Transmission stalling/jerking after fully warmed.
07-25-11, 05:56 PM
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Transmission stalling/jerking after fully warmed.
After about 40 minutes of driving, my transmission starts to stall a little bit when shifting. It is very noticeable from first to second, and not as bad from second to third. Shifting, the car jerks as if the transmission is trying to catch up. The transmission shifts smoothly for the first 30-35 minutes. It does it when the transmission is all heated up and has been driven for about 40 minutes, as stated above. I use 80w90 heavy duty gear oil by Lucas Oil. I've noticed a lot of people run 75w90... Is this maybe my problem? Or is the transmission going to ****??
The mileage on the transmission is unknown. It came with my J-spec engine.
The mileage on the transmission is unknown. It came with my J-spec engine.
07-26-11, 05:42 PM
#2
... stall?
If that's an automatic, then get that gear lube out of it NOW!!
If not, then WTF do you mean by stall?
On a side note, I saw a post by RotaryRocket88 that had to do with clutch chattering/shudder after it's warmed up. He found that his clutch chattered when hot because of his master & slave cylinders. I had a similar issue with my NA clutch, and it was due to a bad pressure plate. If that's what you mean by stall, then I'd get a clutch kit and a new master and slave cylinder. Should run around a couple hundred bucks, but it'll get rid of all doubt... and aggravation.
If that's an automatic, then get that gear lube out of it NOW!!
If not, then WTF do you mean by stall?
On a side note, I saw a post by RotaryRocket88 that had to do with clutch chattering/shudder after it's warmed up. He found that his clutch chattered when hot because of his master & slave cylinders. I had a similar issue with my NA clutch, and it was due to a bad pressure plate. If that's what you mean by stall, then I'd get a clutch kit and a new master and slave cylinder. Should run around a couple hundred bucks, but it'll get rid of all doubt... and aggravation.
07-27-11, 11:36 AM
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Forgot to mention quite a bit. lol - It is a manual transmission, I've properly installed new ACT Prolite flywheel (counterweight installed), ACT HD pressure plate, ACT SS performance disc, and new clutch master cylinder. (slave cylinder in great working order.)
What I mean by "stall" is that... When I push the clutch in, shift up to second gear, release the clutch, press the gas a little bit, the transmission then jerks until it is 'caught-up' and drives smoothly.
This does not happen before the engine is fully warmed. This process is very smooth, up until after the car is a full operating temperature.
What I mean by "stall" is that... When I push the clutch in, shift up to second gear, release the clutch, press the gas a little bit, the transmission then jerks until it is 'caught-up' and drives smoothly.
This does not happen before the engine is fully warmed. This process is very smooth, up until after the car is a full operating temperature.
07-27-11, 03:42 PM
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The way it feels... it definitely seems like a transmission problem. I feel like the transmission is getting super hot and having difficulties switching from gear to gear... I may try using a different gear oil.
07-27-11, 03:58 PM
#6
....
That's not going to help you. The transmission doesn't shift when you release the clutch. You select the gear, engage the clutch. That's is. There are sets of gears inside the transmission. Nothing to slip or stall in there. Only gears. There's an input shaft which has one gear on it. That's what the clutch actually rides on. It's halfway in/out of the transmission case. The countershaft is driven by the input shaft. It's a SOLID piece of metal that's been machined to have a bunch of gear teeth on it. The main shaft is a long rod that is driven by the counter shaft. It has a bunch of gears that can free-wheel on it, but only when not selected by your shifter. When you shift into gear, a rod pushes a fork, which LOCKS that gear to the main shaft. The rest of the gears free-wheel and do nothing. The clutch drives the input shaft, which drives the countershaft, which drives the main shaft through that locked on gear out to the drive shaft, to the differential to the wheels. NOTHING slips or stalls inside the gearbox. If it's taking time to "catch up", it's in the clutch, or the hydraulics are sticking and not letting the clutch engage as fast as your foot will let it.
That's not going to help you. The transmission doesn't shift when you release the clutch. You select the gear, engage the clutch. That's is. There are sets of gears inside the transmission. Nothing to slip or stall in there. Only gears. There's an input shaft which has one gear on it. That's what the clutch actually rides on. It's halfway in/out of the transmission case. The countershaft is driven by the input shaft. It's a SOLID piece of metal that's been machined to have a bunch of gear teeth on it. The main shaft is a long rod that is driven by the counter shaft. It has a bunch of gears that can free-wheel on it, but only when not selected by your shifter. When you shift into gear, a rod pushes a fork, which LOCKS that gear to the main shaft. The rest of the gears free-wheel and do nothing. The clutch drives the input shaft, which drives the countershaft, which drives the main shaft through that locked on gear out to the drive shaft, to the differential to the wheels. NOTHING slips or stalls inside the gearbox. If it's taking time to "catch up", it's in the clutch, or the hydraulics are sticking and not letting the clutch engage as fast as your foot will let it.
07-28-11, 04:11 AM
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You need to check your clutch fork pivot point.
It is common old ones to break with higher pressure-pressure plates.
I had the exact same feeling and as it turns out the little pivot point for the fork was broken, and the clutch was slipping before fully engaging.
Did you feel/ hear any pops or snaps after the new clutch and pp were in?
It is common old ones to break with higher pressure-pressure plates.
I had the exact same feeling and as it turns out the little pivot point for the fork was broken, and the clutch was slipping before fully engaging.
Did you feel/ hear any pops or snaps after the new clutch and pp were in?
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07-29-11, 01:03 AM
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I've not noticed any pops or snaps. You know something... I have been noticing a bit more of a "chatter" like AGreen had mentioned. I need to get this figured out.
That seems like exactly what is happening. What did you do to fix it?? (Clutch fork pivot point?)
That seems like exactly what is happening. What did you do to fix it?? (Clutch fork pivot point?)
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