When it rains it gets wet. So what? A little water in the intake is fine, think of it as free water injection. Unless you drive through several feet of standing water and fully submerge the intake there will be no damage.

Getting air from the base of the windshield is good. http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=05-27000 There's an example of one, it apparently works quite well.

 

Here's what I did.., I don't know if i'd go so far as to call it Ram Air,..
but it seems to work good.

Remove the washer bottle.

Cut a 3" hole where the washer bottle neck was.

Hook a 3" dryer air duct hose or simular, from the Brake Air Duct to the 3" hole.

Make a TID from a 45 deg. mandrel bent 3" pipe, so the cone filter hovers right over the ducted 3" hole.
(or you could run a 90 deg bend and put the filter through to the underside. but i'd be more worried about water that way.)

Next make a box around your filter to keep the cold air in,.. Alumium, fibreglass.. whatever.

Get a rear window washer bottle,.. Make a bracket and install it at the firewall.
run some wires to the harnes plug for the original washer bottle.
Can't remember what color wires to connect to.
The only downside to this is the autowasher feature dosn't work anymore.. you'll have to hold the button down for as long as you want to spray washer fluid.

I seem to get plenty of cold air like this,.. but I am from Alaska!
I havn't had any problems with water creeping up the duct when it's raining.

I have the ducting divided at the brake air duct so that it still gets airflow.

 

I was trying to avoid using lots of piping(and removing the washer bottle), the less the air has to travel through a pipe the more effiecient is what i figure.

 

But what i am mainly trying to accomplish is something better than stock. Now this may not be the best way but as long as there is a noticable improvement, i'm happy.

 

Ya know..working from this. If you have a TMIC still...


You could make a FULL duct from the front grill. I'm talking..huge. You could use all, or any amount, of the front grill. Get a big "intake" type thing, and run piping up thru the windshield washer hole. Its in a very high pressure zone, if not the highest on the vehicle, and would practically negate the need for a filter if enough mesh is used to cover the opening. Think...MASSIVE surface area.


Come to think of it, this could be used along with an FMIC too. Route it up through a seperate hole, or just enlarge the FMIC hole and add insulation. Massive surface area Anyone?

 

my TID is 8" from the turbo to the AFM.
and i'm using about a foot and a half of dryer duct to route the air into the box.
it's not alot of piping, and my air comes from a high pressure area.

 

oh yeah BTW im running an s4 n/a, not turbo (yet).

What is that black cylinder shaped canister under the headlight, is it important, if not could i remove it and put the air filter there. That way i could retain my washer bottle, which i'm not ready to part with.

 

You did say you didn't want to "argue" about what's better or not.... and I see a few people have already sort of broken that ..... but here's my two pennies.

I understand the whole thing about not wanting to remove the windsheild fluid reservoir. But when it all comes down to it, from what I've seen and heard, the best way to do it is to pipe it down under the pass side fender. Yes, this involves cutting, but cutting that no one will see. You won't have to fabricate any scoop or anything, just piping, and insulation, and I'm sure the reservoir can be relocated. I'm sure they make generic size/shape reservoirs that could be squeezed anywhere, it's just a tank and a pump with hoses, location and distance don't make much of a difference, it's just windex being sprayed on your windsheild. (you could always relocate your battery, then but the tank right there! haha)

That's what I'll do if my cheap, lazy *** ever gets around to making a CAI for my vert.

I don't know anything about your area, but I could imagine a quite-obviously out of place mod might attract the wrong kind of attention.

 

I still have a washer bottle,
The rear window washer bottle from an 88TII, mounted on the firewall, around where the cruise control used to be.

The plastic can under the headlight is silencer for the air pump.
which I forgot to mention I don't have either.
..If you still have Cats, keep the air pump and the silencer.

 

translation = lazy-lights

I think

 

A high pressure area? I really wish that image would just die/go away/never come back.

Folks that think there is no airflow over that area need to stfu.

Honestly, an airplane wing has a high pressure area underneath it. But according to you guys that interpret that image...I bet you would say there is NO airflow over the bottom of an airplane wing eh?

James

 

Does that miata piece work with the seven? i guess it wouldn't since it's bent the wrong way... but that would be a nice idea (anyone going to take up the challenge?).

 

I think it is a good idea,

I would go with a scoop like this, from a z31

 

^^^^\
id just keep that in the woods where it is!

