Triangulated Strut Tower Brace questions....
06-04-04, 01:24 PM
#26
Silverrotor, I will be mounting the fd alternator I got from you this Sunday after I get it back from the polisher. I'm glad to know someone already got it to fit with the Mazdatrix tri brace as this is the combo I have. I'll post some pics for you early next week. Just got Higgi's pulley today...
Originally posted by fcfdfan
...OF COURSE NOW I AM AFRAID TO TORQUE DOWN THAT ALTERNATOR SINCE I MAY BUST OFF THAT DOWEL EAR!
...OF COURSE NOW I AM AFRAID TO TORQUE DOWN THAT ALTERNATOR SINCE I MAY BUST OFF THAT DOWEL EAR!
06-06-04, 05:18 PM
#28
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scathcart, I agree with your logical remarks about torque. RX-Heven might agree with some points, but not publicly.
I'm just thinking through some babble...
If we want to support the tension bolts in their role of holding the rotor stack parallel and in column, we'll want to brace every hard housing. The rear is slightly braced from the transmission mounts, the intermediate plate is held at the engine mount, and the front end floats and wobbles. I think both a rear and front brace are needed if we really aim to reduce twist between rotors, engine and driveline, and engine and chassis.
Anyway, look at these fine braces:
http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=397
I'm just thinking through some babble...
If we want to support the tension bolts in their role of holding the rotor stack parallel and in column, we'll want to brace every hard housing. The rear is slightly braced from the transmission mounts, the intermediate plate is held at the engine mount, and the front end floats and wobbles. I think both a rear and front brace are needed if we really aim to reduce twist between rotors, engine and driveline, and engine and chassis.
Anyway, look at these fine braces:
http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=397
06-06-04, 08:21 PM
#30
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I have the CP brace. I painted it to match my car. I had to move the MAP sensor and trim the fan, drill some holes, move the fuse box and trim the front corners of the brace to clear the hood. Since my car is pretty custom I didn't mind doing all that. The front of the car is very stiff and it never seems to flex now that I have the brace installed. I paid something like $70 for my brace on E-Bay a year ago. Overall I like it. But the car needs some tweaking to get it in and clearing everything.
06-06-04, 11:25 PM
#31
Originally posted by jhillyer
scathcart, I agree with your logical remarks about torque. RX-Heven might agree with some points, but not publicly.
scathcart, I agree with your logical remarks about torque. RX-Heven might agree with some points, but not publicly.
His whole argument is based on the fact that the mounting point of a torque brace affects the likelihood or not of causing a dowell to fail. This is simply not true. His references to Racing Beat and Mazda engineering development are also wrong. I could have picked his posts apart more than I did but I thought my point was clearly made and supported enough...apparently not for some.
If you really want to eliminate the possibility of a dowell failure, forget extra dowells, go dry sump with a 3/4" billet aluminum anti-shear plate like on my 20b
06-07-04, 12:17 AM
#33
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Originally posted by RX-Heven
06-07-04, 10:11 PM
#34
Originally posted by fcfdfan
MY GOD THAT HAS TO BE THE BIGGEST 20B IN THE UNIVERSE! I MEAN LOOK AT THAT! IT'S GOT TO BE WHAT, THREE, MAYBE FOUR TIMES AS BIG AS THAT BLUE TRASH CAN UNDERNEATH IT! AND THAT ANTI-GRAVITY PLATE UNDERNEATH WHICH ALLOWS IT TO LEVITATE IS SIMPLY AMAZING!
MY GOD THAT HAS TO BE THE BIGGEST 20B IN THE UNIVERSE! I MEAN LOOK AT THAT! IT'S GOT TO BE WHAT, THREE, MAYBE FOUR TIMES AS BIG AS THAT BLUE TRASH CAN UNDERNEATH IT! AND THAT ANTI-GRAVITY PLATE UNDERNEATH WHICH ALLOWS IT TO LEVITATE IS SIMPLY AMAZING!
