TPS WOes
10-24-02, 10:03 PM
#1
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TPS WOes
Hi all,
I've read lots of TPS write ups, but not too many for the '89-91. I'd like
to use a multimeter to check for the voltage. I actually checked the
resistance of the TPS, but I couldn't find anything except for one pairing!
Does this mean my TPS is bad? I checked the green 3 prong check plug. I get
voltage around 9 on the on pair and 0.07 on the other! I do some adjusting
but usually nothing happens.
Do you think the spring is just sticky? It's dark and cold now, so I can't
experiment.
My symptoms:
After car warms up, I have a hunting idle from 500-1000. When it lopes down,
the lights flicker and stuff. Not good. Also, when I give it gas, and let it
drop, it will give a slight surge around 1,000 RPM.
If I unplug the TPS, the engine light comes on and the idle "stabalizes"
around 1000 RPM. If I unplug the BAC plug, the car will stall (while engine
is running). I'm in the process of replacing all my vacuum hoses, and I'm
75% percent done. None have "cured" the bad idle.
I've read TPS adjustments using 2 multimeters, 1 multimeters, test lights.
What's good? Thanks, Thanh
I've read lots of TPS write ups, but not too many for the '89-91. I'd like
to use a multimeter to check for the voltage. I actually checked the
resistance of the TPS, but I couldn't find anything except for one pairing!
Does this mean my TPS is bad? I checked the green 3 prong check plug. I get
voltage around 9 on the on pair and 0.07 on the other! I do some adjusting
but usually nothing happens.
Do you think the spring is just sticky? It's dark and cold now, so I can't
experiment.
My symptoms:
After car warms up, I have a hunting idle from 500-1000. When it lopes down,
the lights flicker and stuff. Not good. Also, when I give it gas, and let it
drop, it will give a slight surge around 1,000 RPM.
If I unplug the TPS, the engine light comes on and the idle "stabalizes"
around 1000 RPM. If I unplug the BAC plug, the car will stall (while engine
is running). I'm in the process of replacing all my vacuum hoses, and I'm
75% percent done. None have "cured" the bad idle.
I've read TPS adjustments using 2 multimeters, 1 multimeters, test lights.
What's good? Thanks, Thanh
10-24-02, 10:15 PM
#2
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i had a bad TPS once...and Josepi had a really good write up on it that he sent me (he also had his go bad the same time as mine)...write him a PM...maybe he could send it to ya if he still has it. good luck!
10-25-02, 08:09 AM
#3
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Erik if you still have it that'd be a good thing...i've searched all through my posts and PMs and haven't found a damned thing...
For the S5, you only need one multimeter. When doing so, make sure that the - post of the meter is at a secure ground and verify by testing the + post on the battery (should net ~12.4).
On the TPS connector, harness side, you should be able to insert the probes of the meter into the connector. after the motor is warmed up and the ignition key is set to on (but not start, just so that the idiot lights are on and the motor itself is off).
Ah hell...i'll just type some more...this has nothing to do with any green connector...
Steps:
1. Warm engine to norm operating temp.
2. Turn off engine, leaving idiot lights on.
3. Remove 4 bolts and loosen 4 clamps to remove the IC.
4. Locate the TPS and harness, leave it plugged in.
5. Find a good ground (you should know how to do that by now).
6. Verify grounds (MAKE SURE THAT THE METER IS SET TO DCv).
7. Now it's time to figure out what wire in the harness is the data line for the low range sensor. Think of it like this.
There are 6 wires in the harness for 2 sensors. That means that there are 3 wires for each sensors (you did pass 2nd grade math right?
). Out of those wires, 2 are 5v power lines for the sensor (find those first to knock them out of the picture) 2 are data lines (what the sensor reads being passed back to the ECU**these will vary in voltage**but they will be nowhere near 5v hopefully) and lastly, 2 are grounds (which will show up a 0v).
8. Now you should have located the two data lines. Label them with a small tear of masking tape for future reference (or if you have to set it again because you didn't find everything fast enough because the car cooled slightly...). One of the wires will lead you to the narrow range sensor (also the foremost sensor aka towards the front of the car).
9. That wire should should show a voltage that varies as you move the throttle cable around slightly, or push on the sensor itself (the moving part!).
10. If it is more than .05v off from 1.00v, use a screwdriver and a 8mm (I think) wrench to adjust the throttle position and get as close to 1.00v as possible (I managed a 1.02v).
11. Reset the ECU.
12. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Granted I just pulled all this from memory and it's early in the morning. If I have left something out or said something horribly wrong, someone post it. Also, if you feel like your being rushed because you think that the engine will cool off slightly while you hunt down these wires, you can disable the fast idle and thermowax prior to setting it.
Enjoy your day,
Joe
For the S5, you only need one multimeter. When doing so, make sure that the - post of the meter is at a secure ground and verify by testing the + post on the battery (should net ~12.4).
On the TPS connector, harness side, you should be able to insert the probes of the meter into the connector. after the motor is warmed up and the ignition key is set to on (but not start, just so that the idiot lights are on and the motor itself is off).
Ah hell...i'll just type some more...this has nothing to do with any green connector...
Steps:
1. Warm engine to norm operating temp.
2. Turn off engine, leaving idiot lights on.
3. Remove 4 bolts and loosen 4 clamps to remove the IC.
4. Locate the TPS and harness, leave it plugged in.
5. Find a good ground (you should know how to do that by now).
6. Verify grounds (MAKE SURE THAT THE METER IS SET TO DCv).
7. Now it's time to figure out what wire in the harness is the data line for the low range sensor. Think of it like this.
There are 6 wires in the harness for 2 sensors. That means that there are 3 wires for each sensors (you did pass 2nd grade math right?
). Out of those wires, 2 are 5v power lines for the sensor (find those first to knock them out of the picture) 2 are data lines (what the sensor reads being passed back to the ECU**these will vary in voltage**but they will be nowhere near 5v hopefully) and lastly, 2 are grounds (which will show up a 0v).8. Now you should have located the two data lines. Label them with a small tear of masking tape for future reference (or if you have to set it again because you didn't find everything fast enough because the car cooled slightly...). One of the wires will lead you to the narrow range sensor (also the foremost sensor aka towards the front of the car).
9. That wire should should show a voltage that varies as you move the throttle cable around slightly, or push on the sensor itself (the moving part!).
10. If it is more than .05v off from 1.00v, use a screwdriver and a 8mm (I think) wrench to adjust the throttle position and get as close to 1.00v as possible (I managed a 1.02v).
11. Reset the ECU.
12. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Granted I just pulled all this from memory and it's early in the morning. If I have left something out or said something horribly wrong, someone post it. Also, if you feel like your being rushed because you think that the engine will cool off slightly while you hunt down these wires, you can disable the fast idle and thermowax prior to setting it.
Enjoy your day,
Joe
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