Nope... Never got anything.

 

Its all in the name of performance... Thats what I always say.

You have pics!

 

Sorry but nobodys name here will let me email them thorugh this board.

 

I've got the pics now. Big port alright.

Hey Von, can I post them?

 

rat@sonicrat.org

 

Yeah just post them please

 

I didn't do this, just hosting. (some people don't read the whole thread)

 

wow........

 

Holy Christ junior.... How did you think that was going last? lol

 

POst the other angle

 

I didnt want it to last. Just enougf to drag it and get some remarkable n/a times. It would have lasted longer if I used solid corner seal.

 

SO should I reuse this houisng with the solid corner seals or not ?

 

I don't think you're going to have much engine life even with solid seals, but I'm sure you may be able to do a little better than 400 miles, and make sure your damn timing isn't off the charts

 

I posted the only two pics you sent.

I have a solution!

JB weld the corner seals in the rotors. hahaha Only I'm dead serious here. Since you don't care about engine life... or your own. (considering the powerband of that engine in relation to flywheel integrity) Make some fast runs and then watch her pop all over again.

Lube up one of the old apex seals with something really good at avoiding bonding with the JB weld and set the corner seal with that as a guide. Should hold together (not seal for ****) and allow you to run the engine for a little while anyways.

 

That is one of the nastiest looking ports I have seen. Ever heard of smooth transitions? Those sharp angles are what killed your seals.

 

that is one ugly port, the guy didnt have the steadiest of hands, huh??

how come i dont see "clearanced rotors, 110 psi OPR, hardened stationaries, and the numerous other mods required to actually use the power that engine would make?" not to mention a scatter shield for when your flywheel explodes at 11,000.

i doubt you would ever get any decent times out of those with your set-up, the powerband would be way out of range for your engine.

you may increase peak hp in your band, but with an 8k rev limiter it would probably have yeilded nothing more than some fantastic burnouts.

Justin

 

I dought it. It doesent matter if its smooth

 

Actually I have a 9k rpm redline I already tested it. An F9 Halteck can take care of that.

The Centerforce Flywheel has a 13,000 rpm limit not 11k

You dont need all that hardend stationary crap to use power...I have friends who rebuild thier own engine with huge streetports , carbs and used apex seals even used water gaskets exc and they go to the street races all the time and hit 11000 rpms on the 52 down here in Sandiego. They beat turbo cars and even out last them.

I swere you guys dont know what your talking about. Were not road racing profesionals or NHRA dragsters. All the stationary hardend **** doesent mean anything when im on the street hitting 10k rpms. If it blows after 20k or more miles I can rebuild another in less then 12 hours complete start to finish.

 

well if you love rebuilding every 600 miles go for it. there's a reason people make engines look pretty.
pretty = clean
clean = not crap

you can keep your figure eight ports, i'll stick to a street port.

 

I can't believe you actually believe this stuff. The factory components will not last if you repeatedly rev that high. They will fail! It's got absolutely nothing to do with using power, it's about being able to use it for a decent length of time. Do you think professional racers spends lots of money on this stuff for the hell of it? You should take the advice of the people here who obviously know a lot more than you do. Do you realise how silly that sounds? It sounds to me that all you want is to brag about how high you can rev. We've yet to see any proof that your engine was still making power that high. Bit late now I guess... You'll be lucky if it lasts 2000 miles.

 

i can rev my honda to 10k with a cast crank!

 

Can't win many street races when your engine doesn't make it through break-in.

 

that's why you gotta shyft mad kwik!

 

Morons. This is my engine. When you drag 1/4 and do experimental stuff you really dont need all the clearancing and balancing ****. How many times will I have to say this...My friends motor with just about the same port is still going strong after 1 year. He constintly hits 12k

NZ Conv whats up ??? How many engines have you rebuilt ? I reved my engine to the limiter for 5 seconds ask nitronick!!! Right after that I took apart the engine and guess what ? clean as a wistle. No chatter , no nothing even with heavy shity S4 rotors and unbalanced S5 flywheel ( OHH NOOOO ) Except for that one corner seal because the port was to big.

So yes rotories will hold up to reving as long as you dont detonate or over heat... Your trying to tell me I cant but I can prove you wrong...You guys sound like a lefties ( political ) unwiling to listen to reason. I already said you dont need that stuff for drag racing. And if the port was smaller up top to not break the corner seal then it would last as long as a stock port engine as long as not raced.

Nobody has an argument here. I know this particular port was to big. I didnt port it. And realize that I dont give a **** if it lasted me less than 10k miles comprende?
And nobody is even knowledgable enoughf to tell me if solid corner seals will work but you can tell me that I cannot rev a rotory and that im stupid for trying to race it or some ****.

Some of you guys are worse than the miata forum members

 

just use the previously said lock tite method. but take it TO ThA MaX! and lock tite everything! then rev it to 12k like you did for that whole 5 sec again, you'll be in the 12s no time.