Turbo engine > turbo transmission > turbo rear end
Turbo engine > turbo transmission > turbo rear end
How does the NA rear end (diff, half-shafts, and stubs) hold up when running a turbo engine and transmission with a turbo-na conversion drive shaft?
It's easy to find a turbo engine and tranny but a complete rear end is a lot harder...
It's easy to find a turbo engine and tranny but a complete rear end is a lot harder...
The na transmission will only hold up to about 200hp, and a stock t2 engine is very close to that.
You can adapt everything to turbo but essentially you'll want to eventually put everything all Turbo, if not you'll be blowing drivetrain parts if you're doing hard launches/shifts on the na stuff.
Rotary >Pistons
You can adapt everything to turbo but essentially you'll want to eventually put everything all Turbo, if not you'll be blowing drivetrain parts if you're doing hard launches/shifts on the na stuff.
Rotary >Pistons
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
my friend had the best perspective on this. i told him that putting the 20B in the vert will need a turbo diff, and axles and stuff.
he said i'll swap it when i break it.
i think if you drive like a normal human, and not an orangutan, the NA drive train will be totally fine for a long time. his is perfectly fin 7 years later, but that's mostly because the ECU is an E11, and we did have better results with the stock 20B ecu.
he said i'll swap it when i break it.
i think if you drive like a normal human, and not an orangutan, the NA drive train will be totally fine for a long time. his is perfectly fin 7 years later, but that's mostly because the ECU is an E11, and we did have better results with the stock 20B ecu.
Mine has held up for 4 years no problem now. I don't launch the car though, but once rolling I let the hammer down and have not experienced any issues with mine yet. I think it's the SUDDEN application of a LOT of torque that kills them. And my car is pretty similar to RotaryRocket88's. 88 convertible, S4 T2 engine, transmission, NA rear end, V-trim hybrid turbo.
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Well, I could see eventually making 350 HP or so (in an ideal world...) and I would expect it to hold up to a race launch, so I guess a complete drivetrain swap is my only option.
completely agreed, but i'll just tweak this statement a bit by adding "without some other failsafe in place." and what i mean by that is if you plan on basically gorilla-fu-king the bloody thing with maximum traction and a clutch designed to hold a diesel's assault, then you can expect it to shatter in short order.
i've known quite a few guys that have run turbo rotaries (in Gen I cars) in front of stock GSL trannies and rears. i've also known quite a few that blew them to hell with 12As with just exhaust and a Holley.
i've known quite a few guys that have run turbo rotaries (in Gen I cars) in front of stock GSL trannies and rears. i've also known quite a few that blew them to hell with 12As with just exhaust and a Holley.
T04b hybrid vtrim on a 6port engine at 15 psi. Rear end or drive shaft has had no issues. The car has been turbocharged for nearly 3 years now. Now the transmission is a different story haha. Though it may be to my weird mounting position and bad luck.
No, but my FC is in the US and I don't want to have to find one here and ship it, an have to deal with the customs paperwork. The parts themselves might be cheap but it would be a lot of labor to get them off a donor car (there are no pull-a-parts here).
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Exactly. It all depends on how you drive it and what kind of loads it sees.
NA open diffs last forever because one of the wheels just spins.
An LSD, combined with some sticky tires and a shock load (ie. wheel hop) will break it quite easily.
Around 200HP you should be fine for a while. It's torque that kills drivetrains though.
NA open diffs last forever because one of the wheels just spins.

An LSD, combined with some sticky tires and a shock load (ie. wheel hop) will break it quite easily.
Around 200HP you should be fine for a while. It's torque that kills drivetrains though.
I had a n/a drive train on turbo engine and trans worked fine until one day dumped clutch and broke pinion. It was instantly, like everyone said they just can't handle sudden shock. I converted to turbo rear end and drive shaft. Believe it or not I am actually using n/a axles with re milled flange and I drive it pretty hard. Thats 3000 miles ago.
I personally rather have it done to withstand the most abuse possible by using all t2 stuff.
Of course if you can't afford it and/or have other priorities then go ahead and keep the na stuff.
Rotary >Pistons
Of course if you can't afford it and/or have other priorities then go ahead and keep the na stuff.
Rotary >Pistons
I did milling myself, It was supposed to be temporary but turbo ll axles are hard to find. I have just drilled two of the holes out bigger before on n/a axle to get it to bolt up to turbo diff, not my style but it did work. I don't know how long it would last like that tho. If you can find them buy turbo ll axle








