turbo and na MAF
 

i need a new MAF for my s5 GXL, but the MAF for the turbo2 is way more common.
can i use the turbo2 MAF or does it have to be the MAF?
the dealer has different part numbers for the two... but...

might run a little leaner. n/a maf is way more common as turbos are rare. find someone doing a turbo swap and pick up their old one for dirt cheap.

The voltage scales are different. Your engine is not worth the risks involved with tweaking fuel and timing calculations in random ways. As mentioned, there were a lot more S5 NAs produced than S5 turbos here in the US.

or you can go megasquirt and run without one

ya but im a broke college student, cant afford it, maybe in the future
plus i work at a jiffy lube (worst paying job ever)

then why are you driving a t2 rx7?

how do you know your TPS is broken ?

and ... I'm with SirCygnus, you are a broke college student, you should be driving Civics. not RX7

For ur original question, yes its 2 part numbers, but its just the bracket and a "slightly" shorter wire for the turbo.

if u read my original post its a GXL not turbo2

civics are for women and children and im neither.

you can buy NA tps for cheap, maybe 30-50 bux ?

but do they work? most likely yes. I bought a new one because I don't want to spend time to check.

it is also for "broke college student"

sad but true.

ya i bought a working an tested one off ebay
but i will never never never never never own a honda and be stereotyped as a ricer

and rotoryrocket88 answers the question and doesnt give bullshit comments

props RR88

owe did i hurt your fellings?

Where are you getting TPS from? On a side note i'm a broke college kid and i drive a fd.

This got off track... I have a s5 n/a maf if you want to buy it. I have 2 of them I'll ship you. There junk to me, but still work. I'm running haltech. If your aren't turbo don't buy a n370 maf. Get N350. Being broke you can still get by..

Oh yeah, Also have a spare S5 tps, as well.

What is your car doing? Why do you think you need a maf?

there was one on sale on ebay couple weeks ago and sold for 35 bux shipped.

just need to look

its surging at idle, ive eliminated vacum leaks with new gaskets, hoses, injector seals, and then tested twice, adjusted TB fast idle, thermowax and TPS, bypassed the fuel pump resistor relay with jumper wires, cleaned out and tested the BAC. I did change the stck airbox to a cone filter and heat closeout but doubt that would cause this
you name it ive probably done it.
and my MAF fails resistance tests via FSM.

I can't post Ebay link but there are some MAF for sale on ebay right now.

I had one a while ago but I sold it off.

i dont know if i trust them to work.
in your opinion does it sound like thats the culprit for my idle surge?

to be honest, there is no way to tell.

not trying to judge your diagnostic ability, but it could be out of spec and you don't even know it.

try to see if someone local willing to swap the MAF with you at a local meet, then you will know if that's the cause (MAF)

its a quick swap job anyway.

anyone on here that lives in phoenix (prefferably east valley) with a S5 N/A that will let me try this out quick?

You didn't get what i said the OP was talking about a MAF not a TPS....

does THIS not tell you everything. you need a new s5 n/a AFM, i would also test the AFM(not MAF) while pushing the plunger in and seeing how erratic the scale is, if it Fails ANY FSM test, replace the sensor.

And to answer.. Your question, Yes a n370 will run a n/a s5. if you need to move the car or just use it while waiting on a new n350. I had to run a turbo AFM on my 90 vert for about 3 weeks. after my oiginal AFM seized up(water damage). don't drive it hard, but you would be fine.

I also didn't read where the fuck(pardon my french) he said he needed a TPS.

thanx, not MAF but AFM good to know.
i do need the locknut for the adjusting screw for the TPS, i beleive its m5 x .5, correct me if wrong.

notice my other post.

can anyone confirm the S5 TPS adjusting screw thread pitch?

check your trailing coil pack to see if you are getting spark.

the screw that adjusts the TPS goes into a metal bracket that is on the throttle body shaft, i don't believe there is a lock nut. that bolt/screw is probaby M6x1.0.

i know its way finer thread pitch than 1.0 just by looking at it ( no metric thread pitch guage :()

the diameter of the screw with a caliper is 4.95 mm
that would be a metric size five correct?

Didn't I give you the measurements from an S4 TB before? IIRC, the adjuster screw was M5 x 0.5. I used a feeler for it. And as mentioned, there is no locknut (at least not on any TB I've seen). The spring tension keeps the screw from moving.

ya but doesnt the spring tension keep the screw from turning in but not from backing out?
and i havent been able to find a m5 x .5 nut, so im thinking maybe thats wrong
and mazda parts fiches show a screw, spring, and nut

it's m5 x 1.5. 1.0 is 1 thread per 1 mm. .5 would be 1 thread per two mm.. 1.5... is 1.5 threads per MM!
i've looked at it. reminds me of the threads of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts.

above you say 1.0 is 1 thread per mm, and then 1.5 threads per mm
:scratch:

sorry your wrong, from eying the screw the distance between threads is like a half mm or less.

http://www.zytrax.com/tech/mech/threads.htm

i dont drive my car right now cause i want it to run correctly before i do
i result to chevrolegs and the bus

but RotaryRocket88, so your FC doesnt have the nut im talking about, and the screw doesnt wiggle (with the vibration of the engine) out of correct adjustment?

S4 NA TB. M5 x 0.5. The piece on the bottom isn't really a lock nut. It's completely round, and looks more like a boss welded onto the metal. I'm not sure it comes off. It may be different on an S5 TB; I don't have one to take a picture.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1303446434

thanx RR88
but if there is somthing to hold the screw from backing out, im still convinced i need a locknut (prefferably a ny-lock)
cause mine has nothing. and with the slight vibration from the engine its probably gonna back out a little over time (i would think 50 miles or so).
the spring puts tension on the bolt threads and that tension is against the threads of the threaded hole its in, but i would think its not enough tension to hold it in the exact same place. correct me if my logic is wrong.

ok now swaped out the AFM and readjusted the TPS and it still bounces.
this is driving me absolutely crazy!!!
(and theres no check engine or codes)

Did you jump the green connected by the battery when you adjusted you tps

i heard it really doesnt make a difference so i did not.
but i will do it again and jump that test connector.

jumped the connector and re adjusted the TPS, it still bounces.
i noticed when i turn the AC on it stops?:scratch: ive cleaned out and tested the BAC.

could the leaqding coil not being in the car cause the idle to bounce?

Wait, what? You're running off the trailing coil alone?

ya, why is that bad?
and it passed emmisions like that.

The question you should be asking is why would it be good?

The leading coil does most of the work. If you run off the trailing coil only, you're running with severely retarded timing since it fires later (under most conditions). That will cost you power.

These are S4 TII timing maps, but you can see that split is as much as 15 degrees: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/stock-s4-turbo-timing-maps-warning-those-stock-ecu-943159/.

the leading coil gone is just temporary, but could the leaqding coil not being in the car cause the idle to bounce?

I can't imagine it would idle well. My suggestion would be to replace your missing coil, and then go from there if the problem persists.

im currently negotiating with a member and also ebay, i just dont wanna pay 400+ for a new one from mazda