vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Recent JDM Tii swap into a 90 vert. All S5. All rebuilt from bare iron. Pineapple port. Still using the NA emissions system. RX7.com downpipe and Bonez cat with a Corksport 3" catback (which is fricken LOUD!)

Car idled really well yesterday once we did the timing and TPS. But since we didn't have the air pump to cat connection made nor the under tray we didnt drive it.

When we started it today the car wouldn't idle this afternoon. It would just die. All we did was take the slack out of the throttle cable when we rerouted it so it made more sense (still dont have a clear picture of how that thing is supposed to be routed. I also swapped in the new Mazdatrix plug wires with anti-seize and dielectric grease and new plugs.

The timing is right on (mostly, more in a sec)

Checked the throttle cable slack. They dont say if the 1-3mm is side to side like a belt or front to back. But there is a bit of slack.

Putting in the ISC (the single green plug near the battery and grounded it to the chassis. Nothing happens.

To get the car to not die at idle, I backed the Air Adjust Screw so far out that it was sticking out a little. As there is supposed to be some blind cap in there, this is obviously wrong.

We tried driving the car and it wont accelerate from idle. Press on the gas and it bogs. Feather it and it will go.

Plugging and unplugging the ISC has ZERO effect.

After our little run around the block, I put the car-powered timing light on all the leads (near the coil which I know is wrong) and all of them except T2 lit up their respective marks perfectly. T2 flashed but the marks were no where to be seen. The ISC was not in at the time of the check.

The oil pressure and water temp were good the whole time.

One other thing that struck me as odd. When we first fired the engine up (with it pulsing) there was no smoke; and I was expecting a lot of smoke. Tonight, we got some blue smoke at startup. Dont know if it means anything, but it makes me uncomfortable. I figure that we worked much of the assembly lube and 2-stroke I squirted in the rotor housings when I was solving the no oil pressure problem.

I figure we'll start marching through the resistance tests on the BAC and what-not tomorrow. Any other ideas? Again, one step forward, two steps back.

Thanks,

Jim

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

This morning I:

1) moved the Air Adjust Screw back in about half way. It was sticking out a bit from last night.

2) pulled and reconnected both ends of the Mazdatrix plug wire on T2. No effect. Car dies if you let it idle and if you press the accelerator to keep it at 2k it has a light surge.

3) Then I put the original NGK on T2 (we'd replaced the plug wires 18 months ago). Still wont idle.

4) Pulled the new plug and put in the spark plug that was in there day before yesterday when it ran well. Still wont idle.

5) Backed the Air Adjust Screw out to where it was last night. Still won't idle.

I was alone so I couldn't put the timing light on T2 since the car would die.

RETed

You techically cannot shoot T2.
The left-side mark on the pulley is only for T1.
T2 will shoot 180-degrees away, and the marks will end up on the bottom of the pulley.


-Ted

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Ted. I was reading F2 and on F2-10 it says "Trailing: ignite individually" so I was coming to that conclusion.

On the other hand, CRAP! I thought I was on to something.

RETed

I think you should start a new thread just to make the subject more appropriate...

Okay, it sounds like you're trying to get a new rebuild running?
1) Check the TPS
2) If this is a new rebuilt, adjust the throttle stop screw instead of the BAC valve - get the idle above 1,000RPM for now
3) Optional, if this is a new rebuild, advance the timing a little to get it to go a little easier

It sounds like there's an intake leak somewhere.
If the BAC valve doesn't affect the idle like that, it's most likely an intake leak.


-Ted