 

you have any pictures of that?
i been meaning to get a CAI for my 6 port turbo

 

There is another front windshield washer bottle. On my car it's on the drivers side, under where the battery goes, above the brake duct, with the neck coming up beside the battery. I have no idea why mine is there and other people's are elsewhere. It doesn't seem to be a Canadian thing, as I've seen posts from other Canadians about having the washer bottle on the passenger side. Anyway, there's an alternative if you can find it.

I highly doubt that the Miata piece would fit an FC, I just posted it as an illustration. One thing that someone might want to try on an NA is to make the intake come straight off the TB (or angled slightly back), into the AFM, then to a filter mounted right at the back in the corner there and then have a cold air box / heat shield and duct to the cowl area under the windshield. If you want a constant supply of cold air, no matter what the headlight's doing, and want pressurised air, then that might be a good plan. I just did the headlight duct because it's easy to do.

 

In seeing the profile of the aerodynamic flow, I saw that some people referenced it with high and low pressure which in some ways i can see, but its just and aerodynamic chart not a high/low pressure chart. Meaning I think its more of Wind Resistance when the car is in motion.

Here is a crued drawing of what i was thinking the profile meant. Let me know what you guys think and if you can follow it.

 

You wanna explain what was wrong with what I said.
Is my intake duct not in a high pressure area?


"Folks that think there is no airflow over that area need to stfu."

...No airflow over what area?, Where did anyone say there's no airflow over the hood?

All I was trying to say, is my setup gets more airflow than a hood vent behind the headlight would..
And you don't have to cut a rice hole in the hood.

 

In principal your setup will be better than the headlight cover option. But having the lights open will block air from being forced in. You will also want quite a big openeing to get enough air in ther to make it worth while. I'd also offset your scoop from the filter, as a wet filter is an inefficient filter, negating all the gains you may be making from having the setup in the first place.

You can do the CAI with the piping down in to the fenderwell without loosing the windshield washer bottle function, and without rigging up one that doesn't look stock. GXL's came with headlight washers and a headlight washer bottle behind the DRIVER's fender. You can use that for the windshield, as it fits like a glove, is OEM and holds more fluid than the windshield bottle. If your car isn't equipped with the headlight sprayers, any scrapper will have the bottle for no more than $5. It's what I did and it works like a charm - day or night, wet or dry:

Look at page 5 for the writeup and all the pics:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=Cold

Most other questions are answered elsewhere in the thread.

 

I don't think the proper looking hood scoop is a rice hole, if it was then the tII hood would not be so desirable. I too have a design for a hood scoop feature, I have a hard time believing that introducing a hood scoop would not alter the aerodynamics of the hood and the front of the car. That picture is most likely a reference of a completely stock NA 7, and I am sure that if you change the flow of the body in some way that airflow would also be changed. If you were to introdue a spoiler on the car in that picture I know for a fact (it may not be a HUGE change) it would change the airflow in the rear of the car. So I think not only would a hood scoop work due to the change in airflow but I think it would change the entire pattern of the aerodynamics, maybe not for the good, but unless someone has a wind tunnel at their disposal no one will ever know.

Also I don't think a hood scoop behind the light would work proper due to the lack of flow at night time, I would put the scoop in that area but I would extend it past the headlight. If you look at the hood there is a spot in just the right place that is long enough to be cut out and extend past the light.

 

I still think my idea would work :\

Fab up an aluminum airbox to make the intake nice and short...high temp coating, insulation, and a nice big hole in the bottom..where my giant super vent air would be coming in! No problems at night, tons of air, no problems with water (like some people say when locating it in the wheel well). The box could be COMPLETELY air tight sealed..no heat from the engine bay at all :-D

 

Here's an idea for you, but it may seem a bit rice or whatnot. You could use the lazy-lights idea to your advantage. Have the lights set so they're always half up, and upon opening them, they're fully opened showing the lazy eyes. It'll be just like Raisin Bran, TWO SCOOPS! Yeah, kinda rice, but if you're going for power, this'd be where it's at, imho. Run piping that connects the scoop to the light with a hinge, yeah not a complete seal, but with that much surge air being forced in, why would that matter? Any hot air would probably be kept out by pressure alone. If thats not good enough, get a flexable piping for it. You'd be getting major air improvements with two 3" X 6" scoops. Everything else(washer bottle, whatever) would be stock, except the headlights.

Any thoughts?

 

I think i'll start with building the box and replacing the stock piping with short ram piping. Since i know a guy who can get me a hood real cheap i'll try the scoop, and if it doesn't work i'll try the piping by the washer bottle.

 

does anybody know where i can get intake piping? Like the prelude kit but JUST the tube. Or just bulk pipe.

 

My thoughts exactly! Thank you!