Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

OK if you saw this thread and said OMG it will never end then.....

I know!!!! WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So I have 66 miles on the engine so far.

I have been doing small drives around my area.

The car responds well under the secondary injector rpms.

Now here is the shitty part.

I noticed it last night.
After about 15minutes of surface street driving of 0 to -10hg 2-3k RPM driving I parked the car. The turbo was a little redish and glowing!!!!!

SO!!!!
WTF?

I have a Walbro and cleaned and tested 550's.

If you know my previous thread I had a HUGE problem with the rear rotor primary not injectiing fuel.

I have since then retested and crimped all my connections.
The car now starts up every time like a champ.

This is confusing me. Why would the turbo be glowing? I shoudl have more than enough fuel. The injectors can't just half work can they???? It's either injecting or not right?

I can get the car to idle at 1k RPM right now so it's not really an injector problem??

OK and second part of weirdness.
At 3.8k RPM the car does a kick/bog and then passes the 3.8 barrier ok. but it is REALLy slugish to achieve a higher rpm.


Any thoughts?

My only other one is that maybe my 3an restricted down feed line is starving the turbo of oil? I might put the stock feed line on as a temp/variable in my equation to rule that out.

PLEASE HELP ME! I am on the home stretch of a 8 month turbo conversion from hell!!!!!

White_FC

Timing too retarded?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

C,

What RPMs are you taking your timing readings from?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

timing retarded would do the opposite.

The timing is at 6 degrees. So it is one degree advanced from stock. I haven't retarded it more because I would have to restab the CAS.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Dare I ask again? WHAT WERE YOUR RPMS!!!!

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I got the timing down to 900-1k.

I know it retards after 1k. I'm damn close to stock timing though.

I doubt even being 5 degrees advanced would do this.

I'm starting to wonder if the engine is fine but the turbo may now not be getting enough oil due to the 3an setup plus restrictor.

Any one care to chime in on symptoms of a oil starved turbo?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Not good enough C... You NEED to be at at least 850 or so. After that, your not getting good timing.. My guess is, your WAAAAAAAAAY advanced still.

White_FC

I beg to differ on this...
Overly Retarded timing = high EGT's

Overly Advanced timing might also give higher EGT's aswell, i'm not sure on that though, never heard of that happening.


Ps- I thought the ECU _advanced_ timing after idle speed? (<850rpm?) and only retarded it via vacume/boost settings? thats what i'd imagine it would do anyway.

Bukwild

my 89 jspec turbo did the same thing and I was as scared as you are. but I picked up my car from Landers last Saturday and now the turbo smoke during start up like a bitch and I think it just means that the turbo is getting starved of oil and is starting to go. I would amagine it could be rebuild but I already have a full to4 going on mine when breakin is done

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

WTF!

it retards timing below 1k!!!!

AHHHHH! I just set my timing at ~500 rpm.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

**** I have to drive it to work today since i don't have a ride.

I am going to try and restab the CAS to reduce timing as much as I can for now and then I am probably going to put the sdtock feed line on.

Man that gives me an hour and a half to shower,eat,clean the house, then install parts,then drive to work

Bukwild

oh yeah. Don't have your t2 as your daily driver. Ah you will learn.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

The TII will be reliable once I get the thing running right.

This a turbo conversion which has taken 8 months to even get in a running state.

Everything I have for it is reliability mods.
Koyo,Rebuilt turbo,rebuilt engine,cleaned injectors,walbro...

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

well I can't check timing because I don't have a light right now.

I just swapped oil feeds and the exhaust started smoking so I did have enough oil on my newer setup. Time to put it back on and then move onto restabbing

If that doesn't fix it then I have injector problems still

pip

Or he could get the thing running right and it will be a great daily driver.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

bump on second topic.

At 3.8k RPM the car does a kick/bog and then passes the 3.8 barrier ok. but it is REALLy slugish to achieve a higher rpm.

It feels as if the car gets load added to it.

In neutral just reving it will to the pause/hesitation real quick bu then surpass the 3.8 mark.

Any thoughts?

Is there a way to check the inecjtor duty cycles? My multi meter isn't quick enough to really monitor it right.(old 90's Fluke)

Rex4Life

I'd say there could be two things causing this and both are fuel.

First, a rebuild typically has lower compression so this means you are getting less efficient combustion and some of the gas is burning in the exhaust/turbo. All you can do for this is get some more miles on your engine and build up better compression. Follow Kevin's break in procedure and stay off the boost.

