When I have everything turned off, and I check my fuses under the hood my headlights click when I pull the fuse and put it back in, and my retractor fuse is reading 10.1 amps, and my BTN fuse is reading 8.7 amps. Should my headlights do that and what should the readings for my retractors and BTN be?

 

Are you saying that you have a 10A draw on the retractor fuse when everything is off?

Don't think there should be any draw when everything is off. I believe the manual stated something like less than 1A draw when the engine was off, and the key off the ignition.

Measure amp draw at the retractor fuse, and disconnect one retractor (at a time), see if the draw goes away after disconecting the retractor.

 

Here's what I have done, I pulled the positive terminal off my battery, tested my battery and it's at 12.28 volts, I tested all the fuses under the hood with my positive terminal off and running my meter inline from my battery to the cable. Here is how my meter reads starting with all fuses in, then pulled and put back in before next reading.

Base line 12.08 volts with all fuses in.
11.94 volts with BTN fuse pulled
12.08 volts with head lights fuse pulled
12.07 volts with injector fuse pulled
12.06 volts with EGI Comp fuse pulled
The retractor fuse has been removed I just said forget it and leave it out

 

You might have misstyped, but you don't remove the positive terminal of the battery unless you removed the ground terminal first. The following explains the amperage drain test (and on a sidenote, the headlight and BTN fuse supplies constant power to the headlights and retractor motor).

How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain: 9 Steps

 

Ah I went off the wrong terminal, brb gonna go do it off the ground, like in your link

 

And as stated previously, the alternator when it goes bad will create a drain.

 

Just ran the test off the negative, my meter read 1.63 mA with all fuses and while while pulling and putting back in the fuses, the readings didn't fluctuate at all

 

Just unhooked the alt completely, it's still reading 1.63 mA. Gonna start the car next and see what readings I get, if it doesn't go above the 13 volt range, I'd guess it would be my alt.

 

A detail I failed to mention before is when the engine is running and you turn the steering wheel or turn on the efan, the engine will want to die from the added electrical load.

 

^This

You don't have a parasitic drain. Have your alt tested. Couple of years ago, I had the same problem on my sister's FC, AFTER replacing the alternator with one from Advanced Auto Parts. Returned that alternator, purchased a remanufactured one from Mazda, and never had another problem.

 

There is a device on S4 turbos which helps out the engine when the power steering unit is being used so you might want to check that out. Believe it's the air supply valve. Use the advanced search feature and you'll be able to pull up threads related to this valve.

 

Thanks guys, when I get off work today and get to working on the car, I'll let you know what I found.

 

Well it's not my alt, so I assume my battery is towards the end of its life