i tested my tps with my multimeter and got 1.22 ohm at idel and 12.3 ohm at wot
also .5v at idel 4.06v @wot so is my tps toast? im not getting codes either

fsm says 1ohm idel 5ohm wot so i guess ill have to replace it?

theres a s4 n/a at the junkyard will its tps work or are the turbo tps ones different?


thanks
chris

 

1.22 ohms? Do you mean 1.22 k ohms?

The 12 ohm reading is suspect. You must mean 12k ohms? And you measured it between which pins? There are three on the connector.

 

yeah sorry i meant 1.22k ohms and 12k ohms

fsm says to check terminal a and terminal b page 4B-49

 

Well the twelve K ohms sounds unreasonable.

Non turbo and turbo TPS for series four cars are the same item.

You real sure about the twelve k ohms? I'd double check that out.

The TPS is not supposed to be connected up when you do that check, but you know that.

 

If you are really getting 12k ohms across either of the two pairs of pins per the FSM procedure, the TPS is way out of tolerance. Before you trash it, though, I would be inclined to give it a thorough cleaning with some electronic contact cleaner, and then blow it out with compressed air, and try testing it again. If it still is out of tolerance, you need to replace it, either with a new or junkyard part. If you get a used one, take your multi-meter to the yard and test the one they are going to give you before you agree to take it home.

 

i double checked and yes it is 12kohms
yeah i disconnected the tps per fsm.

i guess ill try clean it up and see what happens

how would a out of Wack tps affect the motor? cause idel to be rough and not smooth cause acell difficult?
what would happen if i tryed to run the engine with it unpluged?
whats a junkyard tps that works worth? 5bucks?


thanks for ya help.

 

Your .5 vdc to 4.06 VOLTS belies it being bad in my honest opinion. Tell you what. Put the meter back on volts dc and slowly open and shut the throttle. If it ranges b/t those figures and does not show *opens* b/t thsoe figures............then I'd use the thing.

Problem is, if the engine is HOT when you did that check, the VOLTAGE at idle should be adjusted using the TPS screw, to one volt dc at IDLE. Not a half volt dc, not the .5 vdc you mentioned.

If the engine is cold, you can simulate a hot engine by using your finger to lift up on the thermowax screw. Located just slightly fwd of the round mushroom shaped throttle damper.

If you were not experencing problems prior to messing with the TPS adjustment, then I'd suggest there's nothing wrong.