Second, you may be running a little rich due to the Walbro. Check your fuel pressure going into the engine, it should be ~28 psi at idle and ~37 psi with the FPR pressure line disconnected (running or not). The Walbro overran my stock T2 FPR and was pushing about 6 psi more than required. This causes you to run rich. I put in an Aeromotive FPR and have had no problems since. Again, the extra unburnt gas ends up burning in the turbo.

Of course, under heavy sustained boost some turbo glow is normal, but based upon how you said your were driving, I would say that is not normal.

HTH,

Scott

White_FC

Sounds like a definite secondary injector problem.

Solution? Most probably is to buy some new injector connectors, if you havn't already. They're only about AUD-$8, so it's sweet F.A really, and I had a problem very similar to yours, it would run past 3.8krpms but felt like it wasn't happy about it at all, checked these connectors, they LOOKED fine but however, inside one of the 'prongs' could be pushed in/out so it was only sometimes making contact with the injector... Very annoying...

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input.

Some unburnt fuel in the turbo is a good idea.

I've got about 66 miles so far on the engine.

I kept the FPR solenoid and get 38psi at startup.

I'll check the inline gauge and see if it drops to 28psi(Don't think it will).
If it is this pump ovre pressurizing then a inline FPR shoud fix it right?

I like this thought or me being pig rich more than me leaning out.
Makes more sense with my setup.(Walbro,cleaned 550's)

I am following Kevins write up since he built the engine. So far it starts every time(other than instant shut down/hotstart)
During actual load I don't bring the engine over 4k rpm.
I try to stay in negative pressure but the turbo wants to go due to me down pipe,presilencer,and catback.

I ran a voltage test the first night my car ran. In neutral/parked.
I got a constant rythmic drop in voltage from the primaries(not quick enough to get instant drops but a pattern occured)
I then rev'd it over 3.8k

The injectors were getting 13V and would start the same pattern as the primaries. SO they do inject. I will do a voltage test again to see if a huge drop occurs at that point which the secondaries kick on and the car jerks/bogs(you can physically feel it!).

The EFI harness has been tested and I cleaned the terminals twice. I used a needle and cleaner.

I will swap ECU's tonight to see of maybe it's EFI map related.

yungChris

HEY Bro ur Air fuel mixture is bad..
u gota rebuild or get a new turbo now and exhaust and Oygen sensors

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

sorry dude but read threads next time.
the turbo and engine are brand new. i have a high flow exhast and an O2 sensdor is not needed to actually run(i have one though)

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Well I tried redoing my timing but I ened up screwing it up. Timing is somewhere between ok and limbo land of advanced.

Now I have to find the right timing again. Then move it one notch over.
Now tell me this. If checking timing over the 900rpm mark. You guys say it adjusts timing.
Does it retard or advance?I assume retard.

Second. When I initial set the timing(align pulley right most mark and the mark on the CAS) I can only get the timing a little close to 5degrees. I usually hit the end of the adjust point and then have to restab. I then end up being too retarded. Any tips or tricks????

In between timing checks(hot start wouldn't restart) I checked my boost sensor voltages.
This is where I noticed my Vref wire had a single fray making a connection.
I kind of got 5volts from it.
I got 12v and a ground fine.

The output to the ECU was showing between 2.8-2.2volts.

I have since then cut the boost sensor plug off and am splicing in a new connector from a Jspec harness I have(much better condition).

I don't know if this could be a contributing factor to my glowing turbo but at least I am fixing it.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Well I got timing back to where it was exactly. I can't get the car to idle under 1k so I am at 5degrees at 1k rpm.

Now for the interesting part.

My fuel line is seeing 40 psi any time. Idle/start up/driving

So I am assuming this is why the turbo is glowing. Too much fuel going in.

I have the FPR solenoid still on but no other vac rack things.

If i put the FPR solenoid on backwards would it cause this?

I think I will try and circumvent the FPR solenoid tomorrow night.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

OK i rerouteed the FPR vac line so it went right to the LIM not and didn't go through the solenoid.

The fuel pressure was now at 45psi.

So it seems like the FPR isn't doing it's job then right?

That means I need to go get a S4 secondary fuel rail and a FPR right?

Please respond asap since I might have to go to a junk yard today.
thx

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Do I have to get a full S4 rail system of can I use my S5 primary rail????

Also can I use a NA rail or is it secondary rail specific since they are mounted differently?