Trying track battery drain
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
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Trying track battery drain
When I have everything turned off, and I check my fuses under the hood my headlights click when I pull the fuse and put it back in, and my retractor fuse is reading 10.1 amps, and my BTN fuse is reading 8.7 amps. Should my headlights do that and what should the readings for my retractors and BTN be?
Last edited by rx7b13; 03-30-16 at 04:38 PM.
#2
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When I have everything turned off, and I check my fuses under the hood my headlights click when I pull the fuse and put it back in, and my retractor fuse is reading 10.1 amps, and my BTN fuse is reading 8.7 amps. Should my headlights do that and what should the readings for my retractors and BTN be?
Don't think there should be any draw when everything is off. I believe the manual stated something like less than 1A draw when the engine was off, and the key off the ignition.
Measure amp draw at the retractor fuse, and disconnect one retractor (at a time), see if the draw goes away after disconecting the retractor.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Here's what I have done, I pulled the positive terminal off my battery, tested my battery and it's at 12.28 volts, I tested all the fuses under the hood with my positive terminal off and running my meter inline from my battery to the cable. Here is how my meter reads starting with all fuses in, then pulled and put back in before next reading.
Base line 12.08 volts with all fuses in.
11.94 volts with BTN fuse pulled
12.08 volts with head lights fuse pulled
12.07 volts with injector fuse pulled
12.06 volts with EGI Comp fuse pulled
The retractor fuse has been removed I just said forget it and leave it out
Base line 12.08 volts with all fuses in.
11.94 volts with BTN fuse pulled
12.08 volts with head lights fuse pulled
12.07 volts with injector fuse pulled
12.06 volts with EGI Comp fuse pulled
The retractor fuse has been removed I just said forget it and leave it out
#4
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iTrader: (1)
You might have misstyped, but you don't remove the positive terminal of the battery unless you removed the ground terminal first. The following explains the amperage drain test (and on a sidenote, the headlight and BTN fuse supplies constant power to the headlights and retractor motor).
How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain: 9 Steps
How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain: 9 Steps
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Just ran the test off the negative, my meter read 1.63 mA with all fuses and while while pulling and putting back in the fuses, the readings didn't fluctuate at all
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Just unhooked the alt completely, it's still reading 1.63 mA. Gonna start the car next and see what readings I get, if it doesn't go above the 13 volt range, I'd guess it would be my alt.
Last edited by rx7b13; 03-30-16 at 07:09 PM.
#9
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Thread Starter
A detail I failed to mention before is when the engine is running and you turn the steering wheel or turn on the efan, the engine will want to die from the added electrical load.
#10
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iTrader: (14)
You might have misstyped, but you don't remove the positive terminal of the battery unless you removed the ground terminal first. The following explains the amperage drain test (and on a sidenote, the headlight and BTN fuse supplies constant power to the headlights and retractor motor).
How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain: 9 Steps
How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain: 9 Steps
You don't have a parasitic drain. Have your alt tested. Couple of years ago, I had the same problem on my sister's FC, AFTER replacing the alternator with one from Advanced Auto Parts. Returned that alternator, purchased a remanufactured one from Mazda, and never had another problem.
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