What the ****? Is it somewhere else on an '88 TII? Because it's not on the harness where it is on my 86, 87, or 91 N/A's...

 

Umm.. ****.. Isnt the TII by the throttle body/oil filler area?

 

I don't know...I have yet to read about it being there...all the write-ups say to use the green plug by the boost sensor.

I'll go look...

 

Are you using the light method or are you trying to use a multimeter to test the resistance at the plug itself?

 

Do it the right way and set it by voltage at the ECU. Takes a few extra minutes to access the ECU but you get a true measure of the TPS setting and you can test its full range. Plus, while you're at the ECU there's all kinds of other things you can test.

 

figured it out and got the light on it. No change...at all...car still runs like ****...

 

That being the right way is open to debate..

 

Don't do it by the light method, I found that out the hard way.

Read the FSM and use the resistance testing method listed in there. You don't need to do it at the ECU, that's needless and will give you false negatives. While testing at the ECU is a good way to tell if you have poor wiring between the TPS and the ECU, it is not a good way to tell if you are setting your TPS correctly.

I compared the test lamp method and the resistance method and found out that even on a good TPS, the lights will occasionally come on at all sorts of crazy voltages, and sometimes not even come on when they're supposed to.

If these things don't work I'd start going over your vacuum system and making sure you don't have any big leaks. Check your seals on the TID and make sure all your hoses are clamped on tight everywhere else. Replace any hard, brittle vacuum lines while you're in there.

 

Yeah, J-Rat, you're right. Actually, what I do is to first set it to 1.0V at the ECU. Then I will attach the test lamps to make sure only one is lit. With my '91 N/A when only one lamp is lit, only 0.9V registers at the ECU. Car runs fine.