Rotaryrockstar

Okay gentlemen.... I promise after I finish this job I will compile a beautiful master thread with diagrams, links and pictures so that none of you, and no one else will ever have to answer these questions again. This project applies to an S4 Turbo.
My project started off as just the cleaning of the Injectors and it mutated into the removal of the Vacuum Rack/Metal Spider, Air Conrol Valve, Airpump, Cats, EGR Valve, Charcoal Canister, Coldstart Assist, Most of the solenoids, Metering Oil Pump, and the Purge Control Valve (aka Postive Crankcase Ventilator).
My overall goal is to do this type of project without sacrificing any of the stock feeling driving elements, even the controversial ones.
The things I will be deliberatly keeping are the, BAC valve, Fuel Pressure Regulator Soleniod (orange?), Twin-Scroll Solenoid (Green?) and I will be replacing the PCV system with a JAZ Catchcan system.

My overall goal as an FC enthusiast is to not just perform the modifcations but to understand everything that I am doing and to have a proper motive for doing it.
Someone I knew once told me that the difference between a Greasemonkey and a Mechanic is that the Mechanic understands How and WHY things do what they do, while a Greasemonkey just goes through the motions.
Now down to bussiness.


There have been some threads talking about vacuum sources before and after throttle plates. What is the signifigance of this? What is the air process in all the manifolds? At what point in the intake system does the air pressure change from vacuum to boost?

Now for the Fuel Pressure Regulator...
vacrack2.jpg shows the FPR.
It seems that one vacuum line runs from the nipple just below the Subzero Start Valve to the orange solenoid and then to the nipple on the end of the pressure regulator of the 2ndary fuel rail. This, I think I have down.

Now the PCV. In this diagram it shows that the PCV has two lines running out of the bottom? One goes to the nipple on the engine block, and the other two go to the bottom two nipples on the front on the UIM. I am not sure but I only remember there being one line on top and one line on the bottom of my PCV. How will this relate to my catch can? I know I will have to mount it somewhere in there. I have learned that one line will go to the nipple on the block (I assume this one vents the pressure from inside the case) and one will go to...
Wait, I just checked an old thread on this, they said that you run one line from the oil filler neck and the other to a source that doesn't read boost. Does this sound correct? Ifso, then what does the nipple on the block do? Do I just cap that one off? On this diagram the nipple on the oil neck is part of the whole checkvalve and charcoal canister system.
Also shown here is a (dark green) line that seems to run in-between the 2ndary fuel injector area and then into the top nipple on the back of the UIM. The Subzero start valve is there correct? What line is this?
Then, what to do with the nipple in-between the Oil injector BLOCKOFF bolts mounted in the LIM? It is the pinkish line. And the Vacuum spider has been removed so I just block the bottom nipple of the back of the UIM (this one is also a lil larger) correct?
I think that covers this picture.


vacrack1.jpg
This one shows the two bottom lines on the front of the UIM as capped off. These lines previously in vacrack2 went to the PCV. Now the top line is not capped as per vacrack2 and this line runs to god knows what?
This pic also shows the Check valve on the turbo inlet duct as plugged. Now that I do not have a charcoal canister anymore this should be plugged right? Or is that even the correct realationship?
Now the switching actuator connects to the twin-scroll solenoid (green) correct? Then to a check valve (the stock one I still have), then to what? Another vacuum source?
The "Do not Remove" section only applies if you are keeping to MOP correct?
The three way line that connects the Air Bypass Valve and the (BAC??) and the pressure sensor has a "Tee" in it? Is this something to get at your local autopart store? Plus... What is a restrictor pill?

Phew!
Anyway... I know this is a lot. But like I said, I will compile the coolest and most comprehensive resource for this project when I am done!
If any of you can find a way to actually answer some none or all of the questions I will be eternally grateful!
Thank you so much to all thus far for you help and now for this last push to the finishline!

NZConvertible

You can only have vacuum after the throttle. Those things fed from in front of the throttle just need an air supply, not vacuum.
Correct. Make sure you orientate the solenoid the correct way (as per that pic).
Run two ~1/4" hoses from the nipples on the eninge and filler neck to the catch can. Job done.
That's the secondary injector air bleed. This is one of the lines fed air from in front of the throttles. Actually air is sucked through it from the manifold where the injector sits. This injected air improves fuel atomisation, and should be kept.
That's the primary injector air bleed, and should be kept for the same reason as above.
Yep.
Follow the red arrows! I did that drawing, and I thought is was pretty clear...
It's plugged because otherwise you'd have a big vac leak (since the check vlave and hose are gone).
Yes it connects to a vac source. Follow the red arrows! Again, make sure you orientate the solenoid and check valve the correct way (as per that pic) or it won't work.
It applies to the oil nozzle air bleed and the fuel injector air bleeds. If you remove the OMP then cap that nipple only.
The line connects to the manifold, not the BAC valve. The nipple is below and just behind the BAC valve. Any autoparts store should have vac tees. The restrictor pill is a small plastic restrictor pushed down into the stock pressure sensor line (it's factory installed). It stops pressure spikes from hitting the pressure sensor, which can trigger early fuel cut. If you replace the lines, make sure you remove the pill from the old line and insert it into the new one.

