Alright, the AWS is an absolute pain in my car. If you start the car in gear, it will rev up to 3k then quickly back down to around 1.5k or so like it is supposed to. However, as soon as I hit the gas it goes back to doing it. It is rather annoying when shifting to have it rev like that in neutral between switching gears.

I've also unplugged this:


*Thanks to Twofer for this pic*

I just unplugged this, started it up with the car in gear, and the AWS continued.

The car is an 87 Turbo II.

I will keep searching, but if anybody knows exactly what is wrong and keeping the system going I would really appreciate it.

 

im pretty sure that the thing you unplugged is the thermostat on your radiator.....

 

you unplugged the water thermosensor, when its unplugged the ecu thinks the car is cold, and a turns off the emissions system and b WILL AWS MORE.

if you want to disable the aws, ideally you should put a restictor in the hose, and leave it plugged in. the ecu does seem to add some extra fuel during the aws time.

 

Well, since I saw no difference at all in the sensor being plugged in compared to when I had it unplugged, is there a possibility that the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced?

A lot of times if I'm at a point where I will be stopped and it is cold outside, say at a railroad crossing while a train is going by, if a few minutes go by, it will start the AWS. It won't start up at 3k obviously, but usually between 1.5k-2k.

 

are you sure your TPS is in spec?

 

Pull the plug off the Air Bypass Solenoid valve and see if you still have the problem.

If the problem continues, then pull the plug off the BAC. The car will not idle as well but see if the problem goes away if you do that. That might give you a clue as to if it's AWS related or not.

About that switch on the bottom of the radiator. All it does when it warms up over 60 degrees, connect one wire on the connecto to the other. One of the wires is going directly to ground. So when the switch makes, a ground is put on the OTHER wire which goes to the ECU.

So to see if the switch is good or not, get a meter and put a meter lead on each pin of the water temp switch. IF the water is warm or hot you should see continuity on the meter. If you don't see continuity the the switch is bad. Make sure the water is over 60 degrees when you do that. Just warm the engine up where it registers on the water temp gauge to prove the water is over 60 degrees.

Or get a piece of wire an put a permanent jumper wire b/t the sockets in the plug and that accomplishes the same thing as the switch working when it's over 60 degrees.

 

I will have to try that this weekend, as I have work here fairly soon and don't want to get too involved with anything at the moment. Anybody else have any other ideas?

 

clean your engine

 

That's not my engine bay in the picture.

 

Ripping out the AWS solenoid valve (aka air bypass valve) does seem the obvious solution...

 

Stab the gas pedal after you start the car, or just start it in neutral. That's what I've been doing through 3 RX-7s.

EDIT:nevermind. pwned by reading comprehension.

 

Actually you have to start in gear...

Also, ripping off the AWS solenoid and plugging all the AWS vacuum nipples does NUTZING (Simpsons reference), because the BAC still knocks it up to 3K for a few seconds.

 

I probably wouldn't mind it one bit it rev'ed to 3k for a few seconds, then dropped to around 1.5k like it's supposed to. But having it go down from 3k to 1.5k in a matter of minutes is another thing.

 

The sensor you unplugged is part of the sub-zero starting system. It is not the water thermsensor, that is located on the back of the waterpump housing. The AWS and BAC are not the same. The AWS is attached to the intake manifold, on the drivers side right near the oil filter, it will have a white "T" shaped plug, just disconnect it.

 

Not so at all.

In his picture is the WATER TEMP SWITCH and it has zippity doo dah to anything with the sub-zero system.

The water temperature switch is used to detect temps b/t 59 and 66.2 degrees F, whereupon it closes or *makes* a circuit to the ECU. It puts a ground on pin 1H of the ECU.

That switch works in conjunction with the RELIEF solenoid and is emissions related and ALSO related to the BAC or Bypass Air Control System.

All you have to do is look in the FUEL section of the 87FSM to confirm the above. It's as I described and has always been as I described above.

On cold startups, if the water temp is above 60 degrees, the BAC in conjunction with the Air Bypass Valve, cause a high initial idle speed of approx 3000 rpm for 17seconds. After 17seconds the Air Bypass Solenoid Valve drops out, which in turn lets the rpms drop down and be controlled by the BAC and the water thermo wax device.

I don't recognize the AWS when talking about a series four car. It just causes confusion if viewing the series four FSM. Ain't a gonna find no darn AWS there, although its the same as the Air Bypass Solenoid. Same animal.

On the whole I suspect it is NOT the *AWS* causing his problem.

 

the thermowax in the engine bay with the lead pipe!

possible causes: low coolant, plugged water hoses, bad thermowax, bad thermostat....

and blue tII: RTFM man!