jeremy

iTrader: (1)

i'm loooking at doing a "mcmaster-carr" torque brace and wanted to ask you guys that have a torque brace, what the rod diameter and length is. trying to keep cost down but not compromise functionality. both the spherical bearings and rod will be aluminum. the only part that will be steel is the bracket to mount it to the firewall.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

anybody. ok nevermind. how do i install altezza taillights?

BDoty311

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

I've never seen that one, but the RB engine brace is pretty tiny (i was suprised) but I hear it works really well and it's only 65 bucks.

-Mike

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

A engine brace and a strut/firewall brace are vastly different. I wouldnt reccomend a engine brace to anyone who drives thier car on the street.
The racingbeat brace without the firewall bars is $184
A MazdaTrix strut/firewall brace is $272.

Fox4Life

iTrader: (4)

why wouldnt you recommend an engine brace to anyone who drives thier car on the steet? what exactly do they do?

Jerry

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

They will transmit every single vibration thru the car, make driving the car un-bearable. It ties your engine in to the body/frame of the car. Imagine if your engine mounts were made of metal only, no rubber and you get an idea of what happens.

Fox4Life

iTrader: (4)

ahhhhh, i see. alright thanks

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

Not entirely true. There are three basic ways of doing this.
First is using a cable/chain of some sort and connecting it to the chassis and engine. Providing enough tesion in the cable/chain will prevent the egine from moving due to torque. NO engine vibrations whatsoever.
Second is to us a rod with a left threaded and end and right threaded end with preferably rod ends screwed in. Very strong, easy to adjust, some engine vibrations are transmitted but not bad.
Third is to use a "shear plate" mounted vert or hori depending on engine. Lots of vibration. With some engines, these plates become the engine mounts also. Really race only. The 787 used two I think, one on top and one on bottom.
I've done the first two and they both work equally well. However, on big HP rotories I think the cable would be best to minimize the risk of cracked dowells.
You can also use solid motor mounts. Rotories run smoother than boinger engines so vibrations generally are not that bad to begin with. Solid mounts should also use additional bracing to minimize the risk to the dowell pins.
My 20b will use a combo of all of these, The oil pan is being replaced with a 3/4" thick aluminum plate (going dry sump) and all the oil pan bolt holes have been enlarged. This is a very effective sheer plate but not one mounted anywhere to the chassis. Will be using soild motor mounts and the additional torque brace (or two) wherever I can fit it.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

well i had 2 ideas. one is a rod. aluminum spherical bearing ends with an aluminum rod. the other is using a gas spring/shock, of course as was mentioned due to vibrations. however i'm leaning towards the rod due to the weight the the other setup would add.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

You must have some torque to warrant this mod!

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

The rod is the simplest and most effective way. If you are to worried about vibrations, you can incorporate some poly bushings into the way it is mounted between engine and chassis. I have never seen the damper method you mentioned and can't imagine it would be worth the trouble. Would look cool though....

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

ha f'n ha


i was thinking of some kind of rubber or polyurethane sheet between the fender and the bracket to smooth out vibration if needed.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

$65 for the RacingBeat one isnt bad at all

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

bu i should be able build mine for under 45.