masao

I own a parts car that has an RB full exaust, headers, presilencer and high flow Y-Pipe, every thing but the cans. I was wondering if I should put that on my car or sell it (its got less than 25,000 closer to 20,000 miles) and use the money to get a true dual all the way exaust. I have heard that the best set up for an n/a FC is to ha 2.5 inch true dual exaust all the way back, and I don't know if I should. Opinions and figures welcome.

TricksTand

just beware with the true dual it is terribly loud

masao

Yeah I know. I was going to look at some borla can that I hear are quiet and still sound reeeally good with a true dual, and apparent youdon't lose any BP either, but I will try my current Magna-Flow cans as they are pretty quiet now...

gxlbiscuit

true dual is terribly loud???? true dual is loud but it is not ricey deafening its a unique tone of its own.. its not quiet.... but you arent going deaf.....

masao

So is the True dual better performance? How much will I be able to get that done for, ballpark? And how much can I expect to get for the Full 2.5 inch RB exaust w/ pos cans (25,000 miles) I know it costs $1700 from RB but I think that includes cans and of course that the price for new, so I don't know what I can even ask.
If I could sell the RB for pretty close to the cost of getting the true dual done, I would do that.

Turbo7MN

Yes, true duals are better for performance. I wouldn't reccomend anything bigger than 2" piping for true duals though. The sound of any exhaust system depends on what mufflers and presilencers you use.

MattMan002

my exhaust is weird but i havce anywhere between 2inchs-3inchs on my exhaust and i dual with the two cans of rs racing a performance shop round where i live but anyways its not horrible loud but i also have a 18inch racving resonator and if im guna be around alot of cops the silencer i have make so u dont even hear my car...i like it

ddub

Remember, true dual = much heavier. What little performance you gain in a true dual over a collected system might be counteracted by the weight difference.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

^^You win the stupid post of the day^^

So your saying that 1 extra presilencer and 8" long piece of 2" od pipe will weigh so much that the extra 5~15hp gain won't matter? (mind you, a full RB collected exhaust still has a Y pipe and two mufflers)

Go with true duals if your trying to extract every little bit of power with just bolt ons. But realistically, since you already have a full collected system, I'd just stay with it and get some quality mufflers (Magnaflow/borla etc) and be done with it.

~Mike............

ddub

Where is you 5-15hp increase PROOF? I have yet to see anyone dyno before and after stock exhaust, collected, true dual. NO ONE has proven it, so your HP claim is nothing but a guess. Does this make you the runner up to stupid post of the day?

Whoever said I was comparing true dual to the RB collected? BOTH ARE HEAVY! Racing Beat has some of the heaviest exhaust systems out there in the aftermarket community, the true dual is just even more so. Compare the RB True Dual to another companies collected system and there will be a bigger difference in weight.

My main issue is that everyone on this stupid board humps RB's leg for their products, overpays for the exhaust systems (RB is expensive), but then is unwilling to prove anything. Give me dyno proof and maybe I'll stop saying the true dual is a waste, until then there is no rhyme or reason to get it other than that a few people THINK it'll provide higher gains.

I realize in this thread he was asking about the RB true dual vs. collected, so maybe I should've endulged in my first post a little more, my bad. But fine, RB true dual is not worth the time and money, especially if you already have the collected system sitting there.

YearsOfDecay

You already got most of the racing beat system, buy their cans and be done with it... you won't be dissapointed.

Tru Duals.... Better.. Not on an otherwise stock car... IE no motor porting, ect.

Ask Racing beat.. they'll tell ya that a true dual system is pretty retarded for a street car because in order to maximized the potential of the exhaust system, you've have to have modified the car to the point where its not practical to drive it on the street (ie a dedicated race car).

I'm with dDub... Until some jackass takes his STOCK Car to a dyno gets some numbers, then switches to a Racing beat DP/PS/Catback and gets more numbers, and THEN switches to a true dual and gets MORE numbers.... ALL THIS WITHOUT doing anything else to the motor in between..... Ya'll can bite my *** about true duals bing so much better.

masao

Yeah, I get th epoint. My car isotherwise stock, but as soon as I get a second car, and week now I will be pulling out ge engine and street porting it with my friend, and going to megasquirt, so I would prefer to spend a little more now and have a little better flowing (with teh true dual) for when I am ported and pushing a lot of air and fuel in there. I don't know. This decision doesn't need to be made today. I will have decided within the week and will either be listing them in the FS thread or be adding Full RB exaust to my sig.

And I already have really nice Magna-Flow cans on my current stock exaust, so I would give the pos cans to my friend and throw the Magnas on the RB.

snub disphenoid

If you don't care about sound, but care about HP and weight, do a combination of both. take a true dual header and fab up true dual piping up until some point after the rear axle, then merge them into a single muffler. E-prod guys have been using this setup for ages, and it is the best all around setup. You could throw in a dual in/out muffler in the middle to quiet things down.

Kingbob

True dual is a waste of time. Ever heard of exhaust scavanging? yeah, it doesn't happen very well when you run uncollected pipes. Ever thought of why V8's have h-pipes and x-pipes?

Running true dual effectively kills your low end torque (and we don't have much to start with anyway). If you say that what you lose in the low end you gain back (or more) at the top, then why don't all the ITA/ITS guys run true dual? Other than start up one doesn't often drop bellow 4k rpms on a road course anyway. So why not run true dual and add more power to the top? It doesn't, that's why. There is no noticable (if any) flow benefit from running true dual, and your missing out on the exhaust scavaging which has very much to do with the engine's powerband.

Go out and look at the exhuast on some ITA/ITS cars.

(addition, I wrote this earlier today and then my internet died so forgive me if the topic diverged into something completely different)

Turbo7MN

In the past I have seen some very interesting arguments on this topic. I really wish someone would actually do dyno comparisons to see if there really is a performance benefit for one or the other. I know that I have seen some really good arguments in favor of the duals, just do a search. I am personally putting together a custom true dual system right now (just waiting on some parts to get here) because I do think that the duals have the advantage (just my opinion) but I think the full RB system is way overpriced.

Not exactly. I have talked to many people that run/have run true duals and I have gathered that there is little to no power loss in the low end, and mid to high end had significant gains. I have not personally seen dyno results to verify this however. I think that if you run the proper sized piping (No more than 2" unless heavily ported) you won't lose any low end.

-Darren

snub disphenoid

Ever wonder why true duals have been shown to produce more power on LS1 powered cars? I had true duals on my RX-7, and they worked fine for my supercharged application, but I think they simply flow too much for a stock port RX-7. When I switched to true duals on my supercharged car, the powerband changed from a mid-range monster to a very much top-end power delivery. True duals would be a good choice for a car with ridiculous porting, like a bridge or possibly a P-port, and that's generally what they're recommended for. If you're going to have stock to mildly agressive ports and not a ton of other mods, I wouldn't recommend them.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Heavier then stock?

snub disphenoid

About the same weight, but a good single setup will save you 40 lbs. or so. If your car is making anything less than 200rwhp, no need for true duals.

ddub

I was referring to true dual versus a collected system with lighter components than RB, but apparently it's about the same as stock according to snub, even worse