, but im not sure yet if i should go for something bigger on the secondary. i will be running either e6x haltech or an aem SDI box when its available. i would like to have a reasonably smooth transition to boost, and am shooting for 380-420rwhp

 

Holy ****.

 

Forgot to add this in, almost said it in another thread. Did he custom build that for the NA block?

 

that exhaust mani is beatiful ;D
TwEaK

 

Are you incredibly rich?
Or incredibly stubborn?

Why are you modding an NA block for this project?

Why didn't you go with a 13BT motor?


-Ted

 

higher compresion means more horsepower and faster spool with less boost. DURRR

 

well couldn't you put the n/a rotors in a turbo motor?

 

Why the hell didnt you go with a turbo intake manifold if your going through all that work???

 

He is using a 6port motor with FD rotors. So I don't see what this higher compression faster spool thing has to do with his 6port block. I say this is best of both worlds. Alot like the rx8 6port vs. 4port auto. The 6 port makes more HP from the increased flow and revs. I don’t see why he would want to hack up a TII LIM to fit the turbo when he can use a proper LIM-UIM combo and space it with the manifold already. I am as well moding a 6port motor like this.

That is also 1revvin7's stud kit. You can get a stud kit for a little less $ here http://www.gurumotorsports.com/ You said you want to enlarge and have it machined so are you saying your going to heli coil the whole motor and use like 12mm studs instead of 10? Is this a full blown race motor? I would much rather heli coil all the 10mm be cheaper and do the same job, just as well.

 

Uh because the Turbo II intake manifolds are designed for forced induction captain obvious. Hands down they have the best flow for forced induction, second only to the custom manifolds SonikRat makes. Not to mention they take up less space so the turbo doesn't have to be mounted in an ackward place.

 

well i guess im just trying to do a different sort of project, and yeah i was thinking along the lines of the 6 port motor having more flow, and bridging the 6 ports seems like it would be more streetable to me than a traditional bridge.

as far as sticking with the na intake manifolds, it'll make it easier to pipe in a front mount, and i dont want to half-*** putting a t2 UIM on it. i work with very high end autos (horses and bulls) and just wanted to do something different, have access to a flow bench if we have to port out the manifolds. 1revvin7 designed the manifold to work with turbo motors or na motors. you have to block off emissions but for this kidn of project youd be stupid not to

as far as the stud kit, 1revvin7's is cheaper than guru's at $350 shipped (theirs is $395 before shipping), and you do have to machine the entire motor to fit theirs (12mm studs vs. the stock 10mm studs). his will bolt right up with no additional work. when i was talking about enlarging and machined i meant for the dowel pins, but i could just do the studs for 1/3 the price.

 

Thats actually pretty cool. Didn't know Revvin came up with a manifold, he mentioned it months ago on AIM once, then he hasn't been on.

 

If you're spending this much money, ditch those stock intakes. Go with twin 55MM TB's.

 

Working on that

 

A question for revvin7...How much for the manifold? And a question for anyone that knows... what do you do about oil and coolant lines for the turbo if you use a N/A engine?

 

You tap the oil pan have lines made and pull coolant from the lower rad hose or tap the pump housing.

 

*drooooolllll* beautiful!!

 

Don't tap the oil pan, tap the damn front cover.

 

$800 shipped

 

well going to punch the oil pan for the return. you can tap the front cover yes, the spot is there just like a turbo motor but its not punch out. thinking about simply using a sandwich adapter on the oil pedestal though.

 

Is it really that hard to drill/tap something?

 

dont you need to remove the cover for sake of shavings?

 

The only thing about drilling the front cover is you have to take off the oil pan, which is a little bit of a pain in the *** for these cars. But if you have access to good tools, it'd be a lot easier. Like a ratcheting box-end wrench...

Back on topic, that seems like a pretty good setup. A 60-1 with, say, a .96 or 1.05 hotside should get you your goal of ~420rwhp, so long as you have good tuning. But if you're looking at that kind of horsepower, I don't think four 720cc injectors are going to cut it. You might want to do four 1000cc injectors. That way, you can also have a smoother transition when your secondaries kick in.

 

I agree, what is the flipping point? If you're now using FD rotors, why not just start with a 13bt and port it similarly? Or even a 13btt as your starting point!

 

Hopefully this project that is being done to be "different" doesn't turn out as poorly as my last "different" project.