RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

my simple method for adjusting the TPS is as follows:

warm the engine up to operating temp and shut it off but leave the key in the on position
hook up your volt meter to the negative terminal on the battery
hook up the voltmeter positive lead to the green wire off the TPS narrow range sensor by backprobing it
do a full sweep of the throttle slowly while monitoring voltage, it should sweep smoothly without any dips or spikes in voltage
set the TPS voltage to 1 volt with the throttle fully closed with the TPS adjustment screw


the TPS should read 1 volt at idle and sweep smoothly up to ~4.5 volts at 30% throttle.

Eduardo Santos

Do you guys really get exactly 1000 ohms when adjusting the TPS? Or only something close to it?
I'm asking this, because yesterday I tried to adjust the TPS using the method described by Aaron Cake, but I hardly could get exactly 1000 ohms. The only values I could get were something like 0.986 or 0.996 or 1.005 ohms... Is it because I have a very un-steady hand or is it supposed to be like this?

Thank you.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

^OMG, how many times must aaron say it. 1000 ohms. 1.00 is 1 ohm. 0.986 is not even 1 ohm. you need 1000.000 ohms or around there.

its like money. you want $1000.00 NOT $1.00 or $0.89. see what I'm saying? read what they are saying guys.

Brigdh

iTrader: (9)

Uhh, some countries use the period instead of a comma, ie 1.005 is one thousand five ohms, which is actually fairly damn close to the one thousand ohms required. You shouldn't be so quick to jump on his case for using a notation you are not familiar with.

Eduardo, I believe the spec I've seen allows you be plus or minus 50 ohms, so all three values should be acceptable

hkp

iTrader: (2)

easiest way.......







go to haltech tps calibration window, hit calibrate, click for 0 throttle, push pedal to floor, click button again, done.

Eduardo Santos

Yes. I'm glad someone understood me
I was trying to be careful while typing that because I know that here in Europe we present data in a different way from there in the USA, but I guess I got the first 3 sentences right, and then I screwed the last ones... Sorry...
When I wrote «...0.986 or 0.996 or 1.005 ohms...», what I meant was «...986 ohms or 996 ohms or 1005 ohms...»

So you say that +-50ohms is within specs? Well, that's a relief I was beggining to think that I would never get it right because of the quality of my nervous system

Thank you very much for your help


Woot? How do I access that? I forgot to say that my car is completely stock. I guess you need a Haltec CPU to have access to such a thing, right?

hkp

iTrader: (2)

yes

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

I apologize. its just that people were confusing 1k with 1 ohm previously in this thread that were making a mistake. did not know that other countries used a . for a , . carry on.

btw, haltech method ftw. now I need to get one if its that simple.

Brigdh

iTrader: (9)

If you use the haltech method (assuming you have one of their standalone ECUs), I'd double check there are not dead spots and the range is fairly linear. It sounds like it prevents you from having to calibrate, but won't help against dying sensors

hkp

iTrader: (2)

calibrating the tps may be easy but the rest is not, you either no a good tuner, or a good engine builder. tuning on a rotary isnt the easiest, a little detonation at the wrong time and back on the stand. ask me how i know

vicarotor

Trying this on my s5. When its fully warm, Revs go outta wack

Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

Recently did the procedure on my 88 NA that's shoved in my FB. I backprobed the light green wire with my DVOM while the engine was running and adjusted it to 1 volt when fully warmed. Low throttle driveabliity was greatly improved but I had a lope in the idle while it was warming up. I removed the throttle body and found the thermowax linkage was badly corroded and the primary butterfly was maladjusted. I cleaned and lubed the linkage and readjusted the butterfly to the FSM specs. Now the low throttle response is perfect and I picked up 4 miles to the gallon.

TL;DR:
If your TPS tweak doesn't pan out as you hoped, remove your throttle body and check it's functionality and adjustment.

shiznizzletech

Does anyone have a picture of where the TPS adjustment screw is. There are a lot of screws nearby.....

satch

iTrader: (1)

Its encased in a spring and is about one inch long flathead and at the front of the throttle body.

barkz

iTrader: (1)

FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp TPS adjustment for 1986-1988 RX-7 Turbo II models

the interwebz > you

ryan2949

iTrader: (2)

So basically...

I warm up the car.
Then I use the multimeter to measure resistance/ohms?
Then I adjust the screw until I get around 1k ohms?
Go out for a drive and then see if it worked?

Eduardo Santos

Well yes. Except driving is not only to see if it worked, but after driving it go and see if the TPS still is at 1k ohms. If it's not, adjust it again. If it is, leave it be.

monty11ez

I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I just got my TPS adjusted correctly on my S5. I used the 1k ohm method. The narrow range is perfect but the Full range is still a little high. Narrow range at .995k ohm and the full range is at .88k ohm. Is it possible to adjust just the full range? Also I am still having sputtering and backfiring at high RPM; the low RPM problems seem to be better.

monty11ez

Well I might have gotten it. I didn't understand the part in the workshop manual about the green connecter, but I found this helpful site. 2nd Gen TPS Adjustment

Eduardo Santos

Hello monty11ez.

I believe the best method I've found is the one referred on this comment:
TPS adjustment

You can also read this same thread, as there is a lot of information about TPS adjustment.

monty11ez

I don't think that linked correctly. Anyways I got it adjusted according to the factory method now, and I am still having high RPM problems. I am about to start looking elsewhere. Also I think I am going to try disconnecting the battery to see if that helps.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Do you have problems accelerating, cruising or letting off of the throttle or all the above.

monty11ez

I asked a friend, who is going to automotive school, what he thought. He told me that he would ask his teacher, who was the premiere Mazda technician for the east coast for 10 years, about it. His teacher said the backfiring was due to my exhaust leak. That does seem to make sense.

After driving the car today everything seems to be running mostly fine. The idle is better, the cruising speed and deceleration is also much smoother; other than the bucking caused by my bad transmission and motor mounts. Being surprisingly cold today for the south, it even reved up to 3k on start up.

Darkstrobe

[QUOTE=Aaron Cake;2263097]If you need 4 turns of the TPS screw to adjust things "properly", then there's something else seriously wrong.

I had a situation adjusting mine today, (stalled at idle) and the lowest the impedance got before taking out the screw was 1300 and the car would not start, and continued to flood. Any recommendations for checking any other places that can be effecting the start up? Or should I order a new tps?

car is an 88 fc n/a


Thanks

James

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Did you disengage the cold start cam or have the engine fully warmed up?