HuggyBear

tested my TPS, with 2 x 12V LED's connected in series(positive leads hooked together) as i found on the net.

now when i hook it up and start the car, one light comes on. no matter how much i rotate the screw and change the idle speed it still only has 1 light on. iv tested both LED's and they are fine.

the negative lead hooking in to the left side is the only one lighting up(positive lead being in the top position). the right side doesnt light up at all no matter what. iv tested both leads in the left side and they both light up.

im supposed to see both lights at some point in rotating the screw right?

whats going on? never adjusted TPS before.

roatating does not turn both lights off either. one light is ALWAYS on...

Keith

First, are you doing this on a warmed up engine? The engine must be at operating temperature.
Second, this adjustment you are doing is not testing the TPS, but the ECU's reaction to the TPS. You are actually looking at the Switching Solenoid and Relief Solenoid grounding signals. The theory here is that at the correct setting, the Switching Solenoid will be energized, the relief solenoid will not. It is much easier imho and much more accurate to test the TPS voltage directly. On 86-88 cars, this is the middle wire. On 89-91 cars, this would be the top right wire (toward the firewall). You should measure 1.00 volts there. If it is not adjustable to that value, the TPS is bad. If it does adjust to that value, but your bulbs still don't work right, the ECU has a problem. Don't forget to use a digital meter to measure.

Good luck!

Irv, Keith's dad

HuggyBear

i followed the directions posted here, for using a LKED tester.

http://home.rmci.net/panther/tps.htm

yes the engine was warm. i had just driven it back from a movie.

concerning the LED tester multi-meter options, the page had this to say:

When you use the volt meter method your setting the TPS according to the numbers you see on the volt meter. This gives you a very accurate reading of the signal coming out of the TPS sensor, but it does not tell you what the car sees at the ECU...

The test lamp method uses the signal sent FROM the ECU to the test connector. This method in my own words is more accurate because you are adjusting the TPS according to what the ECU sees and I think the ECU knows more about what the proper signal should be, more than two volt meters. The test lamp method is also the method used in the Mazda factory manual.


all in all im having more difficulty that i know what to do with. ill have to try the multimeter option though since i dont of any other way besides tester and volt-meter...

HAILERS

Mr Huggy Bear. Would you like to buy my test light assy that I bought from Mazdatrix? Only fifteen dollars plus shipping. Rates right up there with fuzzy dice on my list of useful tools. Once I finally figured out what was happening on the tps adjustment I set it using a digital meter on the green with a red stripe wire on my 87's. Adjust to one volt (reference the factory shop manual section 4a or 4b under *control unit*. Also look at the schematic Bb-1 and you'll see the relationship b/t the tps and the switching and relief solenoid, useless if you've removed your acv). The only time I'll ever deviate is if I'm having funky problems, then I'll check to see if there is an open spot in the tps. Again, if anyone wants a fifteen buck deal on a tps checker from Mazdatrix, pm me. Also have a intake manifold for a Holley that fits a sixport 13B engine for a even hundred bucks. Made by Jay-Tech. Also have a Digital Code checker bought from Mazdatrix going for a even hundred and fifty. Check 'dem codes. Its another fuzzy dice job.

HuggyBear

iv got a 90 N/A. how exactly do i set up a volt meter with that greent TPS harness