Kingofl337

I'm trying to confirm if my TPS needs to be replaced. I've had a CEL for both TPS sensors since I put my motor in and it goes out when I touch the gas. S5 tps sensors are being used. After 2hrs of tinkering I'm more frustrated then when I started.

Ok, so first I used my ohm meter to set the narrow range and full range to spec 1.0 ohm and .54. This was a bit of chore because when you touch the screw the damn meter would go nuts. I kinda tested the full range but really didn't pay much attention to it.

Anyways start the car to warm it up and the light test. My idle goes nuts 2500-1500rpm up and down. I run and get my screw driver and start adjusting out the screw until idle is perrfect. Then as it warms up idle gets a little worse readjust the screw. Eventualy the termostat open and I shut it down for the light test.

Light test says I'm dead nuts (new way to adjust tps by sound / idle quality? ) Anyways restart the car and CEL still on. GRRR. Check range with a meter.

Narrow range sensor says 1.1ohms - 2.8ohm and thats what it stops at when fully extended. So, I'm like hmm out of spec.
Full range .59ohms - 2.2ohm and its damned irratic while getting there.
Also out of spec.

But why is my CEL on if the sensors are in spec with the throttle closed? Could it be the A-C and E-F pins out of spec when its closed and seeing I didn't test those its my problem.

Also, after adjustment and checking the lights. My still goes out if I jab the gas.

jprx7

I may be wrong but i thought you had to unhook the battery to clear all the codes stored in the ECU. So even if it's in spec now it still remembers when it wasn't.
Patrick

casio

correct. unhook the battery at least 5 seconds to reset codes.

Narrow Range (A - B): Closed: 0.8-1.2 Kohms --- Full Throttle: 4.0-6.0 Kohms
Full Range (E - D): Closed: 0.6-0.9 Kohms --- Full Throttle: 3.4-5.1 Kohms

1. Disconnect the throttle sensor connector.
looking at the pins, the order is:
E - C - A
F - D - B


4. If both lamps illuminate or if neither does, turn the throttle sensor adjusting screw until one of the lamps illuminates.
a) If both lamps illuminate turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise.
b) If both lamps do not illuminate turn the adjusting screw clockwise.


i have never tested a tps using the light method. i've only done the ohm test and watched voltage on my safc.

Kingofl337

Yeah, I went ahead and did that. You see the car has been running for only a week and I haven't tested to see if there are any shorts in the other electrical systems. So, I unhook the battery everytime I shut the car off. Unless I need power.

So, I'm pretty sure all the codes were cleared durring the 1/2 hr it was off. I'll check again in the morning after the car being off all night. But, I'm 99% sure they will come back.

Also, a side note. If the full range TPS was borked would the car not be spraying oil for the rotors?

casio

if your full range is acting up enough to go into fail safe mode, the result is "throttle valve opening angle signal fixed at 20%." i would venture to say you shouldn't worry about your MOP from this. the MOP is codes 20, 26 (step motor [MOP]), 27, and 37. thats all i see.
its strange that you got a code if its functioning okay. i believe it works like this: if a sensor goes out of range, it throws a code. a code means the ecu can go into fail safe mode for that sensor, but i think it only does this permanently if the sensor is not working at all. if a sensor has a bad spot, or perhaps is unplugged while the car is on for whatever reason, i think it would throw a code. once the sensor is out of its "bad spot" or is plugged back in, i believe the ecu acknowledges that the sensor is fine and resumes reading it (i believe this is the conclusion wayne came to when i asked).
so despite the fact that your tps sensor throws a code, it may only have a bad spot. my sensor hasn't thrown a code, but i found a bad spot using an ohm meter. it never goes out of spec in the bad spot, but the ohms come to a stop, reverse back the other way, then re-resume the proper way. also, i believe its closed volt/ohm reading is off. still, no code.
i advise testing the tps with an ohm meter. if in spec and getting a code, you can also test its volts at the ecu (though this is a pain; i know).

shorts, i believe, are the least common electrical problem. a wire has to not only be exposed, but be exposed and touch something else which would cause a short; either another wire carrying amps or a ground. wires dont tend to lose their protective rubber sleeve. they have to find a bad spot in order for wear to happen. there's also shorts within parts and such; i'm not sure how common this is.

Kingofl337

I did test it with a meter. At idle its in spec. After that things go array. I'll check the ECU. What should I see for voltage on the narrow and full range sensor inputs?

casio

Throttle Sensor Narrow Range (pin 2F): Ign Switch ON (idle position) - approx 1.0v
Ign Switch ON (full open) - 5.0v
Idle - 1.0v
Throttle Sensor Full Range (pin 2G): Ign Switch ON (idle position) - approx 0.8v
Ign Switch ON (full open) - 4.3v
Idle - 0.8v