Can you guys and girls tell me the wire colors for the test connector(green three prong, I believe) used for testing the TPS on an 88 S4 T2? Most of my test connectors have been cut off and insulated. I understand that there are 3 wires to test this and they are near the boost/pressure sensor just foward of the passenger side strut tower, do I have that much right? thanks, stephen.

 

The green three pong tester that, I believe, you're referring to isn't for testing the TPS.

My TPS connector is a 3 prong white connector located about 3 inches from the TPS.

TPS wires are as follows:

---- G/R-----
-- BR/W -- B--

 

Thanks for the reply, but the connector i'm looking to get the wire colors for is(per the pics from the FSM next to the stock air box) located in front of the passenger side strut tower and it's a 3 prong green test connector. You hook up a 2 bulb test rig to it(while the TPS's white 3 prong connector is still mated) and test the tps setting with the key on and the car warm. My connector has been cut off, insulated and put into a wire loom with the rest of the nest in that area for show quality. I would pull the wire colors off the wiring diagrams in FSM but I can't tell which test connector is for testing the tps. thanks, stephen.

 

Finally located it at lunch today. I pinned it out at the ECU and then figured out which check connector it was in the FSM. It's pins 2O and 2P on the ECU. 2O should read 12v with key on or at idle and 2P should read less than 2v for key on or at idle(both should be tested when the car is up to normal temp). If you have both 12v then you need to back off on the TPS adjust screw til you lose the 12v at 2P. If neither has 12v then tighten the TPS adjust screw til 2O gets 12v. And the connector is EM-18 located between the thermostat housing and the base of the oil fill tube. If yours hasn't been cut like mine that would be much easier than getting it at the ECU. The wire colors on the test plug are L/Y, L/R and B/W. The B/W always has 12v with the key on(Main relay power) and the other two are switched by the ECU. Thanks again for the reply, stephen.

 

Ah, the light method. I was thinking you would do it the easy way (Ohm's).

 

When you say ohm's, you talking about the 1K at idle and smooth sweep to 5K at WOT? If so, i've got that part down. I just wanted to check it using the light method to be sure. thanks, stephen.

 

That's what I was referring to. I guess using both wouldn't be a bad idea.