Hope that helps.

Rotaryrockstar

Excellent! This definatly gives me plenty to chew on! I am sure I will have a couple more questions about this area later today! So stay tuned! Thank you NZ! And hey! Your "click for pics" link didn't work for me! I wanna see the "NZConvertible"!

Rotaryrockstar

Ahhh... The arrow "out" on the check valve off the switching actuator goes to the "in" arrow of the top nipple in front on the UIM!!??
Does the secondary injector air bleed run from one of nipple on the Subzero Start valve?

Rotaryrockstar

anyone please!? I am stuck here...

Rotaryrockstar

Aha! I don't have a 2ndary air bleed socket because I have a Series four!!!
I'll have more questions later!

Rotaryrockstar

Nothing quite like conflicting info is there!? On my car the middle nipple on the back of the UIM is the one that is slightly larger than the others. This is different than the pic above. This nipple is supposed to be from the OMP Spider. So where do I connect the primary injecter air bleed? HELP! And if I have this right... I am blocking both nipple that are coming from the Subzero Start valve. I cannot find a secondary air bleed nipple. Just the nipple that will be used for the FPR.
Is this right?
Thanx!

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

lol My diagram is helping some one!!! Yay me

Rotaryrockstar

Yeah, I thought there would be two people out there who would feel special from this!
Anyway! Can someone please answer my question two posts above this one!?

Rotaryrockstar

Can someone confirm this for me? Three posts up!
Thanx!

ilike2eatricers

I have an s5 turbo. The larger nipple on the back of the UIM is in the middle and is for the omp spider. I believe the primary injector air bleed is the smaller nipple below the nipple for the vac spider and connects to the nipple that is lower and inbetween 2 nipples on the (intermediate housing). The nipple above the vac spider is for the secondary injector air bleed. I am pretty sure of this but my UIM is back on the car so I can't say for 100%. I just did this within the last week.

NZConvertible

All my photos seem to has disappeared with the new software. Unless someone can tell me where they've gone I'll try to upload them again soon.
Bingo!
No, the subzero valve has nothing to do with anything shown on the vac drawings.
Yeah, the pic from the FSM isn't quite right. If you have only three nipples on the back of the UIM (and no secondary injector air bleed), then the big one is for the oil nozzles, the little one above is for the primary injector air bleed and the little one below is for the double throttle system (not shown on the above drawings).

Rotaryrockstar

Thank you NZ! I'll fix the double throttle vac line and maybe that'll help my car start! And move the primary air bleed from the bottom nipple to the top one in the back.

HAILERS

Sorry to burst your balloon......but both my series four have.....4 (four) nipples on the back of the throttle body. Only the very bottom one pulls vacuum and it goes to the double throttle diaphram.

EDIT: Ooops. Forgot, Add my spare intake manifold to the two mentioned above.

Double Edit: Also, in the schematic with the blue colored box......on all three of my turboII manifolds, I DO NOT have a nipple for the secondary injector bleeds. In your picture it has a oval shape on the manifold. That oval shaped fitting does not exist on three out of three of my manifolds and it appears it does not exixt on others considering what was written in a post above where they confused it with the sub zero start parts. Frankly speaking, the secondary injectors do not need a air bleed. Take a look in a secondary air bleed and the intake ports and I think you can see why.

HAILERS

The primary one can go to any of the above, just not the very bottom one.

Rotaryrockstar

Okay... Primary air to top nipple... Block larger MOP middle nipple... TB to bottom nipple..
All on back of UIM.
PS. orange soleniod. When hooked up exactly like the pic, fluid was coming out of the breather head on it. Might have been fuel... I freaked, assumed I hooked it up wrong and switched the connections to the solenoid. Car will hasnt started yet... Any ideas?
After I correct the Vac lines later today, If it won't start I was gonna try to ATF start it.
Thanx Hailers!

HAILERS

The above I wrote was about a SERIES FOUR, not series five.

In place of the oval shaped fitting on my manifolds, exists a plug with a allen fitting/head in it. I think rotaryrockstar has the same type/configured manifold.

So my advice to rotaryrockstar, concerning the secondary air bleed........is that it ain't thar so don't do a thing. It does not exist. You might confirm to me that you have a allen plug in that location. That would be of some help in understanding the conflicting thoughts about the manifolds.

Also, rotaryrockstar, does your manifold have four nipples on the back of it or the three? I notice on all three of the turboii manifolds I have, have four nipples. One of which on each manifold came with a black cap on it.

HAILERS

A jpg of the GOOD series four intake manifold can be found ..here.. http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=32281

Husemoller

Whats going on daniel? you get the car running yet? sorry i havnt talked to you latly, i been really busy. Also I feel you are calling me a greesemonkey daniel. ahah

But I kind of got a little question after reading this topic too if someone could answer for me. and sorry to hijack the thread for a short period :P

But I was under the assumption that i could just dump the solanoids for the twin scroll and FPR and still have them work with just rerouting the vac lines?

HAILERS

A dark image of the four nipples are found ...here..... http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=32282

HAILERS

The vacuum hose for the fpr can be run directly from the angled nipple to the FPR. By angled nipple see the first jpg I attached. You lose nothing by doing so. The FPR solenoid only works during the hot starts. Hot starts in MN???
99.999 percent of the time the fpr solenoid directs maifold vacuum to the FPR. RARELY does it close off and direct ambient pressure to the FPR. Only on a hot day in hell (TX).

Actually, thinking about it, maybe I should go read the fsm about that. Something in my pumkin head says the solenoid closes off vacuum for the first fifty seconds on any start. Still it's not closed (open to ambient pressure) for 99.99999999999 percent of the time.

The twin scroll solenoid.......if you do not port vacuum thru the solenoid to the twin scroll actuator, then the twin scroll actuator will be spring loaded to the wide open position 100 percent of the time....just like it is on a functional engine when you exceed 2800 rpm. You do lose performance on how fast the turbo spools up when you do not use the twin scroll solenoid.

To remove the vacuum from the solenoid is "MOD" in the wrong direction.

Husemoller

Oh alright I understand now. Makes sense now. Yah it is nice up here in northern minnesota. dont have to worry about the hot weather. nice to see the temps down pretty low up here :P. it really does suck though when the weather really starts dropping, you see a pretty nice boost creep.

Rotaryrockstar

Here is the pic of the back of my TB/UIM.
And! I hooked up my FPR solenoid according to the diagram again and pressurized the fuel system and this time nothing came out!? I dunno what that was before... I smelled fuel somewhere by the engine I thought, and the solenoid was leaking something, but when I smelled it, it just seems... Wet? I dunno, I did spray my whole vac rac lightly with carbcleaner (It was disgusting, I didn't even wanna touch it with gloves on!) some may have gotten into the solenoid. But, wouldn't it evaporate in there? That was like a week ago...
Hmm dunno... Anyway... I am gonna hook everything up now with my new info and try it again. If it doesn't start I am gonna give it some ATF in there, because with all the cranking I did yesterday I would think that I have flooded it...


P.s. Hailers I do have the wierd Allen wrench plughole thing... Whadya spose dats fur?

I is frum Houston so I can talk like dat y'all!

HAILERS

The allen plug probably is plugging the passage that NZCONVERTIBLE has on his car. The passage that goes to his secondary injector bleeds.

The FPR should not leak fuel ever. If your car has ever been in a fire it would be possible the fpr diaphram is clogged/busted.

I doubt vacuum lines arrangement would keep a car from starting. When starting the car...the fpr is regulating to approx 35/37 psi. Only after the car starts will the rail pressure come down to the 28/32 psi range. I doubt it's a player in your no start car.

It's probably flooded. Pull the lower plugs out and spin the engine over and see if the lower plug wires are sparking to the chassis (lay 'em near the left strut tower bolts or something similar). If you have spark, and fuel is seen coming out the plug holes in a mist....then it's probably flooded.

By the way, a large vac leak....like the brake booster line being off at the rear of the intake manifold, could cause hard start/no start conditions.

So make sure you have spark and fuel and try some oil in the plug holes to build some compression.

I often wonder.......folk who blame vacuum leaks on start problems...why don't they just plug/cap off the nipples on the throttle body to eliminate any possible vac leak??? I'm not recommending that though. Just wondered. It should not be required.

When the plugs are out, spin the engine over while you put a finger on one open plug hole then the other. They should feel similar. If one shows/feels quite different....like no compression trying to blow the finger off.......could be a real bad problem....apex seal etc.

Rotaryrockstar

Stupid question I know... How do you spin the engine over? Just with turning the ignition?
Also I drove it into the garage it has run very strong, If it's blown... It's the end of the world... So prepare yourselves